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Loaded question??

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69F100
IDT-572
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Post  gmsmkr February 4th 2016, 3:25 pm

Ok guys all you stock stroke combos out there that are spinning the piss out of them... 7000+ rpm

Where is your maintenence schedule starting..( how often do you look at your internals )

Passes or hours

What have you been finding problems with.

Stock crank
Aftermarket rods
Forged pistons
Valve train
Oiling


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Post  IDT-572 February 4th 2016, 6:16 pm

Oil clearance .0026-.0028 rods .0034-.0036 mains
.018-.025 rod side clearance.
70 psi hot oil pressure
250 seat 800 open for solid roller
Ti retainer
Block oiling mods
Kasse pump
Good pan with good oil control.

This is proven to work to 7000 rpm and 850 hp on stock block
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Post  69F100 February 4th 2016, 9:24 pm

I only turned mine 6500 pulled it down in the winter for freshening all 3 times every thing looked like new
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Post  Super Snake Steve February 4th 2016, 11:15 pm

I think you build your motor with good Quality parts and a great machinest and engine Builder and do like was mention and keep a ear out unless it's just a big boom and something go's you'll normally hear something before it blows up

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Post  BigRigTech February 4th 2016, 11:31 pm

I run mine 6500-7000, melling HV pump with 20w-50 VR-1 oil. I check my valve adjustment after every race. I replace and cut the filter open every 2nd race. I have 70+passes on my 472 now so the pan is coming off for a bearing inspection before the first race in May. Wink
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Post  gmsmkr February 5th 2016, 1:09 am

Well I downed my junk tonight and looks like brand new still

I did a oil change last night and found what I thought was gold flake so I assumed I got a bearing.... I was wrong all looks good as new and everything is OK not sure where it came from but not worried about it now..

I spin my 6800-7000 rpm and it loves to twist
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Post  BBFTorino February 5th 2016, 2:50 am

On a prior 472, I spun it to 7500-7700. It was a D1VE 2 bolt block with ARP studs. Upon teardown, everything looked good, but there was serious "cap walk" (nitrous motor).
Even though the mains are torqued to like 10,000 lb. ft. LOL.
The studs are smaller diameter than the factory bolts, so I made some sleeves to fit over the studs and into the main cap bolt holes. I never noticed any more evidence of cap walk after that.
But then I later over revved it and completely destroyed the engine (piston to valve contact) and had to get another block.

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Post  torino501 February 5th 2016, 9:54 am

gmsmkr wrote:Well I downed my junk tonight and looks like brand new still

I did a oil change last night and found what I thought was gold flake so I assumed I got a bearing.... I was wrong all looks good as new and everything is OK not sure where it came from but not worried about it now..

I spin my 6800-7000 rpm and it loves to twist

bronze dist gear?

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Post  gmsmkr February 5th 2016, 5:03 pm

torino501 wrote:
gmsmkr wrote:Well I downed my junk tonight and looks like brand new still

I did a oil change last night and found what I thought was gold flake so I assumed I got a bearing.... I was wrong all looks good as new and everything is OK not sure where it came from but not worried about it now..

I spin my 6800-7000 rpm and it loves to twist

bronze dist gear?

I thought that was the problem after further inspection it is my rocker arms clipping the valve spring retainers I have now got clearance on the area that was clipping and should have no more problems.

Just a heads up for others that read this.....Frpp scj heads with big valve springs and Harland sharp rockers need some minor attention
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