getting the oil filter threaded insert out of the block for oiling mods...

does not have the flat sides (hex)...

use two nuts to get it off?

I have used a cold chisel but sometimes the insert does not survive

dkp

i'm debating whether to open up the filter hole and passages to 9/16". they are already 1/2" and I think the Kasse pump is only 1/2" orifice anyway. I really dont see how a 1/16" increase is gonna increase flow all that much. Although I would still like to radius the blend for flow.

quote from Paul Kane

Relative to the specific block oiling mod in question: it doesn't matter whether any oil pump's exit gallery is 1/2-inch or 9/16-inch diameter. It's the block gallery that needs the attention. Enlarging the pump-to-filter pad makes a very noiticable difference in oil pressure behavior by virtue of the improved ability for the oil in the pump to replenish the downstream oil which is bleeding off from the mating parts of the engine, regardless of whether the pump is standard volume, high volume, 1/2-inch exit gallery or 9/16-inch exit gallery. I tell my clients and customers that if there is any one, single oiling mod that they should do to their passenger car block, it is to enlarge the pump-to-filter pad to 9/16-inch.

can I just open up the pump pad hole, and not the passage to the filter...or just do both.

Thoughts?

If you want to take a pair of vice grips, or something, and get the plug out, I have a extra plug you are welcome to.

Thanks I might take you up on that...Paul Kane has the ones radiussed I believe...and what Im really afraid of is fukin up one thats in the block and still not be able to get it out. this mod and the dist. mod is all I have left to do...

We put vice grips on mine, it backed out pretty easy, glad it is working out for you.

tried two nuts.... this thing wont budge. gonna heat it up with a propane torch.

dist. and oil drain backs finished front and rear. opened the oil filter inlet (pump pad) to 9/16"

just trying to get this damn thing off.

A tool designed to remove broken bolts will work. Needs to be large enough to grab the nipple internally. It will leave some boogie marks on the interior of the nipple but it will get it out. A cartridge roll will clean those up easily enough.

I got it off... pretty much all done with the mods. thanks for the help.

Glad it all worked out good. It always makes ya feel good when you accomplish something you thought was really hard. Good deal man

dist. mod scared me a little cause of the possibility of breaking the bit... but a little oil, and 25,000 rmps does wonders.

drivers side front drain back hole went better than I thought. and opening the passage to 9/16" from the filter side to the pick up pad had to pretty much be dead straight. everything else were no brainers. thanks for the encouragement, and tips.

Most of time its a breeze, exspecially if its got a hex somewhere. Mine took a foot long pipe wrench and about 250lbs to break it loose. It cracked down middle and started to fold up. I didnt think i was going to get it till i got ruff lol. Old metals sometimes dont give it up easy.., ED

Snap on makes an internal pipe or bolt remover what has a swival incert and you can slide it in and remove it pretty easy....


Randy

You can get the same internal pipe wrench, set of 3, from Sears for under 20 bux.
FYI, the thread in the block is 1 1/16 X12 Tpi. Sane as AN -12.