Triangulated 4-link

windsor wrote:
I like the fact that the Martz 4-link geometry etc is already factored in,

It looks like a nice piece but I don't understand how this is possible. Every car is different depending on chassis mounting points, weight, where the weight is etc, so I don't understand how you can have all this geometry factored in unless they designed it specifically for your year and make of car. I would start with the caltracs and see how you like it. I had most of the parts and made my own for about $100.

jasonf wrote:

windsor wrote:
I like the fact that the Martz 4-link geometry etc is already factored in,

It looks like a nice piece but I don't understand how this is possible. Every car is different depending on chassis mounting points, weight, where the weight is etc, so I don't understand how you can have all this geometry factored in unless they designed it specifically for your year and make of car. I would start with the caltracs and see how you like it. I had most of the parts and made my own for about $100.

Well, with the Martz kit, it is specifically designed for classic Mustangs (which are nearly identical to Falcons). So, kind of an assumption on my part, but I have read about a few installs and they seem to like it a-ok. Uses the factory leaf spring mounting holes as initial crossmember install. Of course, some careful measuring would still have to be done.

I think you're right though, I still may go with the crites/caltracs.

I am not sure how much different the measurements are between the Mustang and the Falcon but I can tell you the watts link for a 65 mustang is no where near gonna fit in my 64 Falcon. I figured it would be close but no way in hell. LOL. I will just fab my own when the time comes I guess. The lower links appear to be the same length I believe they are a different distance apart. I guess my point is if you order a mustang setup I hope you have some good fabricating skills cuz it ain't gonna fit.

On another note, I was thinking about your goals and I have to admit that maybe the triangulated 4 link might actually be the best solution for your car. The triangulated four link doesn't bind till you start turning corners. In a straight line they work pretty well as indicated by all the fox body drag cars. You indicated you were after straight line performance with good street manors.

Where you at anyways windsor?

windsor wrote:Primarily, I want to keep it simple and am leaning towards the crites/caltracs. It's definitely the cheapest way to go.

The cheapest would be to just move the leafsprings inside, notch & box the rear frame rail for more tire clearence (where they start to get furter apart), and use some good slapper bars. My Maverick used to have a similar low cost setup years ago back when Duane (from the other site) owned it. There was the possibility of increased body roll from the leafsprings being mounted closer together, but it didn't really seem to be a problem. But it worked well enough for what it was to run around 6.90's (if I remember correctly) with a missmatched parts junk pile 289-302 with low cylinder pressure numbers, a C-6, and a little nitrous.