1st BBF Fox in Russia

Hi guys!
Let me share with you my build. Suppose this is the 1 st BBF swap in fox in russian federation, i never heard and seen about similar thing before here.
Fox body is less popular car here than 1st or 4 and 5 gen.
It's a street toy project with mild build. Expecting close to 450 hp.
So, here we go.
Block:
- short block '94 F350
- heads D0ve-C,
- scorpions roller rockers with 1.73 on a stud
- cam xe274h
- holley 750 cfm carb,
- Intake Edelbrock RPM,
Trans:
- C6
Rear end:
- Modified (narrowed) 8.8 from explorer with 3.73,
Body:
- '91 notch AT 2.3l,

many thanks to dfree383 and 69F100 - they are supported me with parts choose.

The first a pics

Sweet! Cool to have American iron tearing up the streets in Russia!

Welcome.

Transmission sitting very close to the body.
Does anybody known the next points?:
- need to check the clearence or the engine slope to make a correct caster,
- what cars used a driveshaft with C6 yoke and 8.8 yoke (1330) together?,
- better stay with current 4 link or go with panhard bar?

The 8.8 was narrowed for 74 mm, and now i got 8.8 with two 31 spline short shafts, LSD and 3.73

windsor wrote:Sweet!   Cool to have American iron tearing up the streets in Russia!

Welcome.

Thanks!
I love an American iron

Here how the C6 looks like under the body.
Thought it should be lifting up, but from the right side trans touched the body.








no chance to put a bolt here

here is the motor assembling and the rockers installation
used a stock 8.55 pushrod, think need longer = close to 9.00

great job friend, glad to see the BBF thing going on over there too!!!! you may want to try a little longer pushrod and maybe 3/8, how hard is it to get parts over there???

butterbean wrote:great job friend, glad to see the BBF thing going on over there too!!!! you may want to try a little longer pushrod and maybe 3/8, how hard is it to get parts over there???

Thanks a lot!
what length of the pushrods you would suggest? (I can't measure at this time, because I left my hometown for long time again - business trip )
Usually i used the ebay. Very expensive to get a heavy parts (13 euro per kg). Light parts approx. x2 price with shipping.
That's why parts like a axles, blocks, transmission better find in Russia (sometime it's helps )

Spacing the K-member down a bit(and 1" or 2") should give you more clearance between the trans and body, motor will fit better under the hood too.

Cool to see this build from Russia. Keep the updates coming.

Jess

Mustang-junky wrote:Spacing the K-member down a bit(and 1" or 2") should give you more clearance between the trans and body, motor will fit better under the hood too.

Cool to see this build from Russia.  Keep the updates coming.

Jess

Oh, forgot about it
Спасибо Jess!
i was surprised the clearance still same after BBF loading


Sergey

Cool progress.

Your welcome.

Jess

Looking good glad see you are making some good progress on it.

Thanks Gentlemen!

This spacers looks good
Will do similar. Guess 1.5" enough.

Looking good, just goes to show its happening every where and it's still all ford power

Hey Norg, get you some Ford blue paint for the engine brother.  and keep up the good work.

Thanks guys!
got 2 paint blue ford





and little beat more...





as i said - I an american iron

daily rig (traded for YJ dana 60 5.2l swaped) - hope this is my last german car...

Nice plate!

So sir's, some work is done:
Installed - rear end, body spacers 1.5", new pushrods, wheels, steering gear. Removed a stock tank and lots of dust.
At this time i have trying to start the motor but have no arc on a sparks.
I can't figuring out how the wiring should be connected. The ECU from 2.3l engine + Stock 1994 truck aftermarket distributor and coil.
The distributor has 8 pin connector = 1 red, 2 green, 4 black (absolutely different comparing with wiring diagram)
The coil has 2 pin connector = 1 RED/LT GRN (PWR +) and 1 TAN/YEL (coil -)
Found in engine compartment lots  of cables = PIP, SPOUT, IGN GROUND, PWR, GRND...
Tried connecting each other but still no run.
Does anybody know - what should be connected to distributor?
Thanks!

damn awesome build , glad to have you here on the site !!!!

Just relax Norg, someone will chime in and help you on the factory stuff, I'm not very good with the wiring end of the builds but if it was mine I would install a pro comp dist and straight wire it and be done with it, but I know your parts are limited so just hang on, it looks like its going together pretty well so far.

bruno wrote:damn awesome build , glad to have you here on the site !!!!

Thanks bruno!

butterbean wrote:Just relax Norg, someone will chime in and help you on the factory stuff, I'm not very good with the wiring end of the builds but if it was mine I would install a pro comp dist and straight wire it and be done with it, but I know your parts are limited so just hang on, it looks like its going together pretty well so far.

Thank you!
I'm also hate the electrical work )
Prefer to go to simple way - to do a manual interruptor or something like that.

Norg..what you have is a 8 pin remote TFI distributor so with that said it only needs 3 wires to run.

Hold the plug with the lock up top

1) +12v in run
2) gnd
3)TFI gnd
4) PIP to TFI
5)no hook up
6)gnd
7)EEC gnd
8)PIP to EEC

Pin layout
1 top left.       So it will go.       1234
                                                    5678

Hook 1 to 12v run power and coil positive

Hook 2 to gnd

Hook 6 to coil gnd

gmsmkr wrote:Norg..what you have is a 8 pin remote TFI distributor so with that said it only needs 3 wires to run.

Hold the plug with the lock up top

1) +12v in run
2) gnd
3)TFI gnd
4) PIP to TFI
5)no hook up
6)gnd
7)EEC gnd
8)PIP to EEC

Pin layout
1 top left.       So it will go.       1234
                                                     5678

Hook 1 to 12v run power and coil positive

Hook 2 to gnd

Hook 6 to coil gnd

Thank you very much!
I will go in that way.