Fired it up

BigRigTech wrote:Came out cursing, swear and uttering death threats while she was out for a walk....Real tough guy picking on a sweet heart 60yr old women....He did it to try and sucker me into a fight and I didn't bite. I'm smarter then that guy, he's slowly making it easier for the cops to have a beef with him but none with me.

WOW... Your stronger than me. If someone Had of done that to one of my grand mom's, I would of had to put them Hospital for special surgery.

BigRigTech wrote:Came out cursing, swear and uttering death threats while she was out for a walk....Real tough guy picking on a sweet heart 60yr old women....He did it to try and sucker me into a fight and I didn't bite. I'm smarter then that guy, he's slowly making it easier for the cops to have a beef with him but none with me.

A plane ticket to Canada and back and I will take care of your neighbor no problem, Hell I always wanted to see the canadian country side!!!!

BigRigTech wrote:Came out cursing, swear and uttering death threats while she was out for a walk....Real tough guy picking on a sweet heart 60yr old women....He did it to try and sucker me into a fight and I didn't bite. I'm smarter then that guy, he's slowly making it easier for the cops to have a beef with him but none with me.

Right approach, escort the family, or make sure they have video ready on their phones, keep your composure.
If you currently run straight headers put 1-2-mufflers per side on a short piece of exhaust pipe with a collector, once you meet the decibel requirement he has no gripe you should be good until 9-10 pm and if that doesn't work I will pitch on the plane ticket

butterbean will knock him to next week and whoop his ass for leaving

the Coug wrote:

DFI429 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:Sounds as if the ignition timing curve is coming "in & out" to vary the idle speed.

Put heavy springs in it to verify.

That's what I was thinking.. 17 & 38 is a lot too

Whats Funny is NOT all Engines like low Timing, just because a lot of the engines on here have 30* timing Doesn't mean they all want it...I have seen it up to 40* and as low as 30* there is not a magic number you have to play with it to find out what yours wants...

I see your point & agree.. But the 'high' initial timing along with the light springs as Randy & others pointed out would seem to be a likely culprit for a hunting idle.  I put an 'ignition advancer' plate on a streetbike of mine (which I've never run at the track to quantify ), and the revs will jump all over the place with the choke on due to getting into the curve sooner..

If anyone gets to throw some I want may turn. ....I'm not too worried about the noise complaint avenue - they have a large dog that doesn't shut up the entire time it's outside...Tit for tat if they try that one. ...If all else fails I'll pay for the plane ticket LOL...Bring your parka, the snow is gone but it would still feel like winter to you southern boys.

This might be the only time I ever say this... Start it and Don't do a burnout

So here's the scoop with my carb. I put the heavy dizzy springs in and it seemed to help. I adjusted the idle up a bit using both the front and rear adjustment screws. It was sitting there around 1000-1100 so that was cool and I thought maybe I had it. I gave it a shot and when it came back down it went back up to 2000 on it's own. I looked in the carb and there was a small amount of fuel seeping from only the LF booster. I backed out the front idle adjuster until it stopped and it the idle went back down. The fuel pressure was around 9psi at cold start up, it was down to 6psi when this happened with about 180F on the temp gauge. The carb has screw in air bleeds and they are all stamped 53. I'll re-check the floats but am I correct to think maybe I had the front butterflies open to the point it starts to expose the transition slots and pull fuel from the booster? Maybe less idle speed in the front and more in the rear?

BigRigTech wrote:... I'll re-check the floats but am I correct to think maybe I had the front butterflies open to the point it starts to expose the transition slots and pull fuel from the booster? Maybe less idle speed in the front and more in the rear?

Sounds like you're getting closer.. You want the idle stops close to balanced front to back, otherwise you might have what you described (too much compensation from the primaries)

I always balance the idle front/back. And it sounds like you fixed it with the heavier springs.

I had a similar problem one time. It would idle fine, but die when dropped into gear. The light springs were pulling the timing back when the RPMs dropped going into gear.

I set the timing today and it seems to want to idle now. I didn't have it completely warmed up but as I was loading it on the trailer it was idling around 800 when the needle just off 100F so maybe I've got it licked...LOL