So who knows anything about front end aerodynamics.

Stock style front end on my 67. going through the lights at 165 and the nose is lifting 4-5 inches from normal ride height.

Gonna scab an air dam together coming down off the bumper and dropping to 3-1/4" clearance. Hoping this will help hold the nose down... Just to test... when I find out what works I will have a permanent deal made and added.

anybody have any experience with wind tunnels???

dkp

The grille opening on your car is a giant scoop.  Have you closed that off? Filling the front end of that car with high pressure air is a huge no-no....that air has no choice but to go under the car and create lift. Just think of ways to keep air ON TOP of the car instead of under it.  I do know that closing off the grille opening on an early Ranger made it handle MUCH better at high speed.  Clear Lexan would be my choice there.

Take a good look at ProStock and Funny car bodies.....Those guys are going to EXTREMES, but you can see how some of their tricks work.

no grill opening on this nose.. flat panel drops down from front lip of hood to bumper.. stock style splash pan curves under from bumper.

You treed me while I was editing.

Yeah...a cow-catcher style air dam would probably pay off big.

yeah that's what I am thinking. Like you say the pro's all have the same kind of thing no matter what the stock deal looks like..

Other option might be a Nascar style splitter but all the drag cars I look at have the cow catcher style.

dkp

I think the splitter allows more air through the radiator...important on a long run. On a drag car, who cares?

I had almost the same problem with my '68 Mine lifted the front wheels 4 feet off the track at 171 mph. I broke the beams at the 1/4 with my back tires. It hit the wheelie bars so hard it dented the rear valance under the bumper.

I did close off the grill area and then added a small chin spoiler but my problem was caused by too much rear wing angle. that and some Oakley power lol

Before & After... I closed the grill off with a simple plexiglass filler... it seems to be more stable at a "lowly" 135mph /8th mi. and I don't see the hood swelling like I use to...the "chin " spoiler made a BIG difference with stability IMO...
this winter I am going to play around with aero on the lower valence...

My grill block is back in if the weather holds we will see what kinda mph she will go....

richter69 wrote:My grill block is back in if the weather holds we will see what kinda mph she will go....

Jon you should try a "chin" spoiler too... just brace it with some aluminum straps...

I want to build a nice one for it, problem is strapping it down in the trailer....

richter69 wrote:I want to build a nice one for it, problem is strapping it down in the trailer....

thats why i didnt put mine on,lol....i bought it when i got the glass bumpers.i just need to rig up a tow hook of some kind.

The problem of the front tie down straps-chains clearing the bottom of a real low front spoiler usually gets worse the higher off the ground the front frame rails/chassis tie-down loops are, and/or the longer the front straps-chains are. The front end's nose overhang length can also play a part.

Moving the trailer's front floor tie down loops closer to the front of the car & using shorter tie downs/chains can sometimes change the pull angle enough to gain some more spoiler clearance. And using only chains on the front (vs using tie downs) can also gain a little more room since the tie down's ratchet body is no longer taking up room. The down side of using chains on the front is if the car isn't centered perfectly in the trailer every time one front chain will always have some slack.

Cars with lift-off 'glass front ends can sometimes gain a little more spoiler room by using a set of fabbed temporary "mini raised tree" mounts. They're basically a set of temp extensions for the front end slide tree & side fender Dzus trees that are slid/Dzused in place to create new temporary front end mounts that will sit the 'glass front end higher off the chassis (and a little farther forward) to gain more ground/winch cable/tie down clearance between the spoiler & the ground during the trailer ride.    

Another method for a real low car/chassis that also has a real low front spoiler at the minimum height (3") with also a real long nose overhang is a major PITA to use, but it usually works. You place the trailer floor loops so they fall just behind the front spoiler & use super short front tie downs-chains in an X pattern. To load the car you first have to place the front end inside the trailer on temp floor spacers/wood blocks so the front end clears the winch cable. You then load the car & strap down the front/back. Then hang the nose on the car (or try to). This method is easier to do with a wide trailer, or if it's a fairly narrow race car.

I have seen some on enclosed trailers that use just the rear tires they have d-rings in the front and back of the rear tires on both sides and use ratchet straps and go over the rear tires to tie the car down. The down side I see on that is if a tire was to go flat then it could move around in the trailer.

Dean, You may want to go to either Larry Jeffers Race Cars or Tim McAmis Race Cars and study the '67 Mustang bodies they offer for some helpful ideas. http://timmcamis.com/
http://jeffersprocars.com/

The McAmis car is a 7/8 scale body and is actually a totally different body than the Jeffers car. Apparently Jeffers offers two '67 Mustang bodies, one being a Pro street version. Both shops are in Missouri and are ironically only about 50 miles apart from each other. I know you're not going Top Sportsman or Pro Mod racing, but both of these bodies are going 200 - 230 mph and by studying the front ends, you may come up with some ideas for your car.

Hope this helps,
Uncle Charlie

my new car with a Mcamis Body

Frank Merkl wrote:my new car with a Mcamis Body

Swoopy.

I'm pretty sure the Grande liked it.

That's NICE Frank

69bluehotrod wrote:Before   &   After...  I closed the grill off with a simple plexiglass filler... it seems to be more stable at a "lowly" 135mph /8th mi.  and I don't see the hood swelling like I use to...the "chin " spoiler made a BIG difference with stability IMO...
this winter I am going to play around with aero on the lower valence...

How do you strap it to your trailer without having the chin spoiler hit the straps?

My front end is stock and I use the hole in the bumper bracket just below the bumper. My spoiler is about 3-1/2" off the ground.

Yall got me thinking so i thought i'd try it out. 3.5" off the ground will be a pia to load up but if it helps the driving i can deal with it. . All i need is paint!

cool40 wrote:Yall got me thinking so i thought i'd try it out. 3.5" off the ground will be a pia to load up but if it helps the driving i can deal with it.   . All i need is paint!

Looks Good - But I'd give that guy that's been doing Burn outs a bucket & mop and make him clean it up.

Launch pad....