stock suspsion guys

Any one running team z set or wolfe ect i need to get some info if you can. Bar size and heim joints thanks Jason

We were running wolfe stuff. But when we went to the 9 inch we had to make our own parts. We narrowed the rear pretty good and changed the mounting points on the rear end so that we could have an adjustable 4 link. The points on the chassis are still the same. I can tell you we have the biggest rod ends we could find using all 3/4" HD grade 8 bolts. Had to drill the car out to do it, but it was worth it. As far as length, ours is unique due to the rear end. I think the tubing we used is 1.75 or 1.625. Can't remember.

Thank you for the info looking for anti roll bar size to. Thanks jason

Team Z and Wolfe both make some nice parts. This last time around I went with Racecraft on my car. I really liked their billet upper control arms versus the welded style that everyone else was selling. Its probably overkill, but that seems to be my theme with the car anyways. Their lowers were very nice as well. Couldn't tell you the tube size off the top of my head, but they were a step up from the UPR's that were taken off.

http://www.racecraft.com/proddetail.php?prod=327436

Chris

Currently we are running a single Wolfe anti roll bar. I think it's a 1.625 bar. We really probably should step up, but it works so why mess with it.

thank you guys for the info.

I've started using some of The Southern Outlaw Shop parts on customers cars. They have some very high quality components without breaking the bank. Here is a link. http://www.thesouthernoutlawshop.com/ They don't have all of their new products on their website. I'm a dealer for them if you would like pricing.

Thanks Derek for the info but i like to build all my stuff. all ready working on a anti rollbar that removable.

All the kits i see you have to weld it in and your bone what if you bend the bar/tube or you have replace the bushing end. i dont know to much time on my hands . Im also look at the uppers to see if i can do some thing with it to just ideals.

I was just throwing some stuff out there. It looks as though you are on the right track to making a removable ARB. Keep us informed. It looks good thus far.

Jason,
For your Anti-Roll setup, check out custum torsien bars at some VW shops. You can get just about any length available. Plus tensioners are only about $20 bucks.
I beleive thats all builders have used for torsien fronts for years. Check out www.chassisshop.com The catalog is FREE. Also for specs, check out S&W.Its free also. There is so much more info you can get out of a catalog then theese B.S. websites.

Regards
Al

If your talking about the old dragster torsion bar front assembly, they are not the same as an anti-roll. They both might look similar, but they are not the same device and/or design.

Both MW & Vanishing Point sell a monster anti-roll made from very large OD tubing for as rigid an anti-roll as you can get. The only problem is finding the room under a Fox body to mount one.

Generally a factory frame layout dictates the use of an anti-roll with out board bearings/bushings. And a back-half or full chassis generally needs an anti-roll with an in board bearing/ bushing layout.

I have a mustang with the TRZ anti Roll Bar and one with a UPR anti roll bar they both work but the UPR is solid Chrome Molly heavy about 40 lbs and the TRZ is hollow and weighs maybey 5 pounds i think the UPR is Stronger, But both of my cars work good if i had a choice to buy again i would buy the UPR

here is a pic of my deal

TeamZ for me, infact my entire chassis is being built by TeamZ. http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/bill_mcnab.html