Aluminum vs eliminator callies vs bryant or winberg

Looking at blocks with the bore I want to go with 4.625 to 4.650 leaning towards  the aluminum  for weight and ease of fixing if something happens

Thoughts? 582/584 cubic inches

Also looking at cranks callies 4.3 about 1850. Vs a billet from bryant is about 3500 this will be for a nitrous AHeaded motor

Is the billet needed with the smaller  stroke i know plenty of chevy guys running the forged at 1500 to 1600 hp with no problems?

Forged Bryant!

Like a piece of jewelry. And probably just as expensive.

http://winbergcrankshafts.com/

We have plenty of nitrous big blocks running around the 2000hp mark with the callies forged crank.

We're still of the old school cast iron is better group down here for ring seal.

I don't put a lot of faith in "billet" anything and I would rather have a high quality forged crank any day. I know the argument is that billets can be made from stronger materials that can't be forged. But how often when cranks fail is it ever an ultimate strength problem? A forging allows the grain of the metal to follow the shape of the part which in my opinion makes it last longer under high but not ultimate loads.

The problem at least as of a few years ago was that Bryant and Crower and probably others who bought a lifetime supply of forgings from Ford before they quit making them ran out so it became only billets has that changed?

DaveMcLain wrote:I don't put a lot of faith in "billet" anything and I would rather have a high quality forged crank any day.  I know the argument is that billets can be made from stronger materials that can't be forged.  But how often when cranks fail is it ever an ultimate strength problem?  A forging allows the grain of the metal to follow the shape of the part which in my opinion makes it last longer under high but not ultimate loads.  

The problem at least as of a few years ago was that Bryant and Crower and probably others who bought a lifetime supply of forgings from Ford before they quit making them ran out so it became only billets has that changed?  

Two things, forged vs billet. 1) is called forge laps. They happen. Sometimes they appear on the machined surface and you can catch them, sometimes they don't. You don't run that risk with a billet. 2) the grain "structure" is really an invalid argument as far as strength goes. With so much material being removed from a forged crank -from forging to finish- there has been so much grain interruption that it really becomes a moot point.
I don't think a billet is really any "stronger" than a forged crank. I think there is more quality control over the final product with a billet which adds a certain amount of insurance against failure.

studly wrote:Looking at blocks with the bore I want to go with 4.625 to 4.650 leaning towards  the aluminum  for weight and ease of fixing if something happens

Thoughts? 582/584 cubic inches

Also looking at cranks callies 4.3 about 1850. Vs a billet from bryant is about 3500 this will be for a nitrous AHeaded motor

Is the billet needed with the smaller  stroke i know plenty of chevy guys running the forged at 1500 to 1600 hp with no problems?

If you want to make power, use an iron block. If you're worried about weight or repairs, use aluminum.

If you have the budget the aluminum C&C MotorSports block is the best long term decision.

Scott Foxwell wrote:

DaveMcLain wrote:I don't put a lot of faith in "billet" anything and I would rather have a high quality forged crank any day.  I know the argument is that billets can be made from stronger materials that can't be forged.  But how often when cranks fail is it ever an ultimate strength problem?  A forging allows the grain of the metal to follow the shape of the part which in my opinion makes it last longer under high but not ultimate loads.  

The problem at least as of a few years ago was that Bryant and Crower and probably others who bought a lifetime supply of forgings from Ford before they quit making them ran out so it became only billets has that changed?  

Two things, forged vs billet. 1) is called forge laps. They happen. Sometimes they appear on the machined surface and you can catch them, sometimes they don't. You don't run that risk with a billet. 2) the grain "structure" is really an invalid argument as far as strength goes. With so much material being removed from a forged crank -from forging to finish- there has been so much grain interruption that it really becomes a moot point.
I don't think a billet is really any "stronger" than a forged crank. I think there is more quality control over the final product with a billet which adds a certain amount of insurance against failure.

I wonder if Bryant, Crower and others X-ray raw forgings before they begin the machine work on one? If so would that detect a lap or an inclusion?

I can tell you i emailed all three and the only reponse i got was from callies so i know what i am purchasing now

studly wrote:I can tell  you i emailed all three and the only reponse i got was from callies so i know what i am purchasing now

We order from Callies about every other day so I trust them to tell me the truth on things.