Scat rods/crank limitations

In real world applications, how much power and RPM can the Scat crank and rods handle? What do you guys think would be a good crank and rod set up for a healthy shot on top of a 1000+ hp n/a deal?

The forged cranks will work in applications over 1000hp and plenty of guys are spinning them over 7500. 

But like anything else at this level.and above you need quality machine work, assembly and tuning skills. It's pretty easy to break stuff if you do it wrong.

I have a Scat crank and Eagle 6.8 H beam rods with 2000 bolt upgrade. 1000 hp with a 200 shot on it shifting at 7200.

So far so good.

forged 4.3 scat crank and H beams in my deal, 5.13 8.03 at 3070 pds..... 8000 rpm a time or two.

Im replacing the rods with GRP alum this round but the crank stays.

Imo you can put a pretty decent shot to that and not worry..... its all about the tune.

Larry T's deal has been in the 4's at over 3300 pds iirc


also all the stuff I just pulled out of the DD looks fantastic, it was set up as a na deal but the last 2 seasons its been on the bottle every pass down the track.

SOME people can break anything making little power at all... 

richter69 wrote:forged 4.3 scat crank and H beams in my deal, 5.13 8.03 at 3070 pds..... 8000 rpm a time or two.

Im replacing the rods with GRP alum this round but the crank stays.

Imo you can put a pretty decent shot to that and not worry..... its all about the tune.

Larry T's deal has been in the 4's at over 3300 pds iirc


also all the stuff I just pulled out of the DD looks fantastic, it was set up as a na deal but the last 2 seasons its been on the bottle every pass down the track.

So... what is the deal on the aluminum rods? Why do most not run aluminum on n/a deals but do with nitrous with them being fairly close in price?

richter69 wrote:forged 4.3 scat crank and H beams in my deal, 5.13 8.03 at 3070 pds..... 8000 rpm a time or two.

Im replacing the rods with GRP alum this round but the crank stays.

Imo you can put a pretty decent shot to that and not worry..... its all about the tune.

Larry T's deal has been in the 4's at over 3300 pds iirc


also all the stuff I just pulled out of the DD looks fantastic, it was set up as a na deal but the last 2 seasons its been on the bottle every pass down the track.

Did you change your camshaft once you started spraying it heavy?

same cam, im changing it up a bit though this time around but I plan on laying the dick to it next season.

soupbean wrote:

richter69 wrote:forged 4.3 scat crank and H beams in my deal, 5.13 8.03 at 3070 pds..... 8000 rpm a time or two.

Im replacing the rods with GRP alum this round but the crank stays.

Imo you can put a pretty decent shot to that and not worry..... its all about the tune.

Larry T's deal has been in the 4's at over 3300 pds iirc


also all the stuff I just pulled out of the DD looks fantastic, it was set up as a na deal but the last 2 seasons its been on the bottle every pass down the track.

So... what is the deal on the aluminum rods? Why do most not run aluminum on n/a deals but do with nitrous with them being fairly close in price?

The aluminum rod motor will accelerate faster even n/a, I suspect they are looking for every last bit.

Aluminum rods don't generally have the lifespan of a forged rod, and are more expensive than using offshore forgings. Aluminum rods act as a "shock absorber" when running N2O, and help with bearing life as such.

I've been thinking about this very subject, but more concerned about the rods. I was thinking of the HRC I beams, cost wise between a bit more than a scat H-beam, but a bit less than Oliver deals.

I have never used aluminum rods but I have run a 400 shot on stock rods.

alum rods are easier on the crank with heavy spray/boost....... but they have a shorter lifespan

It's not all about 'how much' but, also how long a part will last at a given rpm/hp level. The Scat hbeam/arp 2000 rods are way better than they have a right to be considering the price. At some point it'd be wise to let some pump gas guy own the rods while they are still in one piece and feed the engine a fresh set of rods.

my scats are going in my pumpgas deal for my 64 f100

richter69 wrote:my scats are going in my pumpgas deal for my 64 f100

Fabio, you are the greenest guy I know. 1st it was green oil and now your are recycling rods  .

Lem Evans wrote:

richter69 wrote:my scats are going in my pumpgas deal for my 64 f100

Fabio, you are the greenest guy I know. 1st it was green oil and now your are recycling rods   .

Nah, just penance for scratching headlights.

Lem Evans wrote:

richter69 wrote:my scats are going in my pumpgas deal for my 64 f100

Fabio, you are the greenest guy I know. 1st it was green oil and now your are recycling rods  .

.....and teeth

Just goes to show you some people can blow anything up. My last motor had a Moldex Billet Crank and Oliver Billet Rods with the bolt upgrade to the 7/16" A1 XTF bolts.
Here's Olivers bolt listing page.

7/16 - oliver/arp std (black bolt)
7/16 - oliver/arp wsb
7/16 - oliver/a1 xtf (extra tough fastener)
7/16 - oliver/arp wsbx (worlds strongest bolt x)
7/16 - oliver/arp ca 625

And I still broke a bolt and junk the motor out .



Dan

With a steel rod and truck pulling rpm..... the c.a. 625 bolt i.m.o.

whats the advantage of the CA625 over the wsbx?

It's the 1st time I've heard of a wsbx . I know nothing of it.

The wsb is made from the ARP2000 alloy.

So with the aluminum rod "life span".... How do we determine when the life of the rod is gone? Other than when it spits out of the pan...

If you can screw in the bolts with fingers, rods are good, if not, they are probably used up. That was some advise I was given a while back from a fellow BBF guy that does the pulling deal. He has had a few sets in nis day.