Things I missed?

Been working on this roller and just noticed that the ladder bars are right under the frame rails. I mean 1/4 inch away from sitting on the frame. Any little bump and Smack. Hw could the guy have raced this car like that?" /> It was a 8:90 door slammer

Looks like he " adjusted" the top bar to get some room. The nature of the ladder bar is to lift so it'll only gain room accelerating but with only 1/4" ......

Don't know what I'm going to do yet. How much clearance between the bar and frame would be good to go if I left the bar in the same location?

Move ladder bars to the inside of the inside bracket put a new bracket on the inside of ladder bars and problem fixed....

X2 move the brackets, don't try to work with stupid

That frame rail could also be changed up a little. Most ladder bar deals run at a longer angle sorta like the ladder bar does.

cool40 wrote:That frame rail could also be changed up a little. Most ladder bar deals run at a longer angle sorta like the ladder bar does.

IMO (and depending on how the L/B crossmember is done) changing the frame rail angles is probably a better idea vs moving the ladder bars inside. There is no reason for an aftermarket/tube frame rail to be that low on a L/B car. Probably wouldn't be that hard to fix the frame rail angle if you first got the car well supported before cutting out/replacing the old frame rails. Without a chassis jig I would do one side/rail at a time to help reduce the chance of it "folding up" in the middle if both rails are cut out at the same time.

The car has sliding leaf spring with the ladder Bars. So if I weld a new frame rail up above the old one and then cut out the clearance I should be good to go........ Thanks guys for everybody input.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

cool40 wrote:That frame rail could also be changed up a little. Most ladder bar deals run at a longer angle sorta like the ladder bar does.

IMO (and depending on how the L/B crossmember is done) changing the frame rail angles is probably a better idea vs moving the ladder bars inside. There is no reason for an aftermarket/tube frame rail to be that low on a L/B car. Probably wouldn't be that hard to fix the frame rail angle if you first got the car well supported before cutting out/replacing the old frame rails. Without a chassis jig I would do one side/rail at a time to help reduce the chance of it "folding up" in the middle if both rails are cut out at the same time.

Did exactly what Dave suggested along with converting the rear to coil overs and dumped the sliding leaf springs. Thanks