Major disappointment

6jeff6 wrote:Okay thanks. Now being plugs were black can i advance it a few degrees because it already is too rich?

I would set it at 32 total and go from there. Get some new plugs for the track, and try not to idle on them.

PS: If you have been starting that engine every day and letting it idle, those plugs are trash and likely part of your problem.

FalconEh wrote:The #8987 is not a 2-step it is a start retard / activation retard  the way you have explained it the box is retarding the timing 10^ on start-up, the E14  setting would be retarding the timing 14^ on activation (14^ retard from total timing) Follow the pink wire from the 8987 box and see where it goes this wire should only be activated for a given amount of nitrous, if it is activating now you are removing 14^ of total timing.

This is what makes no sense to me. I agree with everything Falcon said. You have one fuel pump as I understand. If the nitrous bottle was closed, and the system was armed, and it called for timing retard, the fuel solenoid would open, and totally flood the engine. Is there a fuel line hooked to the fuel solenoid and is it wired in?

I just put in new plugs yesterday.
I unplugged power by selenoids because that's where I stole power for line lock (what used to be purge button)

4 grand it's at 40. Stops climbing at 4

OK, that makes more sense. Cut the pink wire to the retard, and you should be good. Set timing to 32 degree's total, and go after carb., if it is fat. I would pick up a few new sets of plugs just to have on hand at the track, don't forget the antisieze either.

So back it off to 32 or try like this and see before backing it off?

You should check your jet sizes also and post them, so we have an idea where you are at.

6jeff6 wrote:So back it off to 32 or try like this and see before backing it off?

I would back it off to 32 and see if you can make a clean pass and go from there, better too little timing then too much, in my opinion.

I would start at 28 degrees total , and work up from there a couple degrees at a time. My scj headed 521was happy at 30.

Okay thanks I will start at 28

6jeff6 wrote:Car 97 cobra nice set up built 8.8 with spool will check gears today but when bought car said 3.73s or less, spool, 28x10x15 slicks, aluminum drive shaft, built c4 with 3,500 stall, bone stock 521 from roush/Yates with kooks headers that made 609 hp at 5750rpm with 1050 dominator carb.

My car has gone 10.08 at 134 with a 600HP 472" at 3022lbs...That's with a 5000 stall in a C6 leaving off the transbrake. With new slicks it will 60 foot 1.46/1.47 consistently on a shitty SSM bar/stock spring rear suspension. My original combo made 475HP, with a very tight 3500 stall it would run 11.70's...I changed nothing but the converter - new 4500 stall - leaving off the foot brake it went 10.85 off the trailer. The car was 3100+lbs then. Your car is likely a fair bit heavier but you should get some nice ET drops when you get the bugs out.

BigRigTech wrote:

6jeff6 wrote:Car 97 cobra nice set up built 8.8 with spool will check gears today but when bought car said 3.73s or less, spool, 28x10x15 slicks, aluminum drive shaft, built c4 with 3,500 stall, bone stock 521 from roush/Yates with kooks headers that made 609 hp at 5750rpm with 1050 dominator carb.

My car has gone 10.08 at 134 with a 600HP 472" at 3022lbs...That's with a 5000 stall in a C6 leaving off the transbrake. With new slicks it will 60 foot 1.46/1.47 consistently on a shitty SSM bar/stock spring rear suspension. My original combo made 475HP, with a very tight 3500 stall it would run 11.70's...I changed nothing but the converter - new 4500 stall - leaving off the foot brake it went 10.85 off the trailer. The car was 3100+lbs then. Your car is likely a fair bit heavier but you should get some nice ET drops when you get the bugs out.

What cam were you running in that 475HP deal, I forgot?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-342-4

That was with a 10:1 468, mild 429PI heads, Offy port-o-sonic and 750HP carb on 91 octane pump gas.

Thanks.

Thanks I'm trying. I went 11.814 but had throttle stick wide open and may have found what was the serious problem. The pedal assemble was all bent to hell so I bent it straight, took it out, left car at track and got it welded last night and will go back today put it in and try! I'll get 3 runs I think today. I may have been only getting just a tick over half throttle! !!!!!

LoL, that will slow you down a little.

My buddy did the same thing running a throttle stop to slow his car for the 10.90 class in the Pro tree race....LOL...next full out pass was slow and he was pissed LOL

Heading now. I went with 44 gap on plug and 38 degrees timing but I think I'll back that to 33-34 today but I only get 3 runs

I run mine at 38* but it's N/A only.

10.6 letting off last 200 feet trying to get win but I broke was a 10.70 dial . Took 2nd out of 16 cars. Also leaving off trans brake 2200ish otherwise squirelled bad.
Thanks everyone I had a 10.5 in that run easy

Your getting the bugs out and that's what matters. I broke out a lot last year with my new combo...a veteran fellow racer and friend of mine likes to remind me - " you know there are two pedals in that car" LOL...I know Bernie...I know LOL

Congrats on making headway ....looks like your headed in right direction

Thanks guys it's fun to put in the work and go the right way. Hated leaving my car there last night but it paid off big. I tried one 3500 launch and it chattered real bad and because it was race day didn't do it again. And I did a 1.5xx 60 ft on the last pass at 2200 launch.
Can't thank everyone enough for the help. Now I need to adjust lash on heads but I'll start another thread on that to see what you guys think is right as they're clacking a little more now.