anyone useing oil accumulator's

been thinking about useing one
just wanted to see what was out there and possibly some pic's of some set up's
thanxs

Have used one for the last 8 years, wouldn't run it without one. Get the 3qt deal and the electric valve, tied mine into the ign switch, always primes the motor.

Started running one last year and love it. I've got the Moroso 3 qt. with the electric valve. I've got mine tied to the ignition toggle switch also but I have another toggle switch in line with it in case I want to turn on the ignition and fuel pumps without priming the motor.

richter69 wrote:Have used one for the last 8 years, wouldn't run it without one. Get the 3qt deal and the electric valve, tied mine into the ign switch, always primes the motor.

Same here, I turn mine on prime motor, turn back off hit start turn switch back on, fire in the hole.

sounds like a very good thing
i am gonna order on up tomorro
well if the wife say ok
besides the accumulator
what else do i need
i would like to have it to prime motor befor every start
i can do that on a seprat switch
since i have a toggle switch for every thing in the truck
anyone on the forum sell this stuff?

Moroso or Canton are the ones i know of. I use a Moroso and the electric valve as well. Don't for get the mounting hardware also

Ace

richter69 wrote:Have used one for the last 8 years, wouldn't run it without one. Get the 3qt deal and the electric valve, tied mine into the ign switch, always primes the motor.

x2

jesse wrote:sounds like a very good thing
i am gonna order on up tomorro
well if the wife say ok
besides the accumulator
what else do i need
i would like to have it to prime motor befor every start
i can do that on a seprat switch
since i have a toggle switch for every thing in the truck
anyone on the forum sell this stuff?

Just keep in mind if you put it on its own switch that you'll want to turn that switch off first every time before you shut the motor off. If you leave the switch on and kill the motor the piston may push the oil back into the motor before you turn that switch off. Then you won't have a "charged" cylinder to prime the motor with when you start it back up the next time. It actually works pretty well when its tied in with the ignition toggle. That way you don't have to remember to turn it off separately. The only reason I put another switch in series was so I could turn my fuel pumps on (which are also on my ignition switch) to check for leaks, fuel pressure etc. Just a thought. One thing you don't want to do is prime the motor then turn the switch off and run it because that leaves an extra 2.5 to 3 quarts of oil in the pan while you are running.

my valve is tied into the ign, I have another toggle in the circuit to be able to turn the ign on to playback the run on the tach and not purge the accumulator, always put it back in the on pos when I'm done.

tireing to my ign switch would be the best
i have enof stuff to turn on and off anyhow
my fuel has it's own switch as well as my water,fans,hyd steering
as far as pipeit in
do i need a external remote oil filter set up?
i have never hooked on up befor
and i am clueless as to what i need to do it
so any help with part#s and what i need would be great
do they have a kit?

Plumb it directly into the oil hole behing the mechanical fuel pump location and take your oil pressure from the rear; (if you have a production block).
Be sure to use an oil filter with an "anti drain back flapper valve" in it.

i got an svo block
should i still plumb to the block

jesse wrote:i got an svo block
should i still plumb to the block

Yes ... but now you need a "T" for the oil pressure as the rear location doesn't give a correct PSI oil pressure reading, depending upon what the restriction to the lifter galleries is.

jesse wrote:i got an svo block
should i still plumb to the block

Jesse...where else would you get oil pressure readings?

rmcomprandy wrote:

jesse wrote:i got an svo block
should i still plumb to the block

Yes ... but now you need a "T" for the oil pressure as the rear location doesn't give a correct PSI oil pressure reading, depending upon what the restriction to the lifter galleries is.

Are you thinking about the Eliminator block?

i ment the back of ther block sorry

that is were i always plumb my oil gauge to

got the accumulator orded up today thanxs lem&shawn

Its an old pic but you can see the line running from the cowl area where the accumulator is, -10 to the port, I take my oil press reading from the port on the top rear of the block......if I got 70 psi hot there I'm positive the bottom end has at least that. Valve is on the accumulator.

thanxs
you just answered my other question with that pic
how to get my motor plate to work with the danny bee

since we dont have any rules saying we have to have it outside
i am gonna mount it in the truck so i can see the gauge and run the valve manualy
thanxs for the help guy's

Lem Evans wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

jesse wrote:i got an svo block
should i still plumb to the block

Yes ... but now you need a "T" for the oil pressure as the rear location doesn't give a correct PSI oil pressure reading, depending upon what the restriction to the lifter galleries is.

Are you thinking about the Eliminator block?

NO, with the A460 ... the larger the restricting hole in the rear lifter gallery, the lower the maximum will read in the rear; (unless you drill that passageway larger, leading to the threaded oil pressure connection).
A small lifter oil restricting hole will show almost no difference; with full oiling to the lifters using no restriction at all, (as with a racing hydraulic lifter camshaft & lifters), that location as is, will never read more than 40 pounds.

EDIT: The oil going to the upper end bleeds-off the pressure READING at the upper/rear oil pressure location.

Something must have changed...I'm not seeing that to be the case. There is an A460 blocked engine on the dyno at Mike's [as we speak] that had 70 psi at the rear. Solid roller with restricted upper gallery

Same here, big restriction, idles at 50 psi hot, shoots up to 70 with a blip of the throttle............plus it has the accumulator in there dampening the signal. A side note I dont run a factory style pump, belt driven spur gear deal with a 1.5 section. I run that crappy 20-50 oil as well..................

Lem Evans wrote:Something must have changed...I'm not seeing that to be the case. There is an A460 blocked engine on the dyno at Mike's [as we speak] that had 70 psi at the rear. Solid roller with restricted upper gallery

Sounds like you are seing no difference BECAUSE of the restricted upper galleries.
The upper gallery is restricted with probably a rather small restriction. Now, take that restriction out or make it .187" or so and the pressure discrepincy will easily show-up.

I have run those blocks with two oil pressure guages, (one in each position), and varried the lifter gallery restriction to see this phenomina happen; every time with consistancy.
The larger the restricting hole, the lower the maximum oil pressure will READ at the rear. Drill that passageway larger, (all the way to the main gallery), and the discrepincy goes away.

The LATER blocks may already have that oil passagway made larger as it was only about .280".

I've never had a combination that would tolerate a 3/16" restricter...that's the difference I guess.
The biggest was Bob's river ride at 3/32"...flat tappet cam.

Engines used in "Offshore Marine" type applications which run at Wide Open Throttle for hours have a LOT of oil going to the upper end.

What PSI rating are you guys running on your electronic pressure control valve? I see Moroso offers three different ones.
I raced a track with a shorter shutdown this past weekend and was losing pressure under heavy braking....gotta' get me an accumulator for sure before I run there again.
Thanks,
Jeff