800DP on near stock 460?

83Capri wrote:I don't have firewall clearance, that was my next item to address, I was thinking of using a cable.

I don't know what they use in that regard. The lever pushes downward.

I guess it might be possible to modify the lever to where the arm faces backwards so that a cable can pull it upwards?

Then you will have to fab a bracket to attach somewhere to hold the end of the cable on the lever side.

Make the arm face straight upwards might be best and the cable pulling it forward.

http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-instructions/INS0007-FordC4C6-KickdownKit.pdf

Maybe this will work?

.ebay.ca/itm/FORD-C6-TRANSMISSION-STAINLESS-STEEL-BRAIDED-KICK-DOWN-CABLE-6048-/262539456848?hash=item3d20923150:g:NZkAAOSwWfFXkmEI&vxp=mtr

gonna see if I can scavenge something first, goal is to be driving it for the 3rd weekend in july, local show and shine. granted I still dont have a hood that fits but the cops say I don't need one.

Try and post that link again by itself, it is not working for some reason.

83Capri wrote:yeah it does still have the 50cc pump on the secondary,  a Little lean may be ok I'm at 3500ft or so. I ordered the renew kit for the carb today, I'll pick up some extra carb cleaner and seafoam on monday.

Does you Holley have any of the gold finish left?

nope

OK. I was just wondering as some of those chemicals are pretty strong or used to be before they were watered down like the new Chem Dip and would remove the finish if you soaked them too long.

I use an old 2 qt stainless steel pot normally and soak 1 large peice at a time, first one for an hour then switch the next one in, time permitting of course. if they're real grimy they go back in.I've mostly just fixed leaks and made them run. Farm trucks, as long as it starts its good. The shop I work at is all about the edelbrock carbs, I recently started reading about the holleys and realized no-one at my shop has a clue about them. I've since become the ford/holley expert, somehow I'm the mercedes guy too, makes me feel dirty.

Try throwing your cleaned parts in a boiling tank of distilled water with some TSP in it for an hour and see if anything else comes out of them in the bottom of the tank. Not a big fan of Edeljunk myself either, LoL.

yeah I'll let you know I could see that getting contamination right out of the metal

Don't put the base plate or any aluminum in the TSP unless you want it to come out black.

good to know

So I got the carb rebuilt mocked it up on the engine adjusted throttle cable etc... pcv connection and vacuum connection are hitting each other at the back. I had 2 thin aluminum heat isolators and 3 gaskets to get it high enough to clear the throttle linkage, but it wasn't enough to clear the vacuum ports. On my last carb the pcv was on passenger side.

So I went to NAPA today and they found a pressure gauge for my fuel line and the smallest spacer they could find was a 1". Need to stick with the 4 hole, running an offenhauser dual-port, so I didn't have many options. Good thing I already have a hole in the hood to clear the HEI distributor.

Got the carb set-up nicely last weekend. The best I've ever seen a Holley run. Set transfer slot to show 0.020" below throttle plates and only adjusted secondary idle to get my idle speed up to 650rpm idle in gear. Now I just have to figure out how to make this thing hook-up. getting through floor sub-frame connectors (2"x2" 0.25" wall, firewall to rear lower control arm) done before the end of this month and correcting 4-link geometry while I'm in there. Thanks for the advice!

83Capri wrote:Got the carb set-up nicely last weekend. The best I've ever seen a Holley run.  Set transfer slot to show 0.020" below throttle plates and only adjusted secondary idle to get my idle speed up to 650rpm idle in gear.  Now I just have to figure out how to make this thing hook-up. getting through floor sub-frame connectors (2"x2" 0.25" wall, firewall to rear lower control arm) done before the end of this month and correcting 4-link geometry while I'm in there. Thanks for the advice!

Good to hear you got her going.  I would not get too carried away opening the secondaries to adjust idle, especially if you have an overdrive or tall highway gear. If you uncover the rear transfer slots it will likely fatten up your cruise AFR if you are below the main signal on the primaries., which is not likely your case. You can check the slots next time you take it off.

I picked up an almost new 86770-1Blu 770 Vacuum Secondary with down leg boosters today on a core trade in at and it looks almost new. Billet baseplate and metering blocks and the rest aluminum. I love the old 3310's and 3310-1's but, this thing is pretty sweet.

Interesting Trivia, a 750-780 VS has the same size throttle blades and venturi's as an 800 DP. The 172 throttle blades front and rear are thinner then the 173 on the back of 650-800 Dp's and most have a thinned out secondary shaft on the Vacuum Carburetors. The only thing they left off the new 770's is the brass vacuum tube that runs to the front venturi to help signal like the old ones have.

it wasn't much of an adjustment total 1-1/4 turn from fully closed on secondaries

That is quite a bit. If you look at your 600 base plate and adjust the primary screw from fully closed, then about 1 turn in you will see that your transfer slot are about square.