Powerglide stator support

A little while ago a trans guy here in Australia said "pin the stator support on a big block car"
Do any of you guys do this? How is it pinned?
My trans guy doesn't remove the stator support so it doesn't come loose but this guy was saying a Big Block can still loosen it.(especially a BBF)
I just ordered a new converter from Lenny @ UCC and i'm going to service the trans while it's out and was wondering if I should do this modification.
Cheers Colin

I used a pump half from BTE that uses the bolt in as well as pressed stator.

I would definatly get one thats better than a stock deal.

So what converter Lenny set you up with?

I haven't got the converter yet, I told Lenny what converter I broke and the specs on the car. He's putting a Mechnical Diode sprag in the new one. My old one had a normal sprag I think.
So I should do something with the stator support?
Cheers Colin.

If it were me I'd get the BTE pump half I spoke of, while your at it get a ringless input as you can get the pump half for either.

Get in touch with Steve Oldani, email seems to work better as he's sometomes hard to get on the phone.

http://www.oldanimotorsports.20megsfree.com/catalog.html

What is the advantage of the ringless shaft?
I have dealt with Steve, I got my straight cut planetry set from him.
Cheers Colin

Stronger as its not hollow inside. The one BTE sells has spiral grooves in it for converter flow so you can leave the bushing in the stator tube for more support.

Just get with Steve and he'll fix you up as you already know.

Personally I think the pin and such is BS I have been running them and see thousands of them run with stock pumps NEVER seen one come loose yet....... I mean ZERO.....


Randy

Here is a reply I got from Steve in an email as he is not registered as of yet.



The BTE stator support IMO is the best option going now if you choose to
stay with an OEM-based Glide front pump. You can contact me to get just
the stator half of the pump; it has all the necessary work done to make it
a bolt-in setup with any OEM front pump gear cavity half. Just make sure
the gear cavity (cresent/etc) isn't worn and the gears are in good shape.
New gears are available as well. If the crescent is worn though the pump
half may be a throwaway item and you'll need to find a better core to work
with. Back to the stator tube... I've seen a good number of them spun
loose. They hold the stator against engine torque. Often they'll get
knocked loose when you're on a 2-step as well. The aftermarket steel
stator tubes that just press in place are a halfway move towards
reliability. They're better than the OEM in terms of strength and a
tighter press fit. But the BTE flanged stator tube is the way to go.
They're not only extremely strong, but are retained with solid pins AND
capscrews. They're never going to spin loose; period. They're set up to
use with virtually everyone's ring style input shafts, along with the BTE
single ring and ringless shafts. A nice design lending iteself to multiple
applications. If you've never spun one loose count your blessings. Because
when you do spin one loose you'll now be in line to disassemble and
freshen the trans plus clean out the cooler and lines. The iron debris
from the steel tube spinning in the pump will migrate through the trans
and MUST be dealt with. It takes very little metallic debris to cause a
lot of issues. And I've seen where a spun/broken stator tube can also
damage the converter. Rare, but it has happened. So, you can cross your
fingers and run an OEM stator half, be a little more confident with a
Sonnax stator tube, or be worry free with the BTE setup. If anyone has
questions they're welcome to contact me.

Steve Oldani

THE only reason I would change a stator support is if it is bad and will not seal the seal ring, I don't give one rats A$$ what he said. I have been in thousands of them and again I have never seen not one come loose.... Period..... no offense but truth is truth



Randy

Prolly not, but what does it hurt for some added insurance? It aint like the stuff cost an arm and a leg.

I've only seen the one come loose but I'd say it had been removed and re-fitted.
Cheers Colin

Jom Insurance may be nice but have you ever tried changing one ? it ain't easy I have done a few cuz they wanted it but it is a bitch....



Randy

I got one from Steve looks good, just a piece of mind with a 3450lb car

And I'm sure it takes a lot to twist one, or if you get a bad one.............hell I opted for a 1.80 st cut as well...............insurance. One good thing the Ford trannys offer is bolt on stator tubes, even the E4 and 4r are pressed............and bolted.

Only piece I worry about breaking on my car is the fuel pump lol. The stator tube deal is just a inexpensive "what if" to get rid of.

Just seems the glide gets a bad wrap about breaking all the time, a stock one I could see it, one with good chit............hardly so. Hell even dan broke a ring type input shaft............

My Buddy's V6 Syclone just twisted the stator support in a $4500 Rossler PG with 8 passes on it. It can happen.

Hey guys. I don't know that I can say I've seen "thousands" of transmissions personally. Probably more in the "hundreds" is more accurate, but who knows. I can't say for sure. I can say that I work with some pretty high-load combinations and do see stator tube issues every season. I've personally run into the 6's with a supercharged 388" small block (Brand X for you guys, lol) and a Glide so I know what it takes to make things live. As to the stator tubes, the Sonnax aftermarket is a decent stop-gap piece. It has a tighter register in the pump stator body half. But it's still only retained by a press fit of the splines. The flanged tube with pins and capscrews is not only stronger but has a much better retention method. Now let's talk about sealing rings. If you have wear issues on the inside of the stator tube (or inside of the drum bore) in a Glide you need to change what you're currently using for sealing rings. Toss the OEM style metal rings and make the move to a scarf-cut Teflon replacement. Both on the input shaft (if shaft uses a ring or rings) and also on the back of the pump. They conform well to the bore and won't tear the seal surface up. The ATI chrome rings are worse yet in that the hard chrome finish eats into the weaker cast iron. If the scoring inside a stator tube or drum is somewhat minor you can use a wheel cylinder/caliper piston hone(s) to clean things up. If there is still sufficient wear after that then you're relegated to finding another suitable core donor. If you want to really step things up then you can move to an aftermarket front pump such as the BTE, TCI, etc. Each has it's benefits. The gerotor pump from TCI works well in most applications except for high-rpm setups and there it can cause issues due to it's massive flow capabilities. I'm fortunate in that I work with 4 of the best companies in the trans business; BTE, TCI, JW, and Transmission Specialties. Anymore a Glide can be built that's pretty solid if you use some common sense and honestly evaluate what your goals are. Most folks generally look down the road and build their trans with parts that will hold what they anticipate eventually making for power. If anyone has questions I'll try to stop in here now and then to check, or I can always be emailed/PM'd/called.
Thanks,
Steve O.

Thanks Steve, now I've got some more things to think about. Cheers Colin