Stock suspension 101 (Yellowhorse step inside please)

bigblok2000ranger wrote:Thanks Tony I really appreciate all the help and sure I will have more questions. Especially once I get to the baseline settings. The housing has adjustable upper and lower control arm brackets and I have no idea how to plot out a four link maybe you can suggest some good reading.

Performance Trends software has really helped me. And just trying new things..

Thanks checked them out I will be purchasing the software. I thinking more and more of going to the new MT radial being as I am starting from scratch. I posted pics of the rear suspension in my build thread over on the other board.

where can i get adjustable rear LCA brackets for my 8.8 housing ?? 1979 fox notch

jc10000rpm wrote:where can i get adjustable rear LCA brackets for my 8.8 housing ??  1979 fox notch

TRZ or Team Z. Would be a good start. There are others but I've used both of those companies with success. Team Z is a sponsor on this site.

my southsides work pretty damn good..........lol

I have double adjustable upper and lowers from Trick chassis he did my rearend with adjustable upper and lower control arm brackets so far and gonna be doing an ARB for me as well.

There are pics of my rearend in this thread;

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164662

Tony I got the scoop on the whole Josh Kryer and Trick Chassis deal, if you want to know the deal just pm me.

Alex is getting into the stock suspension market and the work is good and he is willing to listen.

His number is in my sig

This is some excellent advice so I decided to copy and paste it into this thread for easy reference;

Posted by Yellowhorse 7

I'm gonna make this as simple as possible.....there has to be a starting point and below is how to get there. Make sure the ARB has zero preload to start. that can be addressed later


1. GET THE CAR AT RACE WEIGHT. THIS MEANS RACE WEIGHT, CORRECT TIRE PSI, FUEL, HELMET, GLOVES, ETC.

2. THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS (LCA) SHOULD BE AS CLOSE TO LEVEL AS POSSIBLE, IF NOT POINTING UPHILL TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR EVER SO SLIGHTLY.

3. THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS (UPA) SHOULD BE HIGHER ON THE HOUSING THAN THEY ARE ON THE TORQUE BOX AREA. I SAY AREA BECAUSE SOME HAVE STOCKS MOUNTING POINTS, SOME HAVE S BOXES, SOME HAVE A HODGE PODGE OF SOME HOME MADE HORSESHIT! THE IC LENGTH IS DETERMINED BY WHERE THESE TWO POINTS WOULD INTERSECT SHOULD THERE BE AN IMAGINARY LINE. START WITH THAT LINE INTERSECTING AS CLOSE TO THE CENTER OF GRAVITY AS POSSIBLE, WHICH IS TYPICALLY RIGHT BEHIND THE DRIVER'S SEAT IN A FOXBODY CAR. THIS IS A STARTING POINT.

4. THE TUNING PART CAN NOW TAKE PLACE. RAISING AND LOWERING THE CAR WILL CHANGE IC LENGTH AND HEIGHT, AS WELL AS THE A.S. VALUE OF THE CAR. SHOCK ADJUSTMENT NOW STARTS TO KNOCK ON THE DOOR. SPRING CHOICE, FRONT RIDE HEIGHT, CONVERTOR CHOICE, ETC ALL PLAYS A HUGE PART.

But the above info should get these things down the track. People want a magic number for their cars and they don't exist! My IC is different than Mike's, than Eric's, etc. Test test test......


That'll be $300 dollars please