AMSoil

Just looking at using 60# racing oil in my race car? Anyone using it? Pros and Cons? Anything better out there you would suggest?

Farmer wrote:Just looking at using 60# racing oil in my race car?  Anyone using it?  Pros and Cons?  Anything better out there you would suggest?

60 weight ??? ... do you have a fueler of alcohol dragster ...?

Run the dominator series of oil in whatever weight you feel comfortable with. Run it in everything I own and my junior dragsters before the new dragster.

I wouldn’t get near 60 with out a very good reason and special setup on the engine

dfree383 wrote:I wouldn’t get near 60 with out a very good reason and special setup on the engine

^^^^^this!

Sheared distributor roll pins, here we come!!

Farmer wrote:Just looking at using 60# racing oil in my race car?  Anyone using it?  Pros and Cons?  Anything better out there you would suggest?

Very high, single viscosity oils are usually utilized in very high horsepower racing engines that are run with notably wide clearances and need the thick oil.  Most people here running "carbs and gas" builds are better off with lower, multi-viscosity oils.  What kind of car and horsepower are you running? I think Amsoil makes excellent synthetic base stock lubricants.

BBFTorino wrote:Sheared distributor roll pins, here we come!!

Do you mean from the thick oil? Distributor roll pins typically shear downward, not rotationally, and the oil viscosity can be 0-wt when the pin shears downward.  If you shear a pin rotationally then you probably locked up the oil pump with something solid.  60-wt does not lock up pumps, it's oil.

It's not uncommon over here for us to run 70-wt, and even sometimes spike the 70-wt with Lucas Oil Stabilizer if the nitro-methane is in the 85% or higher (ie, thicker than 70-wt).  And that's while using a high volume oil pump with a 1-inch pickup tube. Triple digit oil pressure at startup, zero problems.

Paul Kane wrote:

BBFTorino wrote:Sheared distributor roll pins, here we come!!

Do you mean from the thick oil? Distributor roll pins typically shear downward, not rotationally, and the oil viscosity can be 0-wt when the pin shears downward.  If you shear a pin rotationally then you probably locked up the oil pump with something solid.  60-wt does not lock up pumps, it's oil.

It's not uncommon over here for us to run 70-wt, and even sometimes spike the 70-wt with Lucas Oil Stabilizer if the nitro-methane is in the 85% or higher (ie, thicker than 70-wt).  And that's while using a high volume oil pump with a 1-inch pickup tube. Triple digit oil pressure at startup, zero problems.

I don't doubt it. I've seen a fair share of failed roll pins....also the twisted up oil pump drive shaft.
But I'm assuming the OP is running 'regular street/street-strip clearances.

BBFTorino wrote:

Paul Kane wrote:

BBFTorino wrote:Sheared distributor roll pins, here we come!!

Do you mean from the thick oil? Distributor roll pins typically shear downward, not rotationally, and the oil viscosity can be 0-wt when the pin shears downward.  If you shear a pin rotationally then you probably locked up the oil pump with something solid.  60-wt does not lock up pumps, it's oil...

...I'm assuming the OP is running 'regular street/street-strip clearances.

Street/Strip clearances in his "race car?"

Nonetheless, same answer as I posted above.

By the way in this particular scenario that you proposed (60-wt with street/strip clearances) the pump would just be in constant bypass.

Neither Ford nor Melling would use a distributor pin or bypass pressure which were incompatible with one another.

You can't rely on the roll pin alone, it is not adequate. You MUST have press fit on the gear or it will constantly fail. Another thing to be concerned with on 60 and 70 wt oils is lack of corrosion inhibitors. long term use ( several thousand miles) can cause parts to rust! If you want to "get rid of it" mix it with 30w or 5w30 to "cut" down the viscosity.

Thank you guys I was hoping that someone would have used this oil I used 15/50 amsoil but they told me they didn't make it anymore So i went to the 60#. it seems to be a lot thinner than a 40# Valvoline our about the same

Farmer wrote:Thank you guys I was hoping that someone would have used this oil I used 15/50 amsoil but they told me they didn't make it anymore So i went to the 60#. it seems to be a lot thinner than a 40# Valvoline our about the same

Viscosity is measured "pourability" at a certain temperature; not how thick the oil is at room temperature.

EDIT:
Maybe your distributor will not carry it any longer but, the AmsOil web site says they still offer 15W-50 "Dominator" racing oil; if it is up to date.
However, they also offer a 0W-20 which isn't even shown.

Someday I might learn to not have all the typos before I click "send".

If you’re looking for 15/50, Mobil 1 has one. You might not find it at Walmart but parts stores have it.

Farmer wrote:Thank you guys I was hoping that someone would have used this oil I used 15/50 amsoil but they told me they didn't make it anymore...

Still not sure about your engine build but Amsoil still have a couple of 20w-50 options in their line-up.  And I agree that the Mobil 15w-50 is a fine lube and also a great value at Walmart.

Farmer wrote:... i went to the 60#. it seems to be a lot thinner than a 40# Valvoline our about the same

As Randy said viscosity is a measure of a fluid's resistance to pouring and most synthetic lubricants are engineered to maintain their intended viscosity over a very wide temperature range; therefore, the viscosity of a synthetic doesn't change much from cold weather, to room temp, to operating temp like a petroleum based oil (ie, 60-wt synthetic will seem "thinner" at room temp than 40-wt Valvoream).