Who's good with Ford OEM Holley identification?... I'm not, lol

So I got this Holley carb body and I can tell from the casting number on the choke tower that it seems to be OEM from Ford. Other than that I don't know much about it. What I've been able to decipher from internet searching is that it was probably made/used in 1968 (C8) and it was made in the 4th week of June, I think. Does anyone have any better info that that? Thanks for any help you can give me.

The markings on it seem to be C8OF-9510-AA, LIST-1174, 864

nickpohlaandp wrote:So I got this Holley carb body and I can tell from the casting number on the choke tower that it seems to be OEM from Ford. Other than that I don't know much about it. What I've been able to decipher from internet searching is that it was probably made/used in 1968 (C8) and it was made in the 4th week of June, I think. Does anyone have any better info that that? Thanks for any help you can give me.

The markings on it seem to be C8OF-9510-AA, LIST-1164, 864

http://www.s-techent.com/Shelby_Web_Pages/Holley-Ford/Holley-Ford.htm

Your list number is not jiving with the Ford number.

The Closest I see is a 4169 ( 428CJ) on the link.

My old Holley book only shows 4168. Your list number is not in it either and would be in the late 1950's range if it was.

If it is a 428CJ it should have down leg boosters in the secondaries.

I updated the LIST #. I entered it in wrong.

http://www.mustangtek.com/4150/C8OF-9510-AA.html

TommyK wrote:http://www.mustangtek.com/4150/C8OF-9510-AA.html

Very cool. Too bad I don't have the whole carb. I only have the body. Think it's worth selling for someone looking for an original part, or should I just go ahead and use it?

Personally I would get a new carb and pop the body you have up on ebay.

TommyK wrote:Personally I would get a new carb and pop the body you have up on ebay.

I'll poly blast it to clean it up and make it look nice. What do you think a fair price for that is? I'm no good with this stuff.

Quick poly blast and it looks better. I'll do a better job tomorrow.

I wouldn't blast it. Just clean it up as best you can with carb cleaner.

To someone who is restoring a carb that needs a correctly date coded main body it could be worth a few bucks. It may take a long time to find that person though. If you are not in a hurry I would probably put it up with a BIN of 250-300 with a make offer option.

TommyK wrote:I wouldn't blast it. Just clean it up as best you can with carb cleaner.

To someone who is restoring a carb that needs a correctly date coded main body it could be worth a few bucks. It may take a long time to find that person though. If you are not in a hurry I would probably put it up with a BIN of 250-300 with a make offer option.

Thanks for the info. I'll probably do that if it could fetch that much $. I've already blasted it in those pics, I used poly media which is non abrasive, it just removed crap. Same thing as dipping and scrubbing but a lot faster. I wouldn't blast it with glass bead or anything like that. That'd invite corrosion like a mofo.

Don't blast it anymore. It's a List Number 4174 1968 1/2 CJ Auto Trans (Not 4 Speed like Mustangtek) per Holley Parts and Specs Manual. It also appears to have a correct date code for a factory installed carburetor. It may fetch around $150.00 or so. You could try the $250-300 BIN first as previously stated and see what happens.
Metering blocks are 5673 primary and 5671 secondary. I  would not bother putting it back together as the bowls, baseplate  and blocks are quite expensive.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-4174-C8OF-AA-1968-Shelby-KR-mustang-428-CJ-4-speed-RESTORED-873-date/282683838663?epid=1129944188&hash=item41d14510c7:g:smcAAOSwo4pYVDr-&vxp=mtr

Give this guy a call. He has one for sale and restores them and may want it?

supervel45 wrote:https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-4174-C8OF-AA-1968-Shelby-KR-mustang-428-CJ-4-speed-RESTORED-873-date/282683838663?epid=1129944188&hash=item41d14510c7:g:smcAAOSwo4pYVDr-&vxp=mtr

Give this guy a call. He has one for sale and restores them and may want it?

I hit him up with the "Contact Seller" deal to see what he has to say. I'll wait to hear from him. I was able to find the correct metering blocks in the pile of parts. No bowls or baseplate though. Oh well.

Those metering blocks may bring $100.00 to $150.00 for both. I would list them individually.

If you wanted to build it just as a runner you could get a cheap 3310 and rob the bowls, baseplate, choke, and vacuum pod off of it, they will interchange.