545" project confrimation

30 over bore short block, with eagle racing 4.5 stroke assembly all forged 9.5-10:1 compression, custom ground flat tappet 240ish@.50 600 lift, +10 for exhaust@.50, ford racing scj head with valve cut back+blend, weiand stealth with 950cfm holley, 2" headers, 3" exhaust, MSD ignition, 91 octane

4600 lb truck with C6 3000ish converter 4.10 gears, street cruising+commuting 90% racing 10%

What lsa should I run? I going to try for 9.7-9.8:1 static compression

What are some good water and oil pumps for a build like this?

Thanks guys! I know noobs can be annoying

Kaase oil pump....

My engine hoist just arrived today! This weekend will probably end up being my engine pull days.

dfree383 wrote:Kaase oil pump....

X2 I learned the hard way. I ran a duralast HD water pump and had no cooling issues on a 13to1 compression motor on the street. A good radiator and good fans.

That thing will be making stupid torq.

I'd say 110 or a 111 LSA. I built my own cam for my 95 f350 I converted with a carb and a killer top-end. I did a 110LSA and I advanced it 6 degrees. When it hits ir will run like no tomorrow down the highway. My compression is just over 10 to1. Thats me though, mabe a seasoned cam grinder will have some better insight for you.

Lem, Randy, Blake comes to mind for cams.

Bump! Any different reccomendations?

I would probably run it on a 10 and I would also run the stock pump with the pressure raised some.

Its not going to be turning any rpm because of the size of the cam and cubic inch.

The 110 will just help the engine with what it will be good at doing (making torque) If you want to smooth things out down low spread it out wider, but if idle is of no concern keep it on a 110 or lower.

JMHO

georgels wrote:30 over bore short block, with eagle racing 4.5 stroke assembly all forged 9.5-10:1 compression, custom ground flat tappet 240ish@.50 600 lift, +10 for exhaust@.50, ford racing scj head with valve cut back+blend, weiand stealth with 950cfm holley, 2" headers, 3" exhaust, MSD ignition, 91 octane

4600 lb truck with C6 3000ish converter 4.10 gears, street cruising+commuting 90% racing 10%

What lsa should I run? I going to try for 9.7-9.8:1 static compression

What are some good water and oil pumps for a build like this?

Thanks guys! I know noobs can be annoying

Not really enough information.
What RPM range are you looking to get the most power from that camshaft...?
Do you have power brakes that need more than 12/14 inches of vacuum to work correctly...?
12 or 14 degree intake / exhaust difference with those heads and a closed exhaust system on the street would help.

Oops! Sorry, I want my torque peak to be as low as possible. So I can run my converter plenty close to that peak. This is going to be partly a cruiser so I can't build too much heat in the transmission. I got a plenty big enough booster, I believe, if I don't I'll go to an electric vaccuum.
Thanks for the replies guys!

If I bumped up to the P-51 heads, 950 Holley w/ 1" jomar powercone(or do I need bigger?), hydraulic roller cam, and a different manifold, would it still be streetable for 75-100 miles of driving 2 or 3 times a year? Is reliablity going to be risked for that? 80% of those miles would be highway.

Why would you want go from a solid flat tappet to a hydraulic roller?

I meant hydraulic flat tappett because I don't want to be checking and adjusting lash constantly if I'm driving it a lot.

georgels wrote:I meant hydraulic flat tappett because I don't want to be checking and adjusting lash constantly if I'm driving it a lot.

With modern parts your not going to be checking the lash constantly on a milder street flat tappet, thats an old wise tale and cause by using old school factory adjustable rockers.

So reliablitity would be good to go with a solid flat tappett or roller?! AWESOME! thanks again dfree!

georgels wrote:So reliablitity would be good to go with a solid flat tappett or roller?! AWESOME! thanks again dfree!

Not with a roller but I've had good luck with a decent sized solid flat tappet on the street with a ton of street miles. Be careful on break in and run good oil and you won't have problems.

What heads would I use if I wanted to get 700 ft-lbs? My goals aren't very set except for that... Sorry
I really am set on the 545 stroker, dual plane intake, and hydraulic roller cam. I just don't know the cylinder heads to get me to my goal. The horsepower can go wherever it will.

Anybody, I'm looking and the only thing I've found is that longer duration helps torque but I'm unsure of what heads. Help?!?

You can probably get as close to your torque goal as you can with what you have. The SCJ's make as good of torque as any head out there. After you get somewhere between 250 @ .050 and 260 @ .050 you start trading Hp for Torque.

with my 557 with scj head ford racing intake with 1050 dominator flap top diamond piston doug herbert old rollet cam with sonoco 112
791 hp at 6600 rpm and 758 lb torque at 3400

hey 94429mustang what are the complete specs on that herbert cam, id be interested in seeing those

the cam is f6c herbert
dur int 276 at .050
exh 284 at .050
valve lift int and exh .747
cam lobe center 106

i would hav guessed peak torque to hav been closer to 4700 than 3400 with that cam, shows what i know