Methanol

Curious to see if there has been any studies or dyno runs comparing methanol from the various fuel companies? Also has anyone tried VP M3 or M5?

I'm running Powermist alky with a MTBE additive that adds 33% oxygen. It isn't nearly as harsh on the eyes and throat and is almost half the price of VP M5. Also the additive isn't nearly as corrosive as the nitro propane used in M5. We were going to test mine against his but he cracked a sleeve and spun a bearing so he is done for the year. "Cleveland engine"

From my experiences of racing with methanol since the mid 1990s, methanol is methanol.
The industrial grade runs the same as (name your brand).
The M5 is favored by some racers, but I am not sure if the gain is worth the price.
I tested it on track with various timing and fuel system configs. and it was not worth it for me.
A good quality top lube is essential to protect your fittings and components.
Keith

M3 is easier on the eyes, m5 offers a tad more power but results vary. Id stick w the plain industrial grade 99.98 percent stuff and roll w it

Keith,
What top lube do you like the best? I haven't used any yet because some say don't use it and some do. I think I would like to try some. Oh, BTW, I need some header tethers when you get time.

I have often wished that I was running alky, especially when I go to the speed shop to buy 110 @ $8 per gallon, and also for the cooling and consistency reasons but what has always scared me about running alky is the maintenence involved. I don't like the idea of having to totally drain the fuel system, drain the carb, remove the plugs and spray fogging oil in the motor to keep everything from corroding, this would really get old having to do all of that after every race. Not to mention that a front mount fuel cell would be nearly impossible on my ride. Are the benefits worth the hassle, or am I misinformed about the mantenence required.

I like Klotz Uplon top lube. Mix it 2/3 qt to a drum.

I've been on methanol for years. If you run a top lube the Maint issues are mostly not true. I drain mine and fog the engine in the winter only. It stays full of fuel for 9 months out of the year. No corrosion. Nothing stopped up. I even have a bare aluminum fuel cell.

David Cole wrote:I like Klotz Uplon top lube.  Mix it 2/3 qt to a drum.

I've been on methanol for years.  If you run a top lube the Maint issues are mostly not true.  I drain mine and fog the engine in the winter only.  It stays full of fuel for 9 months out of the year.  No corrosion. Nothing stopped up.  I even have a bare aluminum fuel cell.

Nice to know, is a front mounted fuel cell a must? If so that rules me out, since I would have to remove the entire front clip to refuel. Not that its a big deal, it comes off in 30 seconds, its just almost impossible if im by myself.

I dont have any issues with alky.I run a little lube in every jug I fill and all I ever run is the low dollar stuff I buy local.m5 hasn't worked to my advantage yet but im gona try it a little more. The only way to run it IMO is injected.

I warm up, drive to the lanes, drive the pit road and end the day on gasoline. I don't run any lube, have any cooling issues and I don't have any extra maintenance.

The aftermarket claim to fame in my opinion has always been consistency, supposed to be +-1-2% on the fuel. The increase in power is neglegable, and the cheaper fuels tend to vary more sometimes bad sometimes good...but the moral of the story to me, is if you filled up on more than one occasion than keep enough from the same fill for eliminations, as the air is the only thing you want to tune to.

I have ran the m3 VP and the cheap methanol and can not tell the different in between the 2. I have the primer plus on mine and also use it to warm the engine up, drive to the lanes, and after the run I shut my alky pump off and as soon as I hear it miss I hit the primer pump and run off gas. When I park it in my shop I make sure the carb is empty of alky and I put some PB blaster down the vent tubes then I smash the excel pumps a few time to make sure the PB comes out the squitters' and then fire it up and let it run until it dies. Takes maybe 3 or 4 mins to do it then I put the carb dust cap on and walk away.

I have never tried the m5 so I can't say on it.

Basically that's what I have learned. Stick with the 99.98-9 pure and only buy sealed virgin drums. I was told some companies sell reclaimed methanol and it is not pure and leaves nasty's in your system.

David Willingham wrote:Keith,
What top lube do you like the best? I haven't used any yet because some say don't use it and some do. I think I would like to try some. Oh, BTW, I need some header tethers when you get time.

I am a faithful user of Manhattan Oil Power Plus top lube. You choose the scent if you wish.
Summit has it in stock for about $10.,.treats a drum.
Others are probably fine. I tried a couple others and always come back to Power Plus.
I never drain my system from Februsry to November. My pumps and fittings last..seems like forever.
I will send a PM on the tethers, or you can call any time.
Keith
678-458-2033

HorsinAround wrote:Basically that's what I have learned. Stick with the 99.98-9 pure and only buy sealed virgin drums. I was told some companies sell reclaimed methanol and it is not pure and leaves nasty's in your system.

I have one guy that use to sell reclaimed and it all came from a peanut butter plant. You open the drum and it smells just like peanut butter! LoL I would assume you can't buy reclaimed Methanol as it's not a FDA approved like pure alky?

Making the switch next year. Looking for a carb.

go injected or stay gas.

kim wrote:go injected or stay gas.

Why not carbed?

The volume of alcohol the systems have to move, the alcohol messes with air flow. They work, they run, and there are as many guys that are going to jump in and tell you how fabulous their car is with alcohol. Back to back dyno only change to engine was alcohol to gas carbs and changing the timing to maximize what was there. On alcohol the engine liked 32 degrees total timing, on gas it likes 34. Same 18-1 compression, same cam, same intake, same everything. 60hp more on gas.

Now the beauty of alcohol, is it isn't as picky on tune, you don't need to change jets for every 10 degrees of temperature change, or 100 feet of altitude to run a similar time. The stuff doesn't mind being a little rich or a little lean engine performance doesn't change a whole lot. Gas, gets real finicky if your going to try and run peak performance through the day/night. With injected alcohol, as David had mentioned in his post, you can run a minimal injector set-up up high in the manifold, and get the intake charge cooled down (one of the huge benefits of alcohol is it modifies the air charge because of evaporational cooling) and then put the majority of the fuel load in at the extreme base of the manifold, or as some are doing directly into the head. That way there is little to no additional mass in the air flow until the very last moment and very little disturbance of the maximum air stream into the engine. Depending on multiple factors, to maximize an alcohol engine your looking at at least 50% more liquid volume in the air... compared to gasoline. That's a whole lot of weight and mass especially when looking at near supersonic air speeds... 750 mph drop of fuel just doesn't like a 90 degree turn..

kim wrote:go injected or stay gas.

X2... trust me on this...
Injection gives you WAY better throttle response, and as Kim has said... its more forgiving in tune up...