Ultra Bell?

Bought a new Ultra Bell/Ultra Case for the T-Bird.

Do you guys that use the Ultra Bell also use the stamped steel "block protector" plate that goes between the trans and engine block from the factory?

I have heard from some that I need to use the plate to locate the starter correctly while others say the Ultra Bell locates the starter just fine.

I would use the plate, but I also have a thin steel (.100") mid plate from Alston. The mid plate is just a half moon deal with holes for the bellhousing bolts and dowels. No starter hole. It doesn't extend that far down. I'm concerned that If I stack the mid plate and block plate I will get into some converter spacing issues.

I have a mid plate in my car.

I just use the steel mid plate, starter goes right to the bell, converter was set up for this application.

i use a midplate and the factory plate.dam good thing cuz my converter was on the "close"side of worken. if you have a lota room between the t/c and f/w you can shim it to work fine.

I've always used a mid plate. You just have to have the covertor spaced right. No big deal. The good thing about a PG bell, is if you need to borrow one, you can.

David,
This a controversial topic, but I am a firm beliver in using the factory stamped block plate, trimmed to open up the lower driver's side and to clear the flat portion of the Ultra Bell. I put the trimmed plate against the 'Bell and also use a .100 steel mid plate.
My position is that the factory plate accurately positions and registers the starter. If you look at your UltraBell, the register hole is much larger than the locating ring on the starter. That means that the only thing locating your starter is the bolts, not the outer register ring as designed. Depending on your starter, if the bolts fit real snug...and stay tight, you could be OK.( either way...plate or no plate)
Some day I want to finish up my project of a nice laser cut .100 steel mid plate, with the factory starter hole accurately located in the plate.
As others have noted, you can choose to go either way, but the addition of the factory plate can also be a good "spacer" to give you some adjustment room for your converter, if you need it.
I even have a badly cut-up factory plate that I use as a spacer for just this purpose, depending on which engine/trans/converter is in the car.
I hope this helps.
Thanks,
Keith
www.KeithFulpMotorsports.com

David when you used the 1/2" adapter plate in the dragster what flywheel and starter did you use? ..putting together a 4 link s&w car and it has the bbf/glide 1/2 " adapter mid plate...thanks Brian w.

Thanks for the input guys. I plan on doing a mock up on the floor before it goes in the car.

birdracer wrote:David when you used the 1/2" adapter plate in the dragster what flywheel and starter did you use? ..putting together a 4 link s&w car and it has the bbf/glide 1/2 " adapter mid plate...thanks Brian w.

I used an ATI flexplate along with their crank to converter adapter and spacers. The spacers go between the converter legs and flexplate and eliminate any converter spacing issues. Just use the adapter and spacers and order a converter set up for NO midplate.

I had used two starters. No fitment issues with either one. Both were mini starters. CVR #5048M and Powermaster #9405. Still have the CVR. It will go on the T-bird.
I know Phillip Oakley uses the same 1/2" adapter plate on his dragsters with a Ford mini starter with no issues. Don't know what flexplate he uses though.

One thing i know that the ford pmgr doesnt have the engagement reach that other do. The nippendenso stye starters can be adjusted there reach by using longer plunger in sol.