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Mounting/supporting big turbos

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Post  96Mustang460cid August 26th 2009, 3:35 pm

Basically, any turbo BBF build is going to use one or two T6 flange turbos. Because of the weight of these turbos, you have to pay special attention to the mounting of the turbo to prevent fatigue in your hot side tubing.

So, how have you guys mounted your 80 lb turbo? How has it worked out for you? What would you change? Pictures are always helpful too!

Have a good day!
Michael
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Post  Injected65 August 26th 2009, 8:07 pm

Not the best picture, but I have a plate that is bolted to the end of the head with a strap that goes down and attaches to the turbo flange. It helps support the weight of the big turbo nicely. My buddy has a similar setup but with a triangulated CM tube arrangement instead of the single strap. I have a feeling his is a bit more sturdy, but I haven't had any issues though.

Mounting/supporting big turbos P1010009_003


Chris
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Post  billandlori August 26th 2009, 11:37 pm

I guess it is best to always mount the turbo to the engine, not the chassis?

Are flex pipes always needed?

How does oil drain back on the low mount ones?

Any other mounting requirements??

Bill
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Post  96Mustang460cid August 27th 2009, 7:51 am

billandlori wrote:I guess it is best to always mount the turbo to the engine, not the chassis?

Are flex pipes always needed?

How does oil drain back on the low mount ones?

Any other mounting requirements??

Bill

Mounting a turbo to the frame is OK when you have solid motor mounts or motor plates. Some guys do it with OEM mounts, but a longer flex is required to allow plenty of movement.

When I was researching the need for flex pipes, I found lots of people running without them. In the end, though, it felt it was a small expense for the added durability. When using a flex pipe, be sure to remove the lining from it (if it has one). I read about those linings breaking down because of the heat and messing up turbos.

Normally, the oil drains from the turbo with gravity. As long as it has a downhill slope, you're fine. If it's not adequate, you'll quickly find out because it'll start smoking very quickly. It does this because the oil is backing up and going through the seals. Now, there are people who mount the turbo below the oil level in the oil pan. They have to use a small reservoir and pump the oil back into the oil pan. Also, some will use a completely separate oil system for the turbo (like rear mount turbos).

My build is basically starting from scratch so I have the ability to move a lot of stuff around. People who are putting a turbo on an existing setup don't normally have this freedom. Here is the methodology I'm taking:

1) Permanently mount engine
2) Mount turbo is a spot that looks like it'll leave room for everything else.
3) Fab down pipe to the firewall (at a minimum)
4) Fab accessory brackets (P/S, Alt, & A/C)
5) Fab headers, x-over, ect.
6) Fab cold side.

I am approaching it this way because the down pipe is the most difficult part to 'snake' through the engine bay. Then, the A/C, P/S, and alt require the most room (after the down pipe) and have the least amount of 'movability'. ... basically, the headers can easily snake through different areas of the engine bay. Therefore, I'll do them last Smile.

Have a good day!
Michael
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Post  billandlori August 27th 2009, 9:00 am

Thanks Michael,

That is a sensible build order. I guess the flex pipes take alot of stress off the headers as they go through hot/cold cycles.

Bill
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Post  moparman September 2nd 2009, 11:36 pm

Stainless exhaust will also last a lot longer than regular mild steel. I'm speaking of the exhaust to the turbos not after...
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