AFCO K-member with BBF motor mounts

Anyone on this site use AFCO k-member with BBF motor mounts? I am one of 16 that has bought this and would like to talk about the motor mount install. I am the only one that gave feed back to AFCO about the motor mounts.

Can you expand on your experience with these. I'm starting a BBF Fox project and this one of the major decisions I have to make. I'm budgeting for AFCO's new DA struts and compatability makes sense, but not if there are issues. I know I want the crank centerline even with pinion if possible.

I cut the mount brackets off the K member and installed a motor plate. I liked the fit of the k member. If I was doing it again I would buy a drop center K member. I could not get engine low enough with the oil pan resting on the rack I had to use spacers to lower k member/raise body

Get a k-member with as much drop as possible. I went with PA racing with a 2 or 2.5" drop and a Pinto rack. My pan still sits on the rack to get the crank CL in line with the pinion. I'm running a 32x14 slick as well. My trans tunnel is removed as well so that definitely helped in raising the tailshaft. Not sure it would've cleareded that easy with the pinion if the trans tunnel was still in the car...

Does that 2.5" drop typically get the crank centerline close? This will be a small tire car, 325/50 Drag Radial, low but not crazy low due to the street driving it'll see. The k-member question is a bit confusing at this for me as this is my first attempt at building a Fox body.

I had to drop the motor plate and raise the tailshaft to get mine in line. My pan sits right on the rack. That's with the 32" tall tire. You may not have to get as extreme to do so and you may run into trans tunnel clearance issues too. One benefit of lining up the driveline was it tucked the headers up real nice and tight to the body. I mocked up everything with an old set of the 2" BBF swap headers that Dynatech sells. I now have a set of 2.125" Kooks that I'll be mocking up this weekend.

When I ordered the K member I was told Dynatech no longer sells the big block ford swap headers. They had too many problems with them fitting.

Hmm, headers. I run A460 heads so I'm looking at BBC headers. It kills me that there are more choices for those for a Fox than BBF headers, but that may work out for me. Ideally I need 2.25/2.375 step headers with a 4" merge collector. I may build them myself with pre made collectors as customs ones are $$$$$!

Not sure how the A460 headers compare against the BBC headers as far as port location in the chassis, etc...  worth a try though if you have access to a set you can try.

I do remember that I had very little clearance from the tailshaft to the trans tunnel on mine. It was close enough to where the yoke would've hit the floor. I built the car to sit real low so it stuck the pinion up in it real good. if you'll street drive yours you may not have that problem.

I went ahead and bought the AFCO K-member. It's a well made, well thought out piece, it fits perfectly as advertised and the hardware that comes with it is top quality. Using their mounts the 460 is fairly high and very tight to the firewall. With trans attached the mock up block I figured out that the mounts go on after the engine trans combo is close to in place and close to level. With mounts on and with my AOD/Super bell setup the engine was pointed down 3 degrees, or a bit more than an inch at the rear measured from the front and rear china walls. The AOD was very tight to the top of the tunnel but cleared well on both sides.

I wanted a lower location and a bit more passenger side offset so I'm using Keith Fulp Motorsports block plate and mid plate. The block plate is set up specifically with perfectly cut spacers for the older cast-style Danny Bee belt drive I'm running.

I'm using AFCO's fabricated A-arms, Camber/Caster plates and the new AFCO DA struts. All this stuff looks great. We'll see if I can get the car to work well when it's done in 2 months, give or take.