xbeaing's

What #wt and what type oil r u running.
Usually the plasti gage is not off that much. You were checking w/o oil on the journal hopefully.

just a bit of wd-40
but i am gonna check it again tonight when i get home
and see if it close
i klnow plastic gauge is the best but i agree
it should not be off that much
i run 20-50
i usally run val 20-50
than switch to brad pen 20-50 after a few run's

rmcomprandy wrote:JEEZ ... you guy's like some WIDE clearances.
Clearance is your friend with marginal parts which flex but, I don't go anywhere near that big when good, strong parts are used.

I guess everyone has their pet sizes...

So you publicly disagree, but have no feedback to explain your differences in opinion.

What is the difference in flex in a Scat and Bryant forged crank? in your opinion
What is the difference in marginal parts such as Eagle, Scat, Manley, Callies? in your opinion
What are good, strong parts? in your opinion
Is Jesse using what you would call good, strong parts? in your opinion
What weight oil do you clearance for?
Do you set up street motors the same as your would for a puller? Drag? Boat?
If you were setting up an engine with marginal parts, where would your clearances be?

JEEZ, so many variables.

bbf-falcon wrote:

342g wrote:So what clearance for 20-50 Brad-Penn oil?

Harold,
Do they make that oil in 10w30 or straight #30

Rick, I talked to Steve this morning, he said he could get the Brad Penn in 10-30, but for the h.p. gain involved he would recommend the 20-50, for the lubrication value, on the dyno, the 10-30- got 4 more h.p., so I agree with him, I'll stay with 20-50.

Jesse, I always like having the journal dry when I check clearance ,it's just the way I was taught. I've never tried it w/wd. I think probably mostly all Pro engine builders would agree the best way would be w/a bore gage and a mic. I 'am going to buy me a bore gage ,I have a set of mic's.

The 20w50 oils imo would def. need the wider clearances,and of coarce a LITTLE less w/lighter wt's. Don't just take my word for these suggestions,go w/what the pro's tell you. This has always worked for me. Lem Evans has led me by the hand w/some good sugestions. Good Luck on the build.

342g wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

342g wrote:So what clearance for 20-50 Brad-Penn oil?

Harold,
Do they make that oil in 10w30 or straight #30

Rick, I talked to Steve this morning, he said he could get the Brad Penn in 10-30, but for the h.p. gain involved he would recommend the 20-50, for the lubrication value, on the dyno, the 10-30- got 4 more h.p., so I agree with him, I'll stay with 20-50.

lem has been a great help to me on this and my other builds
and trust what he tells me
i just like to get other ppl's opions also
i know what i want in clearinces
and i perfer 20-50 oil for what i do with my motor
are my parts good?
well it is the best i can do with my budget
is there better parts out there?
i am shure they are
would i run a bryant crank if i could afford one
yea i would
do i trust my scatt crank?
well it is race motor any parts can let go at anytime
i just did the best i could with what i could do
i decided to spend more money on rod's,pistons
danny bee
kasse oil pump
it just made sence to me
and i hope i made the right choice

"DITTO"

jesse wrote:lem has been a great help to me on this and my other builds
and trust what he tells me

Lem is a giant help to all of us on here. Some listen better than others, some have their own opinions. He is one of the few that will always make himself available to you at most any time. I'm sure your combo suits you well. 20-50 oil is a good choice for that type of torture.

well i checked it with plastic gauge
(dry) it came out to 3 with half x's and half std
i am happy with that
yes i know plastic gauge isnt the best way
but i was just useing for cheap ins
few days ago i barley had 2 thou with std bearings
tonight i had 3 with x's and std's
and it was completly dry

Always use plasti-gauge dry or you wont get accurate results.

A POX on Plasti-gauge.

POX?

Pox = disaster, something evil or maybe both

Hey its better than not checkin em at all.

anyone ever use telescoping gauges to measure your rod ends? I have those, but not yet a dial bore gauge...

Hey its better than not checkin em at all.

thats kinda what i thought?
but i dont think chuck read this post from the start
and must have thought i only used plastic gauge

I have a real good machinist and he knows the clearances that I want so I don't worry too much. I always use the plasti gage to make sure he hasn't slipped up. I will not assemble a engine w/o checking EVERY journal.

I read the whole thang. There is a thing, about Plastigauge, you see. IF it sets for a long time...it gets hard. Hard enough to press a dent in soft bearings. When it does that...it "reads" looser (more clearance) than what it actually is. I got caught by this once, never again. Granted, it's better than nothing but, be sure it's fresh, soft stuff. If you can snap a piece in two with your fingers, like spaghetti, DON'T believe what it tells you.

thanxs for the advice chuck
good to know
the stuff i used was new
but eather way i only use it for a 2nd opion on clearinces
mic and a bore gauge is the best in my opion
i always assumed plastic gauge never got old
but it is cheap so i just use it and toss it and or loose it

Always check, double check, check again that way you always know what you got.

.0035 even as much as .004 works good with 20-50 @85-9000 which is what Jesse will likely be turning. Even works very well on BBCs with their smaller journals.

Bret

lol well i hope the motoro will turn 8500-9000
but i would be happpy with 7500-8000
that is what i like to run and the truck combo seem's to like that
rpm area witch the gear choice's i have
but on sertin tracks i hope i have enof power to spin it to a possible 9000
to get that extra inch
and 20-50 is what i perfer to run

Plastigage is better than nothing. But only "just"...

The bearing engineer who worked with me at F-M was fond of stating that when guys ran over .0030 his phone would ring. When they were under .0030 his phone would not ring. Therefor the proper clearance was something under .0030".

Realistically anywhere between .0025 and .0035 is likely to be OK if everything else is straight, round, fine and the tuneup is decent. If the tuneup is detonation prone or on the edge more clearance will help crutch the situation. This can include non-engine issues like tire shake or trans/driveline flex.

If you get too far away from the target range you lose the oil's ability to form a hydrodynamic wedge due to leakage. The bearing eccentricy profile works like a pump to resist cylinder pressure - 80 psi of oil is just the supply feed - it cannot resist 2000psi of burning fuel... we made bearings for huge industrial engines that still ran startlingly tight clearances even though they were three feet in diameter.