ANTI-ROLL BAR SIZE FOR MY BACKHALF MUSTANG

FINISHING UP ON MY 598 BUILD FOR MY BACKHALF MUSTANG, HAVE 33-16-15 HOOSIERS ON THE REAR,
I HAD 442 GEAR IN THE BACK, THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR IS 2775 WITH ME IN IT WITH A 4 LINK. THE PROBLEM I HAD WITH MY 557 WAS THAT MY SIXTY FOOT TIMES WERE 1.29 AT THE BEST BUT THE CAR TWISTS BADLY,
TO THE POINT AT ONE TIME I HAD 3 WHEELS OFF THE GROUND!! THE NEW BUILD I INSTALLED 411 GEARS
IN THE BACK TO HELP SOFTEN THE HIT. I THINK THAT MY ANTI-ROLL BAR IS TO SMALL AND IM LOOKING AT
REPLACING IT WITH A LARGER ONE ANY ADVISE?

A bigger OD anti-roll might help as long as it's not really some part of the frame/cage structure that's twisting instead. Does it have a full roll cage structure, or just a roll bar? Also how stiff/rigid is the area of the frame where the anti-roll is mounted to?


Other things to look for are ........


Anti-rolls with bolt-on arms can have bolt holes that get egg-shaped & loosen up over time.

Having the 4-link setup with a super long I/C length can sometimes also increase body roll/increase anti-roll loading.

And sometimes having real steep bottom 4-link bar angles can also make some cars appear to have an anti-roll problem when it's not the anti-roll at fault. This is because the body rolling over is really from the passenger side slick being crushed/collapsed/over wadded too much & driven into the ground too hard from the steeper bar angles.


[Edit] I forgot to mention that using too little air pressure while dead hooking a car with an anti-roll can also be another possible cause of body roll from over wadding the right slick.

THANKYOU FOR YOUR RESPONSE, I HAVE A FULL 12 POINT CAGE, WITH BARS EXTENDED THROUGH THE
FIREWALL AND STRUT TOWERS TO THE FT.. THE REAR BACKHALF IS SQUARE TUBE WHICH WAS PURCHASED THROUGH S&W CAR CAR. ALSO THE REAR IS ATTACHED TO THE FT. WITH SQUARE TUBE. THE 4 LINK
UPPER BAR IS ANGLED DOWN 2 HOLES IN THE FT., AND THE BOTTOM FT., IS LEVEL TO SLIGHTLY UP.
THIS SETUP SEEMED TO ALLOW A LAUNCH WITHOUT A UNMANAGED WHEEL STAND.

If you're sure the frame/cage chassis assembly is rigid enough, and you're not using any wonky 4-link bar angles, then I guess the next thing to look at is the anti-roll's assorted hardware (worn bushings, bent/worn rod-ends, bent/damaged links, bent/damaged chassis or rear housing mounts).

Then try unhooking one link from an arm and try to move that arm up/down to see if there is any slack in the center torsion bar/arms attachment (egg-shaped holes, stripped splines, etc). At this point if you can find a lenght of square tubing that fits over the unhooked arm (and if theres room under the car) you can use it to apply greater rotating force to the arm to see if the center torsion bar assembly it's self is bad (broke, sprung, split, etc, etc). Also check the rear end housing for bent/cracked/twisted axle tubes, or tubes that have pulled loose from the center housing.

If everything seems to check out OK, and you're using one of the lower cost anti-rolls that has a center torsion bar only made of 1" OD solid mild steel, then it just might not be strong enough (or is way too narrow for the car).