Buy a Glide or build one????

Guys,

I've decided I'm going to switch to a Glide. Should I buy one already set up, or get a core and build it myself? I see BTE has their bracket PG for $850. It includes the following:

1.76 gear set with 4340 forged output shaft and housing
Steel clutch hib w/5 clutch pack
Rebuilt pump
Two ring servo
BTE bracket brake and valve body
Kevlar lined band
Dyno tested.

http://www.bteracing.com/Detail.asp?sku=BTE001131


Does this sound like a good deal? I've been told it is for the money I'd spend on buying versus building one myself since I have nothing as far as parts right now. To build it myself I'd still have to buy a case or a good core to build up...

What do you think? Is this a good deal for $850??

You can buy the good parts and get the JW book and certainly do it yourself. IMO the experience would be good and if you needed to make repairs etc down the road it would be cheaper and faster than pulling it and sending it out.


You dont need a 4000 dollar PG to handle what your doing, but there are a few areas that need to be addressed.

On the other hand you wont save a lot of money buying a unit already done, I have built a butt load of Ford tranny's from mild to wild, been into a few glides, but the price difference in my case it was cheaper to buy one already done. Now down the road when I upgrade or freshen it up you can bet I'll do it myself.

How confident are you in your mechanical skills?

John,

I think it's a good idea to go with the PG.

Maybe you should state your power level, car setup, etc. so the guys know how much HP and weight that tranny has to support?

Bruce

I'm confident in my mechanical skills. My concern is will I be wasting my time and money on building one versus buying one for $850. I can always fix it myself or swap those guts into another case down the road as the power goes up.

Will it cost me the same or more to build one from scratch? I don't even have a bare case yet, much less a good core to use. I don't need an adapter bell either since I've got a adapter style mid plate...


My car is backhalved with 32x14s, a 514, glide, etc... It'll have between 700-750HP at the crank.

for 850 John I don't think you can go wrong...

Randy

That unit looks good, I'd want a pro brake for safety and a good input shaft.

What safety does a pro brake offer? Is the input shaft easily changed. It s ays it already has a 4340 output shat. Is that good?

As you can tell I know absolutley nothing about transmissions...

pro brake you have to push the t brake button with the shifter reverse to back up, with a bracket brake it will go into reverse without the button pressed.............that and if you run any protree stuff the pro brake is faster.

The input shaft is what I was talking about, i would assume it has one std, also make sure its a turbo spline.

OK, what's the advantage of a turbo spline? I'll have to call them and ask about the input shaft. Does it just slide on out like the Fords if I needed to change it?

They have a pro brake version for $1068.

http://bteracing.com/Detail.asp?sku=BTE001141

turbo spline is stronger and more common.

Make sure it has a deep cast alum pan as well.

The shafts can vary in length as to what planet carrier is used. The better deal would be a ringless, but the pump half has to match the shaft..........I wouldnt sweat that a ring type will be fine and cost less. You can always upgrade it later.

Like Jon said, Good shafts, clutches, planets, pumps, etc., all make for a pretty good race trans. When you finally get to the point where you start using up trannies too quickly, I think the next logical upgrade will be a good aftermarket case. I use Ultracases.....I think maybe Jon does too. My buddies and I found that big power/big tire cars tend to twist the srock case to the point where all the best internals can't save it. That deep cast pan Jon mentioned will help some in the twisting department. Don't race without one.

I'm using a stock case for now, but it will get upgraded here soon.

Got the good guts, damn glad I spent that money wisely lol.

So, does that $850 seem like a good starting point. Think it will last a season or two?

Jon, who is that guy you buy your parts from. Steve something?

I used Oldani, great guy, great service.


Hard to get a hold of sometimes lol.

http://www.oldanimotorsports.20megsfree.com/catalog.html

John,
That dont sound like a bad deal John. For that price though that has to be a stock planet, when you see what just a planet goes for today.
But like Jon said, a Pro brake would be better.
First off,get that book listed in my other thread. Get a view on what theese consist of.
Then shop around. Theese are a VERY simple trans. And you can make your own brake for around $160. You could use the stock 1:76 planet for awhile, but keep a eye on it though.
Alot of people buy units already done and get ripped off alot also. Educate yourself first since there so many varibles out there.
Regards.
Al

John if this is a BTE glide I can bet it is not going to rip you off he is a great trans builder... that is a good deal and can upgrade it later if you need. the stock planet will hold a hell of a lot of power.....Blake is running 5.60's with a stock glide and a brake..... and you know how hard his hooks.....



Randy

Thanks guys. I'm going to call Oldani as well as BTE. Steve has some units priced around the same as BTE.

Al, I'm going to buy that book too. Might as well learn something, LOL!

Jon,
We ran a stock case with a JW bell with the standard Chevy pattern and a mid plate. Stock 1.76 planetaries, pro tree brake, turbo spline, etc. 514 with A heads, single domy, 2600# Fox body,17X33 Goodyears, 5500-6000 launch.Car went 8.45@161 with a 1.20 60'. We broke several inputs but never broke the stock planetaries. Like everyone else is saying, just keep an eye on things and you can upgrade when your budget permits. When we went to dual domys and the 557" we then upgraded to the aftermarket planetaries, and found a way to break those!

Good info Steve, Thanks!
I just talked to Blake on his setup. His is stock, but crossing his fingers, knock on wood.
Sure would be NICE if the stockglide suff was as durable as a C6. A old Ford-matic would be cool. Anyone know how many years those were made? Yeah, Im dreaming...
Regards.
Al

Guy's , I'm like John when it comes to a glide. I know absolutely 0. My glide in Tweety is suppose to have all the good stuff in it already, But how do I know what planetaries, frt/rear shafts, etc. that it has? I do know it has the good pan and no brake.

Buy that book I mentioned, and mentioned, and mentioned....

The better shafts, Vasco steel, etc/ will tend to be more shiny than a stocker. Your planet the same. Plus it will have the the aftermarket bolt/pins in it instead of the peened ones. Buy that book Rick.
You will love it.
BTW, how is Tweety? Get her goin yet?

Fired it today, everything looks and sounds good. Except for Carb leaking at the frt. pump, starter bendix,Etc,etc,etc. Sooz says its not meant for me to mistreat the little fellow(Tweety) w/that big ole engine. But i'm not letting the little bird kick my ass.

Hey, hey, quit hijackin' my thread!!

Just kidding. Just got off the phone with a local guy and bought me a used glide. It's the one out of an old C-10 pickup. He said the internals should be clean, never been under water, etc... I guess it should have the good 1.76 panetary, right? I'll be paying $50 for it so I don't think I can go wrong.

I'm going to Barnes & Noble this week and get them to order the book for me. I'll be picking up the glide this weekend.

It should be. But you never know,till ya know. Pull the input shaft out and measure it.
1:76 will be 12 -7/8" long, 1:82 12-5/8ths long. If the case itself turns out good your happening either way.
Regards.
Al