184 tooth flexplate

is quick time the only one that offers a 184 tooth flexplate.
I have ben through a few different 164 tooth plates, if I slot the hole on the starter and let it overlap the block plate they hold up for a month or so.
thanks mike

obxboarder wrote:is quick time the only one that offers a 184 tooth flexplate.
I have ben through a few different 164 tooth plates, if I slot the hole on the starter and let it overlap the block plate they hold up for a month or so.
thanks mike

A 184 tooth flexplate for an automatic trans is an "FE engine" flexplate. The crankshaft bolt patterns are the same.

thank you
would I have to use the starter for the FE as well
mike

obxboarder wrote:thank you
would I have to use the starter for the FE as well
mike

The 385 bellhousing is not the same as an  "FE" therefore, the flexplates do not interchange unless you can somehow find a way to use a bellhousing from a standard shift.
Then you could use a 3 bolt FE starter; (just not use the third bolt).

rm-956 is the part # for the flexplate I am looking at it is said to be for a 460/429 and is 184 tooth

that is the only one I can find.
I have ben through 6 flexpates and 5 starters and it is very frustrating when it starts grinding.

I am using a starter off of a 94 f350, and have tried several brands of flexplates with the same results all with 164 teeth
my trans case is the ribbed one and have the separation plate from the current block that is in use which is a d9

any other suggestions would be great I would love to get this fixed for good
thanks mike

obxboarder wrote:rm-956 is the part # for the flexplate I am looking at it is said to be for a 460/429 and is 184 tooth

So, go ahead and buy it.  

You asked a question; then proceed to try and argue with an answer ... the answers were free so if it doesn't suit your thinking then you can take it or leave it and do whatever you wish.

I am not trying to argue or say that you are wrong simply trying to fix my problem

I put that up there for a reference not to be a wise ass
thanks mike

Why not use a 164 tooth flexplate and the same starter you currently have?

What's the combo? Why the need to stick with the 184 tooth flexplate?

I have ben running the 164 tooth plate
its a 521 with a d9 block a ribbed trans case converted to 4x4

the only way I get any time out of the plate is to slot the lower starter hole and let it overlap the block plate some.

I have seen that a few other people on the other site that said they were able to use a 184 tooth plate to fix the issue, and I am at my wits end with this so anything to fix this problem would be awesome
thanks mike

Do you have the correct block plate? A standard shift and automatic trans are different plates with a different starter placement.

no the block plate was the one that came out of the truck. it was a factory 460/c6 combo

the only thing that I changed was the factory 89 transmission case to the ribbed case when I built the trans and switched to a newer style starter.

the starter is wired with the hot on the battery side of the solenoid and the little activation wire on the other side of it with a ground connected to the starter from the frame.

the starter that is currently on it is a autozone reman and has ford part #s on the cone and is for a auto transmission.

I have tried several times with a new starter and flexplate and after a few races or so the grinding comes back.

So you have an external solenoid wired to the starter mounted solenoid and then that is jumped to the small terminal on the starter?

If so, that may be your problem. The starter is still engaging ever so slightly upon release of your starter switch. It's hardly noticeable but enough to keep the Bendix ever so slightly engaged and chew up the gear on the starter...

I think so the main power cable goes to one side of the fender mount and then the constant goes from that same side to the big lug on the starter.
the small activation wire is on the other side of the fender mount to the small lug on starter.

I still run a alternator and it is run to the main side of the fender mount as well to charge the battery

does this sound ok?
thanks mike

That sounds like it's wired properly...  The positive from the battery is wired all the way through to the starter and the small wire off the solenoid triggers the starter to engage...

I'm scratching my head on this one.  So no chance at all that the block plate could be wrong?  Do you have another block plate to compare it to?

My only other suggestion would be to try another starter or at least compare your starter to some other brands. See if the gear on the starter is the same size compared to others. Even compare to a 164 tooth 351W starter...

I do have another plate off of a 79 but it lines up the same I will go to orielys or something and compare the starter to one they offer
its got me puzzled as well

thanks mike

https://www.429-460.com/t13295-who-makes-184-tooth-sfi-29-1-spec-flexplate
here is another on this site
I will see if I can find others

After reading that other post you should compare your current starter to the starter for that specific year truck. Might be some differences.

Other post mentioned only two model years having a 184 tooth flexplate and matching starter

something is Mickey Moused some were !
Frank