Liquid Filled gauges

What do you guys think about Liquid Filled gauges??
are they suppose to be more accurate?
can they be use inside a 9 second car?

I know I can look up all the info I need on THE NET, but I only trust you guys!

Unless your track has speed bumps, I'd say not necessary.

TJ

The only advantage I can see w/LF gauge is they don't jump around.jmo

bbf-falcon wrote:The only advantage I can see w/LF gauge is they don't jump around.jmo

Then that is what I need for my oil pressure guage.

D's557BBF wrote:What do you guys think about Liquid Filled gauges??
are they suppose to be more accurate?
can they be use inside a 9 second car?

I know I can look up all the info I need on THE NET, but I only trust you guys!

That's what I run in my 7 second Mustang, I'd think they would work in a 9 second car.....

Nevs wrote:

D's557BBF wrote:What do you guys think about Liquid Filled gauges??
are they suppose to be more accurate?
can they be use inside a 9 second car?

I know I can look up all the info I need on THE NET, but I only trust you guys!

That's what I run in my 7 second Mustang, I'd think they would work in a 9 second car.....

Nevs, how long have you been running them? have they ever leaked the liquid out??

I use the non filled type, they might bounce some, I never watch them during the run anyway, so a little variation wont hurt a thing IMO

richter69 wrote:I use the non filled type, they might bounce some, I never watch them during the run anyway, so a little variation wont hurt a thing IMO

So from what everybody is saying, the liquid is to keep the needle from bouncing all round during a run. They are NOT more accurate then the non-Liquid type...

D's557BBF wrote:

richter69 wrote:I use the non filled type, they might bounce some, I never watch them during the run anyway, so a little variation wont hurt a thing IMO

So from what everybody is saying, the liquid is to keep the needle from bouncing all round during a run. They are NOT more accurate then the non-Liquid type...

fluid is there to keep the vibrations from bouncing the needle..............be it from vibration transfered through the mounting etc.

D's557BBF wrote:

Nevs wrote:

D's557BBF wrote:What do you guys think about Liquid Filled gauges??
are they suppose to be more accurate?
can they be use inside a 9 second car?

I know I can look up all the info I need on THE NET, but I only trust you guys!

That's what I run in my 7 second Mustang, I'd think they would work in a 9 second car.....

Nevs, how long have you been running them? have they ever leaked the liquid out??

Been running the liquid filled gauges since about 1997. Had a leakage issue on a fuel pressure gauge once, Autometer covered it under warranty.

The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

sure will........

i have a liquid filled tach

johndickjr wrote:i have a liquid filled tach

I have a liquid filled flask.

342g wrote:

johndickjr wrote:i have a liquid filled tach

I have a liquid filled flask.

well lets do something about that


like emty it

johndickjr wrote:i have a liquid filled tach

my roof leaked in the garage and it got rain in it..lol

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

Still may be correct

I will stick to my Liquid filled....


Randy

bbf-falcon wrote:

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

Still may be correct

Well I had heard and read this various times over the years and the liquid filled gauge I had would creep up from 6 lbs to 9 lbs when it was hot. I swapped the gauge out to a non liquid filled one and it read 6 lbs all the time.

I use liquid filled gauges at work on the high viberating stuff or on high pressure punches regular gauges on every thing ealse if you are off roading I could see the extra cost but on the drag strip I don't just my 2 cents I am going to use the extra cost of the oil filled on something ealse, at work one don't out last the other ,they last about the same

my nos psi and my fuel psi guages mounted outside are all liquid filled ....because of the vibration

jasonf wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

Still may be correct

Well I had heard and read this various times over the years and the liquid filled gauge I had would creep up from 6 lbs to 9 lbs when it was hot. I swapped the gauge out to a non liquid filled one and it read 6 lbs all the time.

I have a liquid filled gauge on the bypass regulator on my 7.3 diesel, after I put it on I noticed the pressure would read 5 or so psi higher..............you have to snip the vent on the top of the guage.....................worked fine after that..............until the thing turned all black inside and now you cant read it at all lol.

richter69 wrote:

jasonf wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

Still may be correct

Well I had heard and read this various times over the years and the liquid filled gauge I had would creep up from 6 lbs to 9 lbs when it was hot. I swapped the gauge out to a non liquid filled one and it read 6 lbs all the time.

I have a liquid filled gauge on the bypass regulator on my 7.3 diesel, after I put it on I noticed the pressure would read 5 or so psi higher..............you have to snip the vent on the top of the guage.....................worked fine after that..............until the thing turned all black inside and now you cant read it at all lol.

Like what Jon said, below is what is in Autometer’s instructions, as long as you keep the shiny side up, it should not leak any of the oil out of them.
I know at work we use oil filled Marsh gauges and when we get them out of the box they sometimes are not at zero, we just remove the rubber plug on the top of the gauge and let it vent or equalize to our altitude then reinstall the rubber plug.


INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
25/8" LIQUID-FILLED GAUGES
With vent screw in upright position, turn screw two
turns counterclockwise to equalize gauge case
pressure. This allows the gauge to breathe through
thread clearances and to self-adjust to changes in
altitude, barometric pressure and temperature.
NOTE: Extreme vibration and shock may cause
gauge fluid to leak through vent screw. DO
NOT over tighten. If vent screw is tightened,
consult the chart at right. If necessary, bleed
gauge after altitude or temperature change.
Vent Screw
GAUGE READING CONDITION
1 PSI Low 30̊ F. Temp. Rise
1 PSI High 2000 ft. Altitude Increase

They do make a mess when they leak.

jasonf wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:

jasonf wrote:The only ones to avoid are the 1 1/8" liquid filled fuel pressure gauge that you mount right by the carb. When they get hot they seem to read higher pressure.

Still may be correct

Well I had heard and read this various times over the years and the liquid filled gauge I had would creep up from 6 lbs to 9 lbs when it was hot. I swapped the gauge out to a non liquid filled one and it read 6 lbs all the time.

Just great! I just spent the extra money for a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge to go on the carb. Bought a Russel 0-16psi.