HER ASS Isn't ......

..... pumping like an oil well or is she?

Sounded like an attention getting title to me !

First let me write, I've been lazy and have not done my homework related to the topic I post, I just felt like writing this morning and will appreciate advise from you guys.

Now to the topic. My ever serving 1993 Thunderbird of 280000 odometer reading, equipped with one of the most trustworthy engines Ford must have ever produced for the masses, the 3.8 V6! With only a few exceptions, these engines are much like a Timex. The engine in my Thunderbird has and continues to be serviced every 5000 miles. The oil is a 5W20 version. During a recent drive to Nashville in the current 95 degree plus weather, traveling mostly at speeds near 65 MPH (except when I had to accelerate to keep from being ran over) and combining mid-afternoon city driving, as I parked in the parking garage I noticed the engine light flicker! At that time it concerned me briefly and I pondered what could have caused the engine light to flicker. During the drive home and while we were negotiating "rush hour traffic", while stopped in traffic, the tachometer indicating the engine speed near 600 RPM the oil pressure gauge (factory electric) was falling to the low side of the indicator! Now the sweat above my upper lip has arrived! With just a touch of throttle the oil pressure indicator would climb back to the top of "normal range" where it usually remains. This was the first time this action occurred.

Now to the point of my topic.

I haven't checked the engine's health with mechanical instruments. The oil's appearance looked great. The oil pressure sending unit (appearance) and wiring OK. NO noise from the engine and running smooth as ever. The oil pressure gauge however acted in the same manner one morning while driving to work, although the A/C was not in use and the drive was at much less speed and duration. Friday I offered the engine the same opportunity (during normal rural driving) to show me the sign, no thank you says the 3.8!

I don't think there's bearing failure or damage. I don't think the thin oil and 280000 mile crankshaft bearing clearance are the issue but I'm not so confident the oil pressure sending unit is as pleasing. Could the oil pump by-pass valve be leaking?

What do you guys think?

Dave.

It could be the filter, sometimes changing a filter will affect the idle oil pressure.

I would'nt be too concerned Dave,at 280k mi.,those high outside temps,and the normal wear of the oiling system w/engine w/that many miles. Sounds normal to me.

the pinhole in the sender will plug, but that usually manifests itself with low oil pressure cold.

Ide throw a filter at it, and then seriously consider going to the 10w-30 in a high milage oil, as recomended for that engine. She's gettin a little tired.

My sister had a 3.8 that did the same thing the valve seals started coming apart and was covering the pick to the oil pump. I pulled the pan and cleaned it good reinstalled the pan and replaced the oil pump which is a exturnal pump and she put another 50,000 miles on it before saling it.I have a 98 windstar van with the 3.8 it has 243,000 with no problem yet an yes the 3.8 is a good engine as long as yoou don't run them hot.It is like the 4.3 chevy a 350 missing 2 cyclinder the 3.8 ford is almost a 5.0 missing 2 cyclinders.

I might try some thicker oil, maybe 10W40 or something....5W20 seems a bit thin for a high miler. JMHO.

The 3.8's are hard to kill, a buddy had one in a mustang that cooked real bad twice!! Took out the head gasket the first time. It developed a pretty good knock and I told him he should find another engine for it soon!!! He didn't do anything with it and drove it for three more years and finally junked it when the body got too rusty!!

Bill

We had his and her mustangs, 83's hers a red 3.8l, of course some stupid hose leaked or something and being my wife she figured she should drive it home. So the engine had been out of water for miles, made it to the carport, but had siezed on shutdown.

It started the next morning but was apparent it was hurt BAD. Whiped out the flat tappet cam, lifters, killed the head gaskets, so 48 hours later a new cam, lifters, heads pulled, decked and replaced, it was back on the road. Short block took another 5 years of abuse and neglect till she got T boned and totaled it.

