machining required for block prep

what types of machining are required for a new IDT block?

what types of machining are required for a used block needing bored?

and must I have the rotating assembly on hand?

what exactly is o-ringed and will both blocks require this?

thanks in advance

just wondering the cost of prepping a new block, as opposed to the cost of prepping a used block. the total cost might just warrent the purchase of the IDT

I'm not sure if the IDT is any different than the A460 or not, but, boring to piston size, line hone the mains, check cam tunnel bore dimensions, and make sure of proper deck height. I don't know what the shops in your area are charging for machining, but check with them on their costs for these machining procedures and add it up.

schmitty wrote:I'm not sure if the IDT is any different than the A460 or not, but, boring to piston size, line hone the mains, check cam tunnel bore dimensions, and make sure of proper deck height. I don't know what the shops in your area are charging for machining, but check with them on their costs for these machining procedures and add it up.

What schmitty said, regardless if new or used everything needs to be checked. Obviously the block will need to be bored to your desired piston dimension, but even if it's new, doesn't mean everything will be perfect. That's how it works, not a plug and play deal.

FWIW I had a block bored, honed, hot tanked, new cam bearings and freeze plugs put in for about $300.

As usual, Schmitty is right. EVERYTHING MUST BE CHECKED...as it should be with any high performance/race engine. As for specifics: the main bores are normally slightly tight and should be touched up, with align hone, to your builders preference. Bores are .005/.010 undersize from stated size to allow finish honing for piston clearance. Decks are, usually, good within .002. Cam bores are straight but, on SPORTSMAN blocks with standard bearings MAY be a bit snug, ULTRA and PREMIER blocks are bored for roller cam bearings and normally don't require any rubbing. Lifter bores are at minimum spec.(tight) so may need to be honed to fit YOUR lifters(as lifters vary as much as +/- .0015). This is ALL NORMAL prep for ANY block used for racing. The BEST ADVISE, and, unfortunately, often ignored is: CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE doing any work on a new block. Mistakes can happen and ELIMINATOR will replace any of their blocks found to be "off". To my knowledge this has happened a couple of times and blocks were replaced, at no charge, INCLUDING freight. HOWEVER...If you have already started machining and then find a problem, don't expect them to pay for the machine work. And, as said, CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE doing any machining. There are a very few exceptions.

OldRedFord wrote:FWIW I had a block bored, honed, hot tanked, new cam bearings and freeze plugs put in for about $300.

thanks for the info

chuck stevens wrote:As usual, Schmitty is right. EVERYTHING MUST BE CHECKED...as it should be with any high performance/race engine. As for specifics: the main bores are normally slightly tight and should be touched up, with align hone, to your builders preference. Bores are .005/.010 undersize from stated size to allow finish honing for piston clearance. Decks are, usually, good within .002. Cam bores are straight but, on SPORTSMAN blocks with standard bearings MAY be a bit snug, ULTRA and PREMIER blocks are bored for roller cam bearings and normally don't require any rubbing. Lifter bores are at minimum spec.(tight) so may need to be honed to fit YOUR lifters(as lifters vary as much as +/- .0015). This is ALL NORMAL prep for ANY block used for racing. The BEST ADVISE, and, unfortunately, often ignored is: CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE doing any work on a new block. Mistakes can happen and ELIMINATOR will replace any of their blocks found to be "off". To my knowledge this has happened a couple of times and blocks were replaced, at no charge, INCLUDING freight. HOWEVER...If you have already started machining and then find a problem, don't expect them to pay for the machine work. And, as said, CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE doing any machining. There are a very few exceptions.

learned alot from that thanks

great info Mr. Stevens