Distributor gear roll pin

I just bought an MSD crank trigger distributor. I had not planned on it, but came across a deal that was to good to pass up for a new in box distributor.

It has the bronze gear, but the single roll pin looks sort of weak.

Should I:

1. Replace the stock pin with a hardened pin?
2. Replace the pin with a larger diameter pin? It looks like the factory pin is 1/8". I could drill it out and put a 3/16 pin in.
3. Leave the stock in place and drill a hole for another pin at 90° to the first? This would be my last choice as the shaft would be a like swiss cheese after replacing the gear a couple of times down the road. I have found it's next to impossible to reuse the same holes when replacing the gear and still get the gear placement correct.

I had this same issue. I replaced the spring pin with a 1/8" Coiled Spring Pin much stronger on the shear than std spring pin I purchased them thru McMaster-Carr and then drilled another one 90 degrees from that also ordered some 3/16" pins for next time. I also order some spare shafts from MSD because I had one crack at the hex can't remember but I think they where 20 bucks ea. Yes, it is nearly impossible to replace one that already got two holes. Oh by the way Kasse said at the seminar that the base of the gear to the locating base of the dizzy should be 4.033".

90* and drill for a 5/32" [.156"] pin . Drive a smaller pin in side the 5/32" pin .

Lem Evans wrote:90* and drill for a 5/32" [.156"] pin . Drive a smaller pin in side the 5/32" pin .

what size would that smaller pin be??

Once again I am thanking my lucky stars for my years and years of good luck. I have run clevelands and 460's now for 30 plus years most with 100lbs of cold oil pressure and have only ever lost one of those little pins. And that was on a stocker in a street car. I have even run the ordinary little 1/8 roll pin from time to time. Seems to me the biggest problem here is when the gear is installed incorrectly and the drag on the block shears the pin.

If this is a stock MSD with the Bronze gear from the factory I am betting it already has the coily pin. As long as the clearance checks out you should be good to go.

just my experience. lucky I guess.

dkp

According to my notes Kasse said 4.033 but was that for a aftermarket block? After seeing what Lem posted I remembered that sheet and looked up my info when I rebuild both of my dizzy's and I set mine @ 4.000 and used (2) .156 5/32 coiled pins not 3/16. With a new gear and shaft (new has no holes) I was able to space the pins out more by not using the pre-drilled hole in th gear. I did order 1/8,5/32 & 3/16 and I show a note that with a shaft that already has a hole in it installing two 3/16 pins leaves very little cross section between the pins.

Yea, Bosshoss I wasn't so lucky about 10 yrs ago I guess ripping a guy on the big end takes it toll. Broke one at the finish line once in the semi's, got back to the pit and replaced it with a nail threw it back it together without using a timing light (no time too) and made the final and won later check timing and I was off one dregee (always mark dist location). Anytime there is a reason to keep me from winning I try my best to do what ever it takes to eliminate that issue. That's why this website is so great it it has guys with a vast amount of knowledge

If a guy does 4.033" it'd better be with the end play extended.....otherwise it'll be a bad day.

Lem Evans wrote:If a guy does 4.033" it'd better be with the end play extended.....otherwise it'll be a bad day.

Good Point, Lem I never measured it extended there is allot of play in them.

.030"ish.