514 stroker build up

Just pulled my motor out of my truck going to try and get some more power out of the one I have now just to run this season. What parts can I put into it to get at least in the 800+hp range. I'm getting forged internals but not sure what to go with for a cam or if I should go with flat top or reverse domed pistons or what to go with for a cam

Also can't decide on leaving it a 514 or move up to a 557

I'm on a little more of a budget now that I'm just freshening this motor up and trying to get more out of it before I build the big motor this winter

Here is the specs to the motor I have right now....


Has Eagle® H-beam connecting rods M-6200-C514
650 HP @ 6250 RPM
620 ft./lbs. of torque @ 4800 RPM
9.8:1 compression ratio
Sturdy 460 2-bolt main short block( M-6009-D514)
Cast nodular iron 4.300" stroker crank
Ford Racing forged aluminum dished pistons with full floating pins
Mechanical roller lifter camshaft with .647" lift, 254° intake and 258° exhaust duration @ .050" lobe lift
M-6049-SCJB “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads
M-9424-H429 “Victor Jr.” single plane intake manifold with mild porting
1.73:1 ratio aluminum roller rocker arms

remanufactured block .030" overbore
Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads. Jon Kaase port design also with mild porting, Combustion chamber volume is 72cc
Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” valve train includes dual-valve springs, retainers, keepers, seals and premium stainless steel swirl polished valves. Intake valve diameter is 2.20" and exhaust valve diameter is 1.76"
Ford Racing high performance cam. Valve lift is .640" intake and exhaust. Duration at .050" is 254 degrees intake and 258 degrees exhaust
Ford Racing forged aluminum dished pistons M-6108-B514, bore size 4.360"

Currently using a 1050 cfm dominator carb

I am thinking that I want to
bore to 4.440 (.080 over-557 ci)
Get scat crankshaft with 4.500 stroke and new pistons to up the compression ratio
As far as a cam I know what I need to do.

Thank you for your time!

Mudrazer wrote:Just pulled my motor out of my truck going to try and get some more power out of the one I have now just to run this season. What parts can I put into it to get at least in the 800+hp range. I'm getting forged internals but not sure what to go with for a cam or if I should go with flat top or reverse domed pistons or what to go with for a cam

Also can't decide on leaving it a 514 or move up to a 557

I'm on a little more of a budget now that I'm just freshening this motor up and trying to get more out of it before I build the big motor this winter

Here is the specs to the motor I have right now....


Has Eagle® H-beam connecting rods M-6200-C514
650 HP @ 6250 RPM
620 ft./lbs. of torque @ 4800 RPM
9.8:1 compression ratio
Sturdy 460 2-bolt main short block( M-6009-D514)
Cast nodular iron 4.300" stroker crank
Ford Racing forged aluminum dished pistons with full floating pins
Mechanical roller lifter camshaft with .647" lift, 254° intake and 258° exhaust duration @ .050" lobe lift
M-6049-SCJB “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads
M-9424-H429 “Victor Jr.” single plane intake manifold with mild porting
1.73:1 ratio aluminum roller rocker arms

remanufactured block .030" overbore
Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” aluminum cylinder heads. Jon Kaase port design also with mild porting, Combustion chamber volume is 72cc
Ford Racing “Super Cobra Jet” valve train includes dual-valve springs, retainers, keepers, seals and premium stainless steel swirl polished valves. Intake valve diameter is 2.20" and exhaust valve diameter is 1.76"
Ford Racing high performance cam. Valve lift is .640" intake and exhaust. Duration at .050" is 254 degrees intake and 258 degrees exhaust
Ford Racing forged aluminum dished pistons M-6108-B514, bore size 4.360"

Currently using a 1050 cfm dominator carb

I am thinking that I want to
bore to 4.440 (.080 over-557 ci)
Get scat crankshaft with 4.500 stroke and new pistons to up the compression ratio
As far as a cam I know what I need to do.

Thank you for your time!

Sounds just like an FRPP crate motor.
Stay .030" overbore, (or go .040" if you need a cleanup), for added cylinder wall integrity don't go .080" unless you have to - get the compression ratio up near 14/1 and use gasoline to match. - stay under .720" intake valve lift with those heads and get them ported.

rmcomprandy wrote:Sounds just like an FRPP crate motor.
Stay .030" overbore, (or go .040" if you need a cleanup), for added cylinder wall integrity don't go .080" unless you have to - get the compression ratio up near 14/1 and use gasoline to match. - stay under .720" intake valve lift with those heads and get them ported.

Yes this was a crate motor
So my best bet would be a 545 stroker.... Do you think 800+ hp is reasonable or am I dreaming lol
I'd like to stay on a budget of 3-4g because I plan on building a wild motor this winter but I will go to extra mile and get quality parts to keep this a reliable low maintance motor.
This motor will be used in a mud racing application btw....

Mudrazer wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:Sounds just like an FRPP crate motor.
Stay .030" overbore, (or go .040" if you need a cleanup), for added cylinder wall integrity don't go .080" unless you have to - get the compression ratio up near 14/1 and use gasoline to match. - stay under .720" intake valve lift with those heads and get them ported.

Yes this was a crate motor
So my best bet would be a 545 stroker.... Do you think 800+ hp is reasonable or am I dreaming lol
I'd like to stay on a budget of 3-4g because I plan on building a wild motor this winter but I will go to extra mile and get quality parts to keep this a reliable low maintenance motor.
This motor will be used in a mud racing application btw....

There is no such thing as a LOW maintenance engine with a racing roller cam. The roller cam in an FRPP crate motor is a street/strip roller cam.

