Early Mustang Race Car Help

Hello Folks,

I have a 68 mustang (fastback if you cared) that I've decided to hack up real good. It will really only see the rack, ladder bar/4-link rear, and as for the front, well I'm undecided. I was hoping to find some folks that have 10-12pt cages as a minimum but would really like to find some full chassis cars, 25.5/3 because that's what I plan on doing. There's not many out there so i hope i came to the right place!

The best thing to do is buy the sfi blueprints and have at it. Mines a homebuilt backhalf/strut front half deal, to do over I'd cut it all out and go the tube route..........which is still a possibility.

I have all the SFI books 25.1-5, i was more or less hoping to talk to some people who have done this and can tell me what im getting into, and had some photos. i wish the car was in front of me but i wont be for a month or two....

sweet just what i was looking for!

well if you are looking for something like that get the check book out cuz you are looking at 20,000+ for chassis bare and then you have tin work, drive line, wheels. and the list goes on and on so maybe around 60, to 70,000 by the time it is thru...... depending on how extravagant you want to go....



Randy

Randy,

A good estimate I must admit. Lucky as I am though i have a tig welder, tube bender, end-mill, friend with a machine shop, and work for a company that drag races cars in it's spare time. So i think I have my angles covered, I'm just here to tap the knowledge that have already accomplished this task ( building a 60 era mustang race car).

sounds like a cool deal! post pictures of the progress as it develops! thanks

What is the interned use for this full chassis car?

If it's just going to be for bracket racing, (and you want to be able to cert to 7.50's and slower) then a mild steel chassis built to SFI 25.4 specs is probably something to think about. With the 25.4 spec you could also spend the extra money and choose 'moly tubing over mild steel. But realistically using 'moly in that situation (vs ms) would be more about resale value down the road than it would be about weight loss.

If you want to build a full chassis '68 as low as possible, (but still have a ton of driver leg room), then a 4-link is really about your only choice. With a ladder bar setup in that same situation (because of it's longer length) you usually have to choose between a low slung car with less driver room, or more driver room with a car that sits higher in the rear. If having a real low chassis/body ride height isn't really a concern, then either setup is an option.

As far as the front suspension goes, with a 108" wheel base, and using anything approaching the 7 to 10% engine setback range, there should be plenty of room up front for a decent header shape with either the strut setup or the A-arm/spindle setup. Of course if your looking for maximum engine room & also max resale value, then struts are the way to go.

And of course if you want to go 7.49 & faster then all 'moly tubing and either SFI 25.1E or 25.2 is your only choice.



You can also check out this post for pics on another new car build for some more good build ideas.

https://www.429-460.com/chassis-tech-f3/2010-ts-mustang-in-the-works-t3508.htm

the Coug wrote:well if you are looking for something like that get the check book out cuz you are looking at 20,000+ for chassis bare and then you have tin work, drive line, wheels. and the list goes on and on so maybe around 60, to 70,000 by the time it is thru...... depending on how extravagant you want to go....



Randy

Well he might have 70k to work with Coug................. Either way I like to see someone take interest in the early iron.

richter69 wrote:

the Coug wrote:well if you are looking for something like that get the check book out cuz you are looking at 20,000+ for chassis bare and then you have tin work, drive line, wheels. and the list goes on and on so maybe around 60, to 70,000 by the time it is thru...... depending on how extravagant you want to go....



Randy

Well he might have 70k to work with Coug................. Either way I like to see someone take interest in the early iron.

Thats only $5,000 more than the new 2011 F-350's , aparently a lot of people have this extra dough. I would say $8,000 to $12,000 would buy a complete decent mild steel chassis to put your body over on minus the driveline, wheels tires and suspension peices.

Travis