How to remove rust from a gas tank?

I have a early Maverick and I want to clean out the rust inside the tank. I have tried the muriatic acid method but didn't like the results...
Anyone try this method? http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=717730
The tank has a vent on top. My vent is not drilled, plugged. Some are open.. I know this was changed at some time. Which one should I use?

Thanks

Can you buy a new tank?

There are a few articles where people installed a 1976 tank in a early 71, 72, 73.. I guess if there is no easy way to clean the crude out of this one, then that's the way I should go. Any thoughts on the vent on top of the tank? Should I install the plugged one or the open one? I guess it depends of the gas cap is vented?

Thx

i'd use the vent.it wont hurt anything to have it and may help when filling the tank.have you checked the price for a new tank? i got one for my 80 bronco for less $$ than the used one.  

I replaced an Econoline tank earlier this year...rusty mess inside. When I added up the cost of the cleaning stuff, the effort, the aggravation and the MARGINAL RESULTS...I bought a new one. 

I agree with Lee. I don't think are too terribly high. 130-160 dollar range I believe.

I have used gravel but wash it good to get all the dirt off it then put it in the tank with dish soap.and hot water and shuck the grap out of it to knock the rust loose. It might take a few times to get all the rust off then put a hose in it and let run for about a hour dump it and blow it out with a air hose. Just a trick I learned back along time ago.

Four bottles of The Works toilet bowl cleaner and a bag of marbles. Rinse thoroughly (about 4-5 times) then coat with WD-40.

I use to take mine to the rad. shop and have them dip it, and then put a sealer from eastwood, eastwood also has the cleaner, its a kit.

A new/good used factory tank is really about the only way to go IMO (or a fuel cell).

Once the galvanized coating inside a steel gas tank is compromised and rust starts to form you really can't ever stop it 100% from forming again. You can remove the rust with any number of various acids, or abrasive methods, but without the galvanized coating on the steel surface the rust will return. And spraying a "rust protectant" inside the tank like WD40 or PB blaster is useless once it's washed away when gas is put back in the tank.

The plastic/epoxy coating deals like from Eastwood can fail too because the inside of the tank has to be absolutely 100% rust free, (every seam, every corner, everything) and coat/attach to every nook 'n cranny inside the tank. If not the rust will return, and as the rust grows the coating will eventually turn loose from the inside of the tank.

That's what happened with the Muriatic acid I used in the last one. Came out spotless but rusted later on around filler area... I have a old Harley Lowrider that I did not want to repaint. So I used the acid and coated with POR.. Did not turn out as well as I expected..

I will just bite the bullet and order up all new parts and make them work. Tired of screwing with it.. As far as the vent on top of the tank, where do you guys route that to? Does it need a check valve?

Thx

call a galvanizing shop, They have tanks of acid for this and regalvanize it.

How about just putting a magnet in the tank. If it is metallic it will stick to the magnet. Drive around a bumpy windy road.remove magnet with crud attached ? Just a thought as that way not much should end up in the pickup tubes.

new tank ftw......