what is the best type of break in oil??

i have had a lot people tell me all kinds of oil to use , so i want to ask whats the best.
oh here is the build
a-460 block
a-460 heads
scat 4340 crank
scat 4340 rods ""H""
diamond pistons, 4.600 bore ""evens style""
kasse oil pump
comp cam
tfs t ram intake
coated mains and rod and cam bearings
if u need to know any more ask me.
logan

don't laugh but John Deere has a great break-in oil.

Schaeffer's micron-moly............

whatbumper wrote:don't laugh but John Deere has a great break-in oil.

richter69 wrote:Schaeffer's micron-moly............

OK SO I CAN PULL A PLOW!!!LOL
OK HOW LONG DO U LEAVE IT IN??

ALWAYS, use Valvolean VR-1 high zinc formula. Requires no additives, its the best.

richter69 wrote:
OK HOW LONG DO U LEAVE IT IN??

That's what she said. Just kidding.

i start all my engines with the oil thats going to be run in them,



-rich

BOSS 429 wrote:i start all my engines with the oil thats going to be run in them,



-rich

^^^^^quoted for the truth................I'll run the deal in, make a couple outings then cut the filter open and top it off.

I get oil for free but no since in wasting it.

Joe Gibbs has a really good break in oil. Kinda pricey.

It's hard to say what "best" is . With a roller cam engine VR1 does work well.

I use 10/30 Mobil 1 full synthetic....


Randy

I'm going out on a limb and try the Royal Purple break-in oil and a bottle of comp break-in additive. I kinda have an egressive flat tappet.

Syn. and a flat tappet aint where I'd want to be for run in.

I wouldn't be as concerned about a specific oil for "break-in" as I would doing my "pre-start homework"! As to the oil dilemma, simply use a petroleum based light weight multi-viscosity oil (5W30) and order a bottle of that COMP engine lube stuff from Lem my dear Watson! While your talking to Lem about the COMP stuff, have him send you a oil filter without a by-pass. I suppose your going to toss the oil after an half hour or so, aren't you? Oh, another note. Don't actually toss it, save it for your lawn mower or your old work car.

Dave.

P.S.
Lem, 1 7/8" OD with 3" X 9" at the collector. Primary tubes have quite a variance. By design, long primaries are 30" to 32". Short primaries are 20" or so.

BOSS 429 wrote:i start all my engines with the oil thats going to be run in them,



-rich

the Coug wrote:I use 10/30 Mobil 1 full synthetic....


Randy

Randy, Even the oil Manufacturers tell you not to use syn. FOR breakin. I too use mobil syn. AFTER breakin.

my engines are all roller cammed so break in is start it and run it like you stole it.....


Randy

I'm not talkin Cam,I'm talkin about rings

on the rings Rick I usually start it and run it till start getting heat in the head and shut it off and let it cool and put water in and run it like you stole it....


Randy

bbf-falcon wrote:

the Coug wrote:I use 10/30 Mobil 1 full synthetic....


Randy

Randy, Even the oil Manufacturers tell you not to use syn. FOR breakin. I too use mobil syn. AFTER breakin.

X2, it doesn't have the zinc needed for the break in. So you would need a zinc additive. But the VR1 I suggested is synthetic and has a TON of zinc in it. That's why I recommended it. Perfect for a break-in.

The LS engine than GM produces has synthetic in it from the factory and they last. I don't think the current crop of synthetic oils are really much different on start up than natural oils as far as ring seating is concerned.

We only run the John Deere half and half with our Amsoil on start up. We run it about 10-20 minutes and change it to straight Amsoil and run that from then on. No problems. Engines look brand new after 100's of passes.

i think the coug is beening a smart azz or atleast i hope so?

what about that joe gibbs racing oil heard that was good stuff

jesse wrote:i think the coug is beening a smart azz or atleast i hope so?

Why you can break in the rings by starting the engine with no water in it and let it run till the heads get warm this is just a IDLEING and shut it off and cool it down and fill it with water and run the SOB like you stole it, this just saves you from running it for a while to seat the rings..... or that breaks the rings in..... if you have a hydraulic cam or solid you have to break the cam in the rings will be broke in by the time you get it broke in....... it's not like you run it for an hour it only takes like 5 mins or so....

What world are you guy's from? it is not different than running a motorcycle or 4 wheeler, just with them the have to have air moving to cool.... it won't hurt anything unless you pull a boner and show off and run it longer to show your buddies....



Randy

I dont see an issue with what Randy is talking about as long as you let it idle for no more than 4-5 minutes.

Hell this injection deal what I saw last time out I may just loose the water altogether...............leave the block plugs out...............hmmm, Coug, you still got that cracked A460 block????


It is nice to have the water there to plug the heaters in and get it all toasty though.