Quick question.

What should I torque my rod bolts to? With moly?

Are they stock bolts or ARPs?

Bill

ARP's on stock car rods.

Do you not have the ARP spec sheet? I would call them or look at their website.

I'll have to email the guy on what bolts they are, i don't think I have the ARP sheet with me.

This is something I've seen strong opinions go both ways... I'd like to see Lem & other assembly hErOs chime in..

Torque or stretch gauge measurement?

ARP says for the pn 155-6003, which is a stock rod 8740 bolt, .0063" stretch or 50 foot pounds.

No stretch gauge. How am I supposed to check the angle though? Use a degree wheel or what?

Nevs, are those 50 lbs at a certain angle or just in general?

Thanks for helping.

Nevs wrote:ARP says for the pn 155-6003, which is a stock rod 8740 bolt, .0063" stretch or 50 foot pounds.

Yes, I realize the two are available... I was asking the pros which tightening method they prefer, or maybe a combination of both?!?? Some guys prefer the stretch measurement exclusively, some the opposite...

bb429power wrote:No stretch gauge. How am I supposed to check the angle though? Use a degree wheel or what?

Nevs, are those 50 lbs at a certain angle or just in general?

Thanks for helping.

Straight torque wrench reading. General consensus is the stretch gauge is the best method. However, torque wrenches were used for years and seemed to do just fine in general purpose overhauls. No doubt the stretch gauge is probably the most precise. Unless this is a high end build ( and it obviously isn't given the stock rods), I'm sure a torque wrench will suffice.

I'm no expert engine builder, but I've overhauled many, and the regular old torque wrench method seemed plenty sufficient. There is no rocket science needed here.

If you tighten a ARP rod bolt w/motor oil 63 ft.lbs. you should be fine imo.

i'd want to know too if i were you.i went through this a few weeks ago with wsb oliver bolts.i had to get a tq/angle tool for them and go 42*from 55lbs i think it was and didnt realy like that kinda tq on a 7/16 bolt but i'm no HeRo.

so have the rod journal straight down (or pointing up since the engine is turned over) and tighten to 50 without moly? I know I need moly for my head bolts, but I'm not sure about the rods.

As Austin Powers says, moly moly moly moly moly!!!

While I'm at it, the oil sending unit is in the right place isn't it? It was in that spot when I got it but I want to double check that its supposed to be there. I read that that spot is for the dry sump oil return.

bb429power wrote:While I'm at it, the oil sending unit is in the right place isn't it? It was in that spot when I got it but I want to double check that its supposed to be there. I read that that spot is for the dry sump oil return.

The 50 ft pounds is with ARP lube on the threads.
Who told you or where did you read that the spot in question is a dry sump return? It's not,for one thing it's not nearly large enough and how would you return oil to a pressurized gallery? I'd throw that book away.

it's not a dry sump return but it is the place for a sender/gauge.

http://jonkaaseracingengines.com/products/blocks/eliminator-blocks/64-eliminator-blocks.html

Its under HP Sportsman, I read it wrong though. It says its an oil "feed". I thought I had it in the right place but my dad kept pushing the issue about it being in the front (like the windsors and all). Thanks for the help guys, I'll finish the others tomorrow, then the oil pump will go on. That's about all I can do unless I put the cam and chain on.