If you plan on ANOTHER engine later then simply get some flat-top pistons & rings for what you have and get the heads CNC ported with a right camshaft & components.  With gaskets, some machining and balancing, That will eat-up your 3-4 grand if you do the assembly yourself.

What I ment by low maintance is that I want a consistant engine.
I do plan on assembling myself just unsure what parts to put on it. Is there any stroker kit/rotating assembly out there that would put me where I want to be?

Mudrazer wrote:What I ment by low maintance is that I want a consistant engine.
I do plan on assembling myself just unsure what parts to put on it.  Is there any stroker kit/rotating assembly out there that would put me where I want to be?

To get it all together and make your desired "around 800 horsepower" ... not for anywhere close to the little amount of money you wish to spend to get near that level.

A forged 4.50" stroke rotating assembly with good rods, pistons, rings and bearings will set you back about $2,500.00 for anything balanced and decent. Now machine a block to fit and use all your other top end stuff as is, (now with a higher compression ratio), and get about 70 more lb/ft of torque and maybe 40 more horsepower at around 3,000 less RPM, than what you already have.

Get a right camshaft, CNC port your heads and up the compression ratio on your present engine and gain about 150 horsepower.

rmcomprandy wrote:

Mudrazer wrote:What I ment by low maintance is that I want a consistant engine.
I do plan on assembling myself just unsure what parts to put on it.  Is there any stroker kit/rotating assembly out there that would put me where I want to be?

To get it all together and make your desired "around 800 horsepower" ... not for anywhere close to the little amount of money you wish to spend to get near that level.

A forged 4.50" stroke rotating assembly with good rods, pistons, rings and bearings will set you back about $2,500.00 for anything balanced and decent. Now machine a block to fit and use all your other top end stuff as is, (now with a higher compression ratio), and get about 70 more lb/ft of torque and maybe 40 more horsepower at around 3,000 less RPM, than what you already have.

Get a right camshaft, CNC port your heads and up the compression ratio on your present engine and gain about 150 horsepower.

Right we are on the same track, do you have a rotating assembly that you would recommend to me?
I am willing to spend the money. I don't want cheap parts I want to do it right

rmcomprandy wrote:

Mudrazer wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:Sounds just like an FRPP crate motor.
Stay .030" overbore, (or go .040" if you need a cleanup), for added cylinder wall integrity don't go .080" unless you have to - get the compression ratio up near 14/1 and use gasoline to match. - stay under .720" intake valve lift with those heads and get them ported.

Yes this was a crate motor
So my best bet would be a 545 stroker.... Do you think 800+ hp is reasonable or am I dreaming lol
I'd like to stay on a budget of 3-4g because I plan on building a wild motor this winter but I will go to extra mile and get quality parts to keep this a reliable low maintenance motor.
This motor will be used in a mud racing application btw....

There is no such thing as a LOW maintenance engine with a racing roller cam. The roller cam in an FRPP crate motor is a street/strip roller cam.

If you plan on ANOTHER engine later then simply get some flat-top pistons & rings for what you have and get the heads CNC ported with a right camshaft & components.  With gaskets, some machining and balancing, That will eat-up your 3-4 grand if you do the assembly yourself.

I think at the bottom of the quote Randy said to keep your old enngine/crank/rods and UPGRADE the CAM, PISTONS and PORT the HEADS, FOR THE AMOUT YOU WANT TO SPEND on IT, especially if you are planning for a BETTER ENGINE LATTER.

Mudrazer wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

Mudrazer wrote:What I ment by low maintance is that I want a consistant engine.
I do plan on assembling myself just unsure what parts to put on it.  Is there any stroker kit/rotating assembly out there that would put me where I want to be?

To get it all together and make your desired "around 800 horsepower" ... not for anywhere close to the little amount of money you wish to spend to get near that level.

A forged 4.50" stroke rotating assembly with good rods, pistons, rings and bearings will set you back about $2,500.00 for anything balanced and decent. Now machine a block to fit and use all your other top end stuff as is, (now with a higher compression ratio), and get about 70 more lb/ft of torque and maybe 40 more horsepower at around 3,000 less RPM, than what you already have.

Get a right camshaft, CNC port your heads and up the compression ratio on your present engine and gain about 150 horsepower.

Right we are on the same track, do you have a rotating assembly that you would recommend to me?
I am willing to spend the money. I don't want cheap parts I want to do it right

It looks like it Says the Same here, and you will gain 150 HP Without a NEW ROTATING ASSEMBLY.

Are you thinking of tranfering the new rotating assembly you are after, to your second engine down the road, and putting more money into the latter engine as it becomes available? That would be one reason to look at it, the way you seem to be,with the small gain it would pickup with your current plan. It may have a few bugs in it, and in this case it does not sound very cost effective for a few reasons I won't go into, but alot of guys on a budget go about things this way, in their planning, I know I have before.

[quote="supervel45"][quote="Mudrazer"]

rmcomprandy wrote:                                                                                 It looks like it Says the Same here, and you will gain 150 HP Without a NEW ROTATING ASSEMBLY.

Reason I want new rotating assembly is I need new crank. My last motor builder proved to me he has no clue what he was doing motor ran for 20 min with very low oil pressure pulled the pan and checked main bearings and crank and both are junk! So This is why I want to bore and go with 557 stroker kit and try and get around 13;1 compression. All forged internals in my eyes would be a good investment. If I have to spend the extra few grand just to do it right and just do this once I will be happy with that.

Me, I would get a pencil and paper and call Randy up with the intention of building one engine, and get a price quote, of what it will take and how much it will cost, and write the options down. You did not mention, your crank was trashed, I don't believe? This changes the whole scenario.