Battery cutoff switch

What are you guys using for a batter cutoff switch? The last one I bought was at least 15 years ago and I need to add on to my 56 since I moved the battery to the rear. This is a street car so a removable rod or something would be nice so that I could just install it at the track then remove the rod after leaving the switch in the trunk or where ever.

thanks,

have a flaming river on the fox, on the 69 I used one of the big amp moroso's and mounted it in thr trunk, fabbed my own push pull rod.

richter69 wrote:have a flaming river on the fox, on the 69 I used one of the big amp moroso's and mounted it in thr trunk, fabbed my own push pull rod.

Do they have two or four posts. IIRC the last one I ever installed (quite some time ago) had 2 smaller posts for the alt wire. After researching tonight I see most of them like the Flaming River unit just have two posts. Did you run your alternator charging wire all the way to the rear of the car just to be on the battery side of the switch?


http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74100-74101_instweb.pdf

With an alternator take a look at Cole-Hersee 75912, It has 4 posts. "Most" of the 4 post switches out there are only rated at 20 amps on the alt terminals. This switch can handle 125 amps on the alt terminals.

http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/209/75912/

Just a example....you can get them from many sources:

http://www.elecdirect.com/product/60599c3f-0bac-4c3e-9e52-d9cf612dc147.aspx

You do need to run to run the alt wire all the way to the rear. It can also be done with a relay and tie it into your electrical system at the starter solenoid switch. Kill the power, it switches off the relay and disconnects the alt. But....the special relay needed is rather spendy. IMHO...just run the wire to the back, just makes sure it's routed so it won't rub a hole in the insulation.

You can mount it inside and fab your on push/pull rod. You can drill a hole in the handle to attach a rod end or clevis. My dragster was done this way. I later changed the handle on the switch to a billet piece from the Chassis Shop. It was longer and gave more leverage (since mine was cable operated)
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/66/66449/folders/284733/22773831a.jpg

I could certainly be wrong but, I don't envision an alternator field wire ever using more than 25 amps.

Well, maybe a giant one which runs a stereo and all the other stuff of a street car; a road race car is a different story.

rmcomprandy wrote:I could certainly be wrong but, I don't envision an alternator field wire ever using more than 25 amps.

Well, maybe a giant one which runs a stereo and all the other stuff of a street car; a road race car is a different story.

That's what I was thinking Randy but I guess it would matter if you were running a 1 wire alternator as well. I think David was saying to run the charging wire from the alternator through the smaller terminals?? IDK. lol. With the one wire deal even if you are using a trigger wire to turn on the alternator, once above 2500 rpm they start charging regardless so you would definitely have to switch the charging wire.

Yes, I was talking about a 1 wire alternator and running the large charge wire through the switch.