Your oil pressure sender is electric, right? I was panic city late one night in my 88 GT in the middle of nowhere, stopped at a Duncan Donuts for a cup of coffee, and as the engine idled down, I noticed ZERO oil pressure! After my initial panic subsided, I checked the oil level, and looked for obvious leaks, everything was okay. I reasoned that since the lifters weren't hammering away, I must have some kind of oil pressure. When I started it up, I had zero oil pressure, but anything above an idle - it seemed fine. The next morning I put a new oil pressure sender in it, and it was fine for the next 100,000 miles! Try a new sender.

Wayne (SAWDOFF) Pearce

Dave,

With all those miles, and with all these 100*+ days,,,,I would change to a higher viscosity oil. Years and years ago, before the multi-viscosity oils, the manufactuers would recommend a heavier weight oil for summer time driving, and then a lighter weight oil for winter time driving. Those recommendations were generally found in the owners manual.

As others have also mentioned, you may want to change the sending unit and filter and see if those items help solve the problem.

Charlie

Gentlemen, a few additional questions of my beloved Ford 3.8. I'm beginning to think the oil pressure issue may be due to bearing wear and the use of thin oil associated with the engine's wear. I noticed for the last two days after driving home from work (25 miles at legal highway speed) when arriving home the oil pressure indicator would hold steady at a 600 RPM idle. Turn the A/C on, move the steering back and forth dropping the RPM another 50 to 100. Now the oil pressure indicator is fluctuating and heading lower. Turn the A/C off, hold the steering steady and the oil pressure indicator climbs upward and remains steady.

Tomorrow morning I plan to install a direct reading oil pressure gauge to assist with identifying the problem. Let's assume for now, the engine's oil pressure is low. Shall I install crankshaft bearings or a high volume oil pump or simply change from 5W20 to 5W30 oil and maybe a new oil filter?

Dave.

10w-30 i.m.o.

280000 miles with 5 w 20 I would be more surprised if the oil light wasn't on.

Give the poor old girl some heavier weight oil and a new filter, she is probably as loose as some of your girl friends

It will be fine

IDT-572 wrote:280000 miles with 5 w 20 I would be more surprised if the oil light wasn't on.

Give the poor old girl some heavier weight oil and a new filter, she is probably as loose as some of your girl friends

It will be fine

X2,the 5w30 was meant for the engine when it was new and had super close clearances. Put some viscosity in that bitch and drive it Davey.

IDT-572 wrote:280000 miles with 5 w 20 I would be more surprised if the oil light wasn't on.

Give the poor old girl some heavier weight oil and a new filter, she is probably as loose as some of your girl friends

It will be fine

Alright now, that's enough about my old girl friends! Now that you mention old girl friends, a bottle of Boone's Farm Strawberry Hill and a fast ride in a '78 Lincoln Town Coupe would loosen them up a bit! ... ...

Dave.

LivermoreDave wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:280000 miles with 5 w 20 I would be more surprised if the oil light wasn't on.

Give the poor old girl some heavier weight oil and a new filter, she is probably as loose as some of your girl friends

It will be fine

Alright now, that's enough about my old girl friends! Now that you mention old girl friends, a bottle of Boone's Farm Strawberry Hill and a fast ride in a '78 Lincoln Town Coupe would loosen them up a bit! ... ...

Dave.

OK guys I've had enough talk of my past romances, so easy on my "old flames"!

I would like to ask another question or two of motor oil and it's abilities.

I've looked at several web sites as to the viscosity rating of motor oil. Most sites agree that the "heavy weight" of a multi-viscosity oil is measured at 210 degrees (F). I did find a couple of sites that informed me that the "W" (winter) was tested between 0 degrees (F) and 30 degrees (F). Another site defined the test temperature for the 10W flow rating at -13 degrees (F). As most of you know (I didn't), the winter (W) rating can change with a given oil as to it's ability to flow at different temperatures between 0 degrees (F) and 30 degrees (F).

Now my question.

Considering the above information applies, if ambient temperatures are well above the "W" test parameters, has the "W" flow properties of a bottle of oil changed? Example; does a bottle of 5W20 motor oil during 100 degree (F) weather, sitting in an engine's oil pan before the days first start-up, have the consistency of water? If so, does a multi-viscosity motor have any value during extreme summer heat or at any temperature above the tested methods?

Just another dummy,
Dave.