Can this be welded and machined?

again...much gratitude

I agree...something WAS indeed bugging me about a plan where I was buying heads from one place, block from another, and pulling parts from my existing.

in a perfect world, yes, I would find an engine in tact that I could pull, and have some basic machining/rebuilding done.

budget is lean (as I said, I have kids, they have montessori...;-). I would love to not spend more than $3000 over the ENTIRE project

problem with the junkyard is the time and effort...as I said, kids, travel for work, lack of heavy tools, and lack of technical acumen.

so...I'll keep my eyes out and see if I can find a better deal

now somehow I need to figure out how to pull the block out of MY car

thanks again for helping me nurse this along

zach

wife, kids, demanding job, etc... yes used to have all those accessories so you are preaching to the choir. I also never used them as excuses NOT to do things (Sleep is over rated ) and learned how to do it on a shoe string budget. You have a choice of learning what you don't know and buying some tools or paying someone else. The first comes with a learning curve and some investment, but pays dividends in knowledge and being able to do for one self.

The second can get expensive and if you get ripped off you are SOL. I deal with people who got ripped off from time to time, is pain being the one to clean up someones mess since they spent all there money getting ripped off. Have seen may a car sold off cheap or junked because they already put more money into something they cannot get their money out of. Buyer beware.

How to pull the engine, basic hand tools, pry bar, some penetrating oil, and some cursing. A friend that has pulled an engine before (and put one back in and got it running) can be a help. To lift the engine can use a heavy beam and chain fall, cherry picker, or if you are a country boy the limb of a big old oak tree, a chain, and a come along. Just remember these engines are 700+ lbs so think sturdy.

As far as getting a core engine or a good running engine no need to be pulling anything. There are junk yards that will sell you a good core or a good runner with a warranty. Some will even deliver. Then there is craigslist and ebay. I noted you say you are in the Chicago area.

Here is an engine block with all the machine work done for $350. The work done is more than the asking price.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/ptd/3611523871.html

Here is what looks like a good core engine for $600. He has the pan off so you can check if the bores are std and crank it over to make sure cylinders are not rusted, etc... Pull main and rod cap see what the crank looks like. Can say you will buy it provided you can pull the heads and make sure is no damage like yours. Worse he can say is no. Having cash in hand always helps get an ok. May be able to make an offer and get it for less too. Some of this stuff takes time to sell.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/pts/3635819843.html

Can take that to the machine shop and get it rebuilt. You could also put a want ad on this site and 460ford.com for a rebuilt 460. A little patients may turn up a forum member with a good deal near you. A forum member already offered up a machined block in this thread. You can also talk to one of the builders, Rich AKA Boss 429 comes to mind. Lots of options. Just have to put your mind to it.

Steve

466cj...that's just the kinda boost in confidence I need to take my time, do it right, save some dough, and learn something along the way that I can pass on to my kids

Sincere thanks

The links are really helpful

I will indeed reach out to them and see if we can negotiate a deal

Not sure I fully understand the language of boring (micrometers, piston size, etc)... But I'll bet a few google searches, and a few more conversations will push me along in my comprehension

I heard there was a reknown rebuild shop in Indiana that rebuilds for a higher price, but does so because they do it right and offer a 100,000 mile block warranty.

The napa guys in my town (highland park) seem like they're the real deal...they've got a nice shop, and a good rep with friends and family around town, but I'm just curious if you would reco any other businesses?

Thanks again for encouraging me to do this the right way

Zach

A high quality stock rebuild with a mild cam and some tuning should serve you well IMO.

Just find another DOVE head and a block and have at it.

Might even consider dual exhaust and some gears for it later if it keeps your interest.

Thanks dfree383...

I have dual exhaust (at least I think)...straight pipes running from each head out to back of car...

I'm not sure what you mean by gears...it's an automatic car, so, are saying maybe put in a new transmission as long as the engine is out (I imagine this is an opportune time to do so)?

