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Staging with a trans brake

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BigDave65
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Post  manofmerc October 24th 2016, 5:25 am

I got my c 6 built and Franks valve body installed .I built it pretty much to his specs.My convertor was sent out and freshened up .Everything looked like new inside .This transmission probably had 300-400 passes on it .My question to you all is how are you staging ? I plan on leaving at 2300-2500 .So tell me do you floor the pedal when both yellows are on ? Or do you wait until the lights are coming down and put the pedal down .Just trying to conserve my convertor .Which is an 8" ati Any other advise will be welcomed .One other do I have to be careful about engaging the button in gears other than low ? I have a big stacked plate cooler and the truck pan on my c6.Thanks Doug Smile

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Post  D. Sea October 24th 2016, 9:19 am

My convertor flashes to 5500 and it's a Glide so keep that in mind.  

However a little back story, i had to set mine up to run off of a .500 Pro Tree which works just as well on the .500 Sportsman tree.  At first I was cutting .420 lights (-.080 Red) so i had to slow down the transmission dump and put in the lowest chip on my two step at 3200 rpm AND install an adjustable long travel transbrake button.  

So I pre-stage, bump into stage then engage the transbrake, put it on the floor and wait for the light.

Edit: I don't run a delay box, I'm bottom bulb or pro tree racing.


Last edited by D. Sea on October 25th 2016, 8:01 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  BigDave65 October 24th 2016, 1:10 pm

I'm running a glide and I wait until I let go of the button before I jump on the 2-step. I concentrate better without all that racket going on! Laughing
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Post  maverick October 24th 2016, 7:00 pm

At the first yellow, I release the button and mat the throttle in one motion. That way I'm only on the 2 step for a second or so. No need to build a lot of heat.
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Post  richter69 October 25th 2016, 11:33 am

.4 protree racing... When both stage bulbs are lit u better be on tha gas......
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Post  maverick October 25th 2016, 6:52 pm

richter69 wrote:.4 protree racing... When both stage bulbs are lit u better be on tha gas......

Yessir, sho nuff. I didn't specify I was delayin' Embarassed
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Post  BigRigTech October 28th 2016, 11:13 am

I have one of Frank's VB's in my c6 and it's full roller as well. we run a .500 sportsman tree and a few .500 pro tree races a year. I run a delay box and I'm on the button and on the floor as soon as the last stage bulb is lit. I'm letting go on the top bulb. I'm usually the slower car in the pairing in S/Pro and I only run "box" gamblers races which are mostly my fellow super pro racers so I'm not too concerned with building heat. I have a large tranny cooler in my car for peace of mind. I'm slow to see the light so I have .980 in my box, I'm getting better I guess as at the August race I had .503, .504 and .507 lights on the sportsman tree. I usually cut .510-20 lights on the pro tree but I have gone .490's red. Frank's VB's are wicked fast, no wait time there! LOL
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Post  99zx9r November 2nd 2016, 11:29 pm

richter69 wrote:.4 protree racing... When both stage bulbs are lit u better be on tha gas......

I run both top bulb brackets and S/G and I'm always drilling the sequence into my head while driving to the stage beams. So far I haven't mixed them up.

To the OP, if I'm running brackets against a much slower car I'll pause a second or two before going on the chip to try and save parts.
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