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Main bolt to stud swap.

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dfree383
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Main bolt to stud swap. Empty Main bolt to stud swap.

Post  Coupe Devil September 11th 2016, 6:23 pm

I am thinking of pulling the pan and swapping to main studs. I've never had a main studded motor. My question is there in any reason to recheck bearing tolerance after the studs are torqed once? MY brain says not to because clamp force is clamp force be it bolt or stud.. Just wanted to check before I do something wrong.
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Post  dfree383 September 11th 2016, 6:43 pm

I've never had an issue with the bolts
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Post  cool40 September 11th 2016, 11:07 pm

No way I'd just down it for studs. The bolts are the last thing you're gona have problems with. IMO
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Post  Coupe Devil September 12th 2016, 11:41 am

Spoke with some other folks about it to. They agreed. Fabio said he still has 632 with 2 guns so I think my little motor will be just fine ahahah
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Post  Paul Kane September 12th 2016, 12:18 pm

Coupe Devil wrote:I am thinking of pulling the pan and swapping to main studs....MY brain says...clamp force is clamp force be it bolt or stud...
When it comes to bolts versus studs, there are many more factors to consider than just clamp force.

In short, if you are running a 2-bolt passenger car block you are better off with the OEM main bolts than aftermarket main fasteners...especially aftermarket main studs.  And this becomes more and more true as engine power increases.
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Post  Coupe Devil September 12th 2016, 2:27 pm

Its a 2 bolt block.. Explain the reason to keep the bolts as hp increases? I don't quite understand that one.
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Post  IDT-572 September 12th 2016, 4:42 pm

I have had good service using grade 8 socket head cap screws and ARP hardened washers on both head and main bolts.

They clear all rockers and shaft rockers and have run up to 16:1 compression without a problem.
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Post  jones September 12th 2016, 8:05 pm

IDT-572 wrote:I have had good service using grade 8 socket head cap screws and ARP hardened washers on both head and main bolts.

They clear all rockers and shaft rockers and have run up to 16:1 compression without a problem.

I have designed some machines with socket head cap screws under extreme loads, mainly shear loading. I don't really understand the bolts over stud's though. If you really need to keep something together you use studs, thats unless you rather see signs of cap walk to get a better Idea of the engine dynamics.

I would really like to hear the thought's behind bolt's over studs in a 2-bolt production block.

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Post  cool40 September 12th 2016, 8:52 pm

The fastener is not the weak link,the cap is. Bolts are more than up to the task so why bother with studs. I have personally ran them in 2 bolt blocks and still have the same cap walking as the bolts. If it ain't broke don't fix it comes to mind. Laughing
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