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Pistons jamming

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Post  norg February 23rd 2016, 12:30 pm

Dear Sirs,
Got a trouble with the engine last time.
The pistons moved with creak noise. Manualy turned the shaft, starter can't.
Removed oil pan. Then I had lubricate the pistons. Tried o move it again and it's ok.
Spent lot of time and power o find this reason of jamming, but not solved yet.
So anybody knows - how the pistons is lubricated in our blocks?
Did not found any holes and grooves in rods.
Thanks!
norg
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Post  jbozzelle February 23rd 2016, 1:12 pm

Piston skirts are lubricated from the oil splashing off the crank and rods.

Do you have oil pressure?

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Post  norg February 24th 2016, 12:51 am

jbozzelle wrote:Piston skirts are lubricated from the oil splashing off the crank and rods.  

Do you have oil pressure?

I will check it on a crank, but how the rods get the oil?
No any holes on a rods bearings even no any grooves on a rods clamp (like on a mopar's). How it goes into the rod?

Oil pressure was 4-5 Bar on 2000 rpm, then in one day it was fall up to 2 Bar.

Engine running total approx 5-8 hrs for half year. Never been overheated.

The block, crank, rods, pistons, oil pump - EFI
Heads, intake, gaskets, rings, bearings, valves - Carb
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Post  BBFTorino February 24th 2016, 2:11 am

Check the oil pump. Is the pressure relief spring stuck??
Is the pick up tube too close or too far from the bottom of the oil pan??
Is the oil pump drive shaft twisted or broken??

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Post  norg February 24th 2016, 2:52 am

BBFTorino wrote:Check the oil pump. Is the pressure relief spring stuck??
Is the pick up tube too close or too far from the bottom of the oil pan??
Is the oil pump drive shaft twisted or broken??

Ok, will check it. But manually turned the shaft got some flow.
Pick up tube - custom made. I filled the oil volume as per manual, and held the level in my head. The stick was approx 2" deep in to the oil. The stick from some chebys.
No, don't. It's straight.

Googling the oil system of the FE, and still not found any info about pistons lubrication.
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Post  jbozzelle February 24th 2016, 9:42 am

The connecting rods get oil from the passages in the crank that are fed with pressurized oil from the block. The bottoms and skirts of the pistons are "splash" lubricated from the oil that "flies" off the crank throws as the crankshaft rotates in the block.

I'm curious as to what the problem is. Does the engine run, or no? Will it turn over by hand with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt? Does the engine run OK? Does it make any noise when running?

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Post  norg February 24th 2016, 10:10 am

jbozzelle wrote:The connecting rods get oil from the passages in the crank that are fed with pressurized oil from the block.  The bottoms and skirts of the pistons are "splash" lubricated from the oil that "flies" off the crank throws as the crankshaft rotates in the block.

I'm curious as to what the problem is.  Does the engine run, or no?  Will it turn over by hand with a wrench on the crankshaft bolt?  Does the engine run OK?  Does it make any noise when running?

The problem is - i had a dry walls of the cylinders.
The story:
The engine was assembled half year ago.
Then it was running 5-8 hrs total. I never drove a car as normal ride (just 10 times 300 meters). Because some work not done with instrument and suspension.
Then i did adjusting suspension, connected all gauges but season is end (every november in Russia the ice on a road and some areas snow falling).
With inspiration of open new season (it's april) I began to preparing the car for ride. Several times i started the engine.
Once tried to start but stater can't turn the motor. I thought it's starter problem.
Tried to turn manually with wrench, but did it only with some tube for extension to increase the power. I have 100 kg and spent a lot of efforts to turn it. In this time i heard the noise as creak, or rubber to glass. I been sure it's a bearings.
So removed the oil pan, pulled out all the bearings one by one, but nothing special. Generally all ok. But crank still noising.
Then i had lubricate walls with WD40, and one by one move the pistons. And at the end the crank was rotated very easy by wrench with one hand.
On 2 and 4 cylinders the pistons was fixed hard. But weak later with WD40.
On that cylinders i found some rust patina.

So looks like the oil level was not enough in to the engine...
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Post  BBFTorino February 24th 2016, 5:36 pm

It sounds like water or moisture got into the cylinders and got the pistons stuck in the bores.
Leaking head gasket??

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Post  jones February 24th 2016, 6:42 pm

BBFTorino wrote:It sounds like water or moisture got into the cylinders and got the pistons stuck in the bores.
Leaking head gasket??

Was the engine out in the elements during winter? Could have got water through the carburetor, pcv valve, oil fill tube, exhaust.

Cylinders should not rust after engine has been running if engine was perfect. Oil system sounds good or else you would have metal in oil pan & bad bearings.

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Post  cool40 February 24th 2016, 9:56 pm

Do you have antifreeze in Russia?
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Post  norg February 25th 2016, 12:39 am

BBFTorino wrote:It sounds like water or moisture got into the cylinders and got the pistons stuck in the bores.
Leaking head gasket??

I thought about this also. Yes maybe head or intake gasket leaking. Antifreze we use.
How to figure out it w/o removing the heads?
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Post  norg February 25th 2016, 12:55 am

jones wrote:
BBFTorino wrote:It sounds like water or moisture got into the cylinders and got the pistons stuck in the bores.
Leaking head gasket??

Was the engine out in the elements during winter? Could have got water through the carburetor, pcv valve, oil fill tube, exhaust.  

Cylinders should not rust after engine has been running if engine was perfect. Oil system sounds good or else you would have metal in oil pan & bad bearings.

It stay into the garage all the time. I started the engine time by time (1-2 time per week). But not preheated up to working temperature. Only for 70-80 degrees.
Since november up to march here always below 0 degree. Even less then - 10 and below up to - 30 C.
Last time i found some gray film on valve cover (inside). My neighbor said it because you start cold engine and not used properly, some moister created inside.
Nothing bad into oil pan. But some bearings (main) has scratches. But not serious.
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Post  norg February 25th 2016, 1:05 am

cool40 wrote:Do you have antifreeze in Russia?

Yes two type:
1st called - tosol. It's very popular for standard cars and trucks
2nd called antifreeze - it's for premium cars (orange, green ... )

In south of Russia somebody use a water for aluminium engine.

My location at this time - Tatarstan republic - it's middle of Russia (Kazan). Here nobody can use a water.
Local people also using two type of tires - half year winter, half year summer type.

I can't leave my garage because it's snow everywhere. Mustang in Russia it's summer toy ).
Only in south (Rostov and below to black sea) we have good weather. My hometown there.
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