thinking about changing to alky ....

give me some advice ...

The only disadvantage is you will probably change your oil a little more often until you get a feel for running it and learn the tricks. Don't start it just to hear it run, etc . Get it warm 190 -200 before you shut it down after a race and pull the breathers / evac hoses and let the moisture evaporate.

You will also need to drain the system if its going to set for a while 2 months or so because it is corrosive .

What kind of fuel pump/reg will I have to get? also what size alky carb am i looking for?

I hear ProComp makes some bad ass pumps..................

richter69 wrote:I hear ProComp makes some bad ass pumps..................

Now that made me laugh, thanks

Your UGLY ass turd in your avatar make me laugh.. THANKS!
No need to fuck up every thread! people like you two really mess this site up!

P.S No need to hate on someone faster...

Which Turd was that statement meant for

Jeremiah wrote:your UGLY ass car in your avatar make me laugh.. THANKS!


P.S No need to hate on someone faster...

I think all you have is a set of procomps and a dream. Atleast I worked 2 jobs for 3 years to earn my car and parts. You don't even have a car to display

Where do you race at, I'll come take you for pinks punk:twisted:

And if you would pull your head out of your ass and look around a bit you would find the answer to your question. Also while your applying vasoline to get it out of there don't forget your procomp plyers. Until we see actual time slips and et increments you are going to keep getting Beat down at every turn. I'm on a hair fuse cause one of my close friends is on what could be his death bed.

As for alky, you need to convert your carb and fuel system to an alcohol rated system. It will burn cooler and allow more compression. Major problem would be moisture and the fact that warmup takes a bit longer.

I know all that already... What size carb, fuel line, Pump size? Sorry to hear about your buddy man..

OH and this is MY car I built. Cage, Paint, Motor ETC....

When we ran alky about 10 years ago or so we had to run an oil heater just to keep temp and had to install the ole ball valve just to get temp in the motor. We used a little craftsman vacuum to help dry the crankcase and help save the oil. I didn't run a radiator at all on the car and we still had a hard time keeping temp in the motor. We were running a, at the time, large cubic inch BBC in a tube chassis slowmaro.

GOOD
More torque
cooler running
consistent
cheaper (when your setup)

BAD
corrosive
change oil more
burns clear in day light (We always ran a sticker on the window indicating we ran alky so the safety crew knew)

Now we have proof it exists. Please accept my appologies. Why not post in the proven builds section?
Just a thought.

I forgot about the clear burning part.

Thanks man.. Ill do some digging to figure out what size carb etc I need to run..

Jeremiah wrote:Thanks man.. Ill do some digging to figure out what size carb etc I need to run..

Forgive me for not knowing this info but.......
size motor
rpm
estimated hp
trans
gear
tire

I see you already have a Dominator carb. Just convert it to alky.

Or you can leave the entire setup gas and come race with us.

sorry about that........
466 dome pistons
no more then 7k
around 550 or so
3.73 gear
29.5/ 10.5 tire
And Ill be spraying the car but I know that ill have to run that off of race gas.

a 1050 dominator would be fine.

what fuel pump/lines do you have now?

Its 3/8 or 1/2 inch aluminum fuel line. with an areomotive ss series pump and a big holly 12-704 fuel pressure reg.

Do you have any ambitions of building more NA horsepower later?

Not real sure.. But prob not.. If I do anything I wanted to build a turbo motor but not really anytime soon..

If there is a possibility of going turbo I would go ahead and buy a pump like the Weldon 2035 which will work with a carb or efi. I would upgrade to a -10 or so line and you could use your current line as a return.

ok. So I have to run a return setup? Whats it going to take to change my carb form gas to alky?

If you are going to a larger pump you probably want a return type setup. You can buy kits to do it or send it to any reputable carb shop and they can do the conversion. It is not that hard. Just basically bigger fuel passages and some other small tuning changes. It's cheaper than going to a new carb.

Cool.. Thanks for all your help so far man... will my reg work? what kind of fuel pressure etc.? also will there be any timing difference?

Man that bugs killing me! I love it.. Got my dog to attack it a moment ago now that I'm home
IIRC isn't there off the shelf conversion kits out there?

You need to send the carb to APD, Rupert, or the like........the metering blocks and boosters are different.....along with a bunch of other stuff...........1050 deal seems to work the best.......you'll spend around 600 bucks to get a dommy made over.

Lose all the alum line, any bare alum celll etc needs to be anodized. Deadhead will work, but you need a big regualtor, that and the pump will not last long....been there done that.guy I sold the pump to still having issues.

Jon,When you say the pumps don't last long,do you mean because of the alky being so corrosive or because you need a pump that is setup for alky