I HAVE noticed that the transmission 'floats' quite a bit between reverse and first...and also struggle to get from second to third.

Is this what you mean? What gears would you recommend? Sorry so many questions, but the info is frankly invaluable to me.

Zach

If the trans mission is slushy it might be a good idea to freshen it up. And as far as gearing I was referring to the rear end gearing, typical those cars came with 2.75:1 or 3.00:1 gears and upgrading to some 3.50 - 3.91's is typically a dramatic change in acceleration times on those old boats.

Great...very helpful...will look into it. Pep at a green light is always fun for the kids...with the top down they throw their hands up and call it the roller coaster...;-)

What "part" am I looking for...should I be searching for "rear end gears" at ratio specified above. Or is it called something else (gear plate, axel connect, etc)

Thanks

Zach

Ok ok...pep at a green light is fun for me too...:-)

zachduenow wrote:Great...very helpful...will look into it. Pep at a green light is always fun for the kids...with the top down they throw their hands up and call it the roller coaster...;-)

What "part" am I looking for...should I be searching for "rear end gears" at ratio specified above. Or is it called something else (gear plate, axel connect, etc)

Thanks

Zach

do the engine first, don't get to many projects going at once...... Auto ADD is a killer!

Got it...quick google search reveals that the gears you're talking about are in the back...so yes, I can get to those in years to come. I thought that you were trying to find me some efficiencies in working closer to the front as long as the engine is out...sorry for my slow uptake...newb

Thanks again

Zach

I feel like I'm imposing a bit...but curious to hear how you guys react to the idea of me buying this:

http://for-sale.yakaz.com/460-ford-engine-for-sale#lo=4&docid=0004vq6nmcmnj0mq

Seems like it'll fit my needs, fit my car, gimme a new trans (as added bonus), alleviate the need for a new carb/intake

and even though jasper won't carry warranty to my car, at least I know the rebuild was sound

What do you guys think? Good deal?

Many thanks, sincere appreciation


Zach

I don't trust anyones rebuilds. There are too many variables, and unless you take it apart and check everything, you might be throwing your money away. I would buy from a reputable engine builder. It may cost a little more, but at least you know what you have, and if something goes wrong, you have someone to take care of it.

That's an ok deal as long as you feel you can trust the seller. He appears to be willing to run it for you, that's a good thing.

I've got a D1VE 460 .030+ short block on eBay for $300.00. Also have C8,C9,D0,and D3 heads. Could throw them all in the trunk and deliver. NAPA guy can check it out. Cheap way out??

thanks gary!

that doesn't sound half bad. what would you charge for the hole package?

I must admit I'm attracted to the engine in PA which is a near zero mile Mardinly rebuild. It comes with edelbrock intake and carb, starter, pumps, kick down, pan, distributor, and perhaps most importantly - a transmission (mine is a bit soft)

all for $2200 if I can figure out how to fetch it (and I do have a 19' V10 van with no seats, so I could fetch it myself in theory)

I look at that price and it feels pretty good assuming the engine was rebuilt right (he's willing to hook up a radiator and let me run the engine on a stand for as long as I want...which is good)

when I think about buying a block and two heads and starting from scratch with Napa, my mind gets to wondering about cost. I imagine the Napa cost will be about $1500-$2000 to machine and assemble (parts and labor). then I have to buy intake, carb, and all the other needs. and I'm still left with my soft tranny.

so I'm trying to make sense of what the best option is. do you have thoughts? I'm really appreciating all the helpful tips people have been laying out for me...and I genuinely am learning...so thanks for your patience.

zach

I think you are keeping an open mind and looking for alternatives. If you are looking for a pile of parts and you have skills, my stuff is a good, cheap alternative. You have already admitted to limited skills. Sticking to your skill set and honing your expertise in removing and installing an engine and transmission might be better suited with buying a good running engine and tranny. You have recieved several good alternatives but the decision comes down to you because you have to live with it. Good luck!