Building headers?

chuck wrote:I'll never build another set with out them.

That's one of those "why didn't I think of that" deals! I love the idea of no slag on the inside of the tubes. Has to help, and inexpensive too.

I can see where those "weld rings" might come in handy when Mig welding the thin wall header tubing so there's no slag buildup inside the tube. But I doubt they would really be beneficial when Tig welding. This is because the weld ring it's self would most likely be a larger restriction inside the tube than a proper sized Tig puddle ever could be.

You don't have to use any filler rod, when tig weld is used. Plus when your fitting them up on the car they will hold the tubes together with out a tack weld most of the time. If you ever try them, I think you'll like them.

chuck wrote:You don't have to use any filler rod, when tig weld is used. Plus when your fitting them up on the car they will hold the tubes together with out a tack weld most of the time. If you ever try them, I think you'll like them.

I have seen them, I still like my way better. The splits in the weld rings can sometimes create alignment problems if a header tube's weld joint is cut from the bend section of a tight J-bend vs a straight section.


Plus the "no filler rod needed" thing is not going to be much help when Tig welding if your wanting silicon/bronze as the filler material at the weld joint instead of having 100% steel filler material. And when all is said & done the ring it's self is still an added restriction inside the tube vs no ring at all.

In my opinion simple hose clamps with 3, 4, or 5 holes drilled around them are the best alignment tool. The drilled holes provide convenient "windows" to tack weld the tube joint with a steel filler rod. Then you remove the hose clamps & finish up the welding with a silicon/bronze rod.

Thanks for the idea, I'm always willing to learn!