My 460 build

This build is going in my 77 town car, so it will be primarily driven occassionaly in the summer so not a daily driver.

The engine has 49k miles, doesn't smoke make strange noises and drives well.

As I have to repair the pump seal on the C6 I have decided to de-smog the engine and add some tweaks shall we say.

The short block will remain stock, no need to upgrade this for my driving habits.

The heads are aluminium with these specs;

Intake/Exhaust port volume: 275cc/100cc

Combustion Chamber volume: 95cc

Valve size: 2.19x1.75

Valve Springs: Single with dampner 125lbs closed pressure. Springs will accomadate .640 lift.

Flow figures: 322 cfm @ .600 Intake 195cfm @ .600 on the exhaust

Aluminium rollor rockers, do I need guide plates or hardened pushrods?

The cam is;

DURATION
ADV. @ .050”
IN. EX. IN. EX.
262 268 214 224

VALVE LIFT @ 1.73:1
IN. EX.
.516 .543
LOBE SEP. ANGLE - 112°

Not sure on which 750cfm carb to use. It must have electrice choke and be reliable and easy to run.

I'm SOL in regards to headers for this chassis, I really don't want to spen over $1500.00 for some custom made ones so I'm stuck with the stock manifolds.

HEI distributor will be used as well.




Opinions welcome!



cheers

You wasting your time putting 95cc aluminum heads on it. Your compression will still be only about 7.5ish:1. It will be a pig with the low compression and cam specs your suggesting.

Your be better off getting a set of Early Iron heads (74cc) with small chambers, it will get your compression up to about 9.5:1.

Your going to want a little bit of gear in it too. 3.50:1 is a good compromise.

Suggestion

Early Iron heads (74cc) C8 C9 or D0, Perfromance Valve Job and a little Bowl Blending and Springs to match the cam.
The Cam your thinking is in the range, but id look at something a little different.
Non Retarded Double Roller Timing chain
Edelbrock Performer Intake and 750 3310 type Holley
Get your Distributor recurved.
Good Dual 2 1/2" exhaust
3.50 gears

I want to keep the heads so now pistons are required I suppose. I would like around 9:1 comp ratio.

I also purchased an Edelbrock performer intake, not the RPM as hood clearance is an issue.


I'm not looking for a 1/4 blaster, just a nice cruiser. The heads and intake are an easy way to shave some weight from this 5000 pound car LOL.



cheers

Your going to need to put some Flat top pistions in it then.

and while its apart you might as well put bearings, Oil Pump and everything else....... if the short block is in good shape... it would probably be cheaper to sell the heads and get some small chamber ones.

I'm not suggesting a 1/4 blaster, just a good running street engine...... If your looking to go fast you have all the wrong parts.

I concur with the flat tops,

How about Speed Pro Hypereutectic Coated Pistons,

They claim 9.14:1 compression ratio w/92cc heads, so with my 95cc ones it should be just under 9:1?



cheers

If you're going to tear the short block apart for new pistons and bearings, you will end up boring it .030 over. If you're okay spending $1500 on it, then by all means tear it apart. If you don't like that idea, go with smaller chamber heads as suggested.

Those pistons have a installed height of 10.282", your block deck is probably 10.320ish. That's way down the hole. They're not cheap either, $45 each at Summit? Ouch. You can get forged pistons for not much more.

Lem may still have the ford 521 stroker kit available if you going to tear into the bottom end..... That will wake it up! And they where about $1100, by the time you buy pistons, rings,bearings and recon everything, you'll be dame close.

Lem?

A 521 stroker would be NASTY! Shipping it to Canada would break me though!

I called my local machine shop and they said around 1500 to rebuild the short block .030 over.



cheers

by the way what kind of heads are you using that are aluminum ??

5pointslow wrote:by the way what kind of heads are you using that are aluminum ??

here we go again you know the answer to that one, I think

lol come on i had to ask ...hell someone had to

I was but decided no avoid the hassle

Uh oh

I'm not getting a warm fuzzy.

Got them from e-bay,





cheers

yep Pro Craps





now send them to a dependable machine shop and get them fixed right....

the Coug wrote:yep Pro Craps





now send them to a dependable machine shop and get them fixed right....

So what do they need exactly? I live in a fairly small town with only a few machine shops. What would I have to tell them that I wanted fixed on these?



cheers

Go to the Pro Comp sticky at the top of this page and there is plenty of info there on these heads. Best bet would be to put them back on Ebay and get rid of them, and start over with a decent set of heads. Lem still has the SCJ heads for a decent price and they are a much better head in so many ways.

Just finished reading the sticky, interesting.

I got these heads fairly cheap, like $650.00 for the pair so I don't have too much invested in them yet. My engine is not a race engine by any stretch of the imagination, I just wanted a head that would flow better than stock and be aluminium. If I spend another $500.00 to $700.00 having a machine shop go thru them I will still be ahead. Again, they are a stock replacement head, not building a 500hp bruiser, just a turn key take the wife and kids to the drive-in cruiser.


cheers