double adjustable shock settings for the rear

Taking the preload out is easier than shortening the drivers side. Which is best? If it doesnt work I can always go back to the other.
I have a pan hard bar so with less preload there will be more body roll?

Well if its going to the right and you take preload out i'd think it would get worse but I could be wrong.

Dave De wrote:Taking the preload out is easier than shortening the drivers side. Which is best? If it doesnt work I can always go back to the other.

cool40 wrote:Well if its going to the right and you take preload out i'd think it would get worse but I could be wrong.

Deciding on preload in vs out to correct a right launch depends on which ladder bar side a racer prefers to adjust preload with. So to correct a right launch (and if the housing is square in the car) you usually either remove preload from the driver side ladder bar adjuster, or add preload to the passenger side ladder bar adjuster.

FWIW on aftermarket 4-links & ladder bars I prefer to use the driver side bar only for setting pinion angle, and the passenger side bar only for setting static side-to-side preload. But that's just my personal preference, never liked doing it flipped the other way around.

Dave De wrote:.........I have a pan hard bar so with less preload there will be more body roll?

Since it's a ladder bar car there really shouldn't be tons of body roll happening anyway regardless of centering device used. If you do see a lot of body roll happening on a ladder bar car it's probably from something being bent/broken/not strong enough somewhere in the suspension, or the ladder bars mounted real close together (and needing an anti-roll to help compensate), or something in the chassis/cage is flexing under load, or ladder bar's downhill angle way too steep, or the slicks air pressure being waaay too low.

IMO a panhard bar has no place in a dedicated drag race car since it will pull the rear housing to one side X amount during rear suspension travel. The shorter the panhard bar is, the more it will pull the housing to one side. But if this is a Pro Street car that actually sees real street/highway use along with the strip, then a panhard bar is about the best all around compromise between street vs strip for a rear housing centering device.

I turned the drivers side ladder heim in one full turn and it worked well. I was able to tune the rear shocks to get it to go 1.28 60s and the car ran three bests at 9.13, 9.12, and 9.11
The shock settings are close to what the Viking tech said thay would be with compression at 6 and rebound at 18.
The rear is neutral when it leaves . Also Im able to run higher tire pressure with it at 10.5 pounds.
The help from your recommendations has been valuable to get this car to go straight. I never thought it would bypass the teens and get down to the low 9.11
What a way to finish the season.

Double post

Dave De wrote:I turned the drivers side ladder heim in one full turn and it worked well. I was able to tune the rear shocks to get it to go 1.28 60s and the car ran three bests at 9.13, 9.12, and 9.11
The shock settings are close to what the Viking tech said thay would be with compression at 6 and rebound at 18.
The rear is neutral when it leaves . Also Im able to run higher tire pressure with it at 10.5 pounds.
The help from your recommendations has been valuable to get this car to go straight. I never thought it would bypass the teens and get down to the low 9.11
What a way to finish the season.

all that hard work pays off! Now this winter you can kick back and think about next year!

Right on Dave! Is that an 8-second mustang you are cruzin around

FalconEh wrote:Right on Dave!   Is that an 8-second mustang you are cruzin around

Yes it went on the street for about 200 miles this year. I go to the track and run the full exhaust on it. I dont change very much between the two. I might be in the 8s in two years. Dropping another 1/10th may be very difficult. The exhaust will come off next year to try to go 8.99

Congrats Dave I'm happy for you!