connecting a toploader to a 545?

Hey all. it's parts gathering time again. before i buy i would like some advise.

the engine is a mild 545 about 550 hp 650 tq (estimates from dyno 200 software.) externally ballanced
the trans is a big in big out toploader from a 68 galaxie.
car is an fe 3 on the tree 65 mercury (sort of!) intended use is 80% street some occasional trips to the track.
weighs 3800 lbs (stock with fe motor me in it and a half tank of gas)

i do not have a bell or any clutch components yet. i had been considering a stock 90's truck flywheel, but i don't think that a stock 'wheel is a good idea anymore (saw an old thread where a member had one let go on him).

so what do you manual trans guys use and like?

Thanks
Mike

You have 2 choices SFI or factory pieces. Lakewood makes a good blow proof bell , I think there are other manufacturers that do as well. Hays makes a SFI flywheel. Or you can use a 351m-400m manual trans bellhousing available out of most 1970's to 80's 4x4 Broncos, or a 429-460 manual trans housing. Factory flywheel will have to match your engine balance, External will need 460 counterbalanced. If you plan on launching hard buy the SFI stuff, it could save your car and your life. If its just a street machine your not that hard on then the factory parts will do.

I think i will go with the sfi stuff for peace of mind (i probably will be hard on it from time to time!). what do you use for a clutch? i don't really know what direction to go there at all. what brands seem to be popular with stick shift racers?

Thanks
Mike

I use the Hays mark 12 #39-606 pressure plate. You have to have a flywheel thats drilled for 12 hold down bolts instead of the usual 6. It's an explosion resistant cover with centrifical weights . I use the Hays matching disc with it. It's pretty high peddle pressure, but has held up well. I'm running the 10.5 M/T wrinkle wall slick, and this setup so far is still on its first disc, thats pretty good. Technology has moved forward though and I hear good things about the dual friction discs on the market now and might try one of Centerforces lighter peddle pressure plates and the dual friction disc in the future. Reason I'm still currently using Hays is because I've been using them since the late 1970's and have had long service out of their products. The only other trick I use in my toploader is Redlines "high shock" 90w synthetic gear oil.

thanks for the info! if that setup will work on your unit, then it should be just fine for me!!

I'm running the Center Force clutch in my wagon very nice set up. Holds really well with the heavy car. No problems.

I'd use an alum wheel to keep the hit down in between gear changes and a long style (Ram pressure plate with 1800 lbs static) and a sintered bronze puck disk with a 4.5 FC...that's a nice combo for big engined heavy street cars.
I use something like that except less static pressure and a bit more disk in my 800 hp 3800 lb street car.

this is my GTX leaving in second gear...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YilvlLxgv9U

There was a member some time ago that built a really nice Boss 429 stroker. If I can remember, he ran it on the dyno and flywheel let loose? Jacked his motor up, busted the block if I remember. Dont be cheap. Your legs and feet are worth the extra money.

Tom

a great point. i plan to use an aftermarket flywheel and a scatter shield. for those verry reasons! (i saw that thread and video, i was going to use stock stuff untill that) hopefully spring breakup (the time of year when almost all oil and gas work stops here) isn't too bad so i can use my savings for car parts instead of rent and bills and junk like that!

you can physically bolt it up no prob but I think the problem you are going to have is if you build any power at all it will RIP the top loader to pieces they were only rated at around 400ft lbs torque....


Randy

I have the big block version. it has a good reputation for being able to take abuse. my motor is pretty mild for a 545 also with it's dual plane intake and hyd flat tappet cam. the car will be mostly street, rpm will be 6000 and less, and i will keep the power shifting to a minimum (i might be lying to myself on that one!) if it does break i will rebuild it with upgraded internals. or get a jericho.

the guy i bought it off of had it for a backup on his 10 second (iirc) cougar. it took him years of drag racing to hurt his primary trans so hopefully it lasts for a while for me