steeet 460 build (daily driver)

majik455 wrote:wot ok i now owe the c6 that was mounted to the 460 off the 78 lincoln :-).

anything i need to do to ID it or mod it?

I want to go thru it but have never worked on a transmission and saw you can "rollerize" one?

Peace and Love Ron

Here's a like to where you can get a DVD on how to rebuild your c6: http://www.badshoeproductions.com/
Possible place for parts: http://www.broaderperformance.com/ others on here may know of others.

majik455 wrote:WOOT i pulled my 460 short block today !!!!!! LOL poor thing has a RICHWAY oil filter for those of us who remember RICHWAY dept stores :-). missing alot of smaller things now timing cover,dizzy,intake,water pump,all pulleys and bolts. SO anyone have any extras for sell speak up. I am going rpm airgap for the intake but havent purchased one yet.

THANKS for all your help up to now and ill need more later as i build.

Peace and Love Ron

An "air gap" intake manifold won't fit under the Lincoln hoodline.

A hood-scoop on a Lincoln ... now that would be a novelty.

rmcomprandy wrote:
A hood-scoop on a Lincoln ... now that would be a novelty.

Maybe a scoop from a Cougar Eliminator?

My car is a 79 cougar the donor car was the 78 lincoln and I emailed badshoe to get some info on the dvd,s . thank you so much for the suggestions so far :-). On the heads issue I have the plain jane d3ve a2a heads and read on here either smaller port OR smaller valves where good for down low torque? I really want to get the ffrp scj heads I think lem sells but think that may be to much for a street daily driver , will they pull from down deep ? I am not looking to go over 5500-6500 rpm really at all.
heres the trans

hmmmm pics do not like me.... woot retry worked
[img][/img]

AND is this a limited slip carrier? I dont know what they look like but it has the little gears in side it and it acted like a ls on the lincoln?
I dont know the visual differences between a ls and a open carrier.[img][/img]

rmcomprandy wrote:

majik455 wrote:WOOT i pulled my 460 short block today !!!!!! LOL poor thing has a RICHWAY oil filter for those of us who remember RICHWAY dept stores :-). missing alot of smaller things now timing cover,dizzy,intake,water pump,all pulleys and bolts. SO anyone have any extras for sell speak up. I am going rpm airgap for the intake but havent purchased one yet.

THANKS for all your help up to now and ill need more later as i build.

Peace and Love Ron

An "air gap" intake manifold won't fit under the Lincoln hoodline.

A hood-scoop on a Lincoln ... now that would be a novelty.

A Stealth fits under the hood of a 78 Cougar. Is the AirGap taller or shorter?

TorinoGT wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:
A hood-scoop on a Lincoln ... now that would be a novelty.

Maybe a scoop from a Cougar Eliminator?

Hey that's what I am going to do!

majik455 wrote:AND is this a limited slip carrier? I dont know what they look like but it has the little gears in side it and it acted like a ls on the lincoln?
I dont know the visual differences between a ls and a open carrier.[img][/img]

Regardless of what it is, that you never stated what the rear came from. If it's a Continental, the 9 3/8" will NOT fit in the 9" housing. Look elsewhere.

I have 2 just like that. the one in the pic is the 78 lincoln one and my other entire 9 inch housing and 3rd member is from a 70 4 door montego...Anyone need a free hood for one?

my other looks the same so i was wondering if its a ls and just needs clutches. or a open. I am to new to some of these things to know by looking and cannot find a defenant pic online to verify either.

My cougar right rear turns all the time and left ONLY in reverse so I have no ideas t=whats in it but i drive it daily and cannot afford to tear it down to look but if i build a good only i can afford the down time on a weekend to swap it

Thanks Again for the answers and help.

There's a tag on the rear on one of the 3rd member bolts, if it has an L on it its L/S.
Look on here and see what you have, click on the page's at bottom of first page till you find your's.

http://www.fordification.com/tech/rearends_ford01.htm

thats a great site but I dont have the tag for the 2 i have and the one i do have is for the lincoln and it is a EGC-k...and thats not listed.

Whats the difference between l and nl and l4?????? locker and non locker and no clue what a l4 is...

Here, go about 2/3s down the page and it show's how to ID a L/S
http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

awesome thats what i needed to see. the opens i have are ls WOOT

Did this project die? I kinda wanted to see another BBF equipped 77-79.

Oh no not dead, 460 block was bored at Kaase,s but i was told I need lifters, mains and cam bored/ honed due to napa bead blasting the block clean and causing burrs. I left upset due to that kills my budget as i cannot afford another 300.00 + cam bearing install for 100.00 more right now. I have another 460 I am looking at that hopefully I can drop in till I can afford to build the one i have right i guess. Unless you know a way I can do what needs done and can tell me. I am 20 years away from the game and things have changed and i feel stupid and hurt. It use to be vat them, bore them, cam bearing and slap it together. My c6 is in lots of pieces and I am going to order the rebuild kit so it will be fine when I pair it with the 460 (one last worry).

I have seen lifter hone tools would that work?
How can i check my cam line and hone it?
same question above but with mains?
I am going to have to do this myself if possible.

Peace and Love Ron



Also I purchased a 3.89 ring and pinion gear for the rear to get it moving quicker, but have as of yet to install the gears.


Thank you so much for asking though, it is appreciated.

Sorry, I humbly admit that any solutions to your problem are over my head.

Any particular reason you went with 3.89s? Then again I'm not sure what your plans are with the car.

psquare75 wrote:Mild 460 build, 9.3:1 compression. Forged pistons, head studs, C9VE heads.Crane 260HMV cam 216/228 .518/.513 Weiand Stealth, no spacer, Holley 750 (3310 with elec choke added), Generic aftermarket fuel pump, Comp roller tip rockers. Mallory Unilite with a Petronix conversion. OEM big block air cleaner setup (functioning flapper). Mild built C6 (Wide ratio kit installed), 2.47:1 rear gear, 28 spline open on 225 70 15s. Hooker 1 7/8" Super Comps to 3" Catcos, 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbos and 2.5" tails.

The Crane 260 is an old grind (previous owner built this car about 14 years ago). The Crane idles stock or near stock. I used the car for work deliveries and probably averaged 200 miles a week. It WAS thirsty. The wide ratio kit helped (probably made the rear gears feel closer to 2.70s or so in first), but off the line it's still a slug. I have a 3.0:1 trak lok I plan to install that I think will GREATLY improve all around performance. Right now, from zero to 60 the car is 'tame', but 65+ the nose will lift, the car gently buries you in the seat, and it just pulls.

If I were building a 100% daily driver that I wanted to be able to hit cruise nights with, I'd opt for the gray car build, but I'd change
the intake to something less radical
do a numerically higher gear (3.0 or so and keep the wide ratio).
Add an X pipe.

Wow, great honest answer as to how a mild build will react in a heavy car!!
Our 77 Lincoln Mark V motor build is very similar. (We have slightly less compression & performer intake) The performance is just like you described….. It's a nice driver, but definitely tame with the same 10-13mpg.
Our car loved to cruise with 3.0 gears and 29" tall tires! It just felt right. But it was still pretty tame in the 0-40mph range
We currently have 3.50 gears and to be honest, the trade off of losing our great highway cruising wasn't worth it. 70mph is now 3000rpm.
The lower gears made it feel a little stronger, but not a night and day difference by any means.
I have a set of 3.25's to try. I'm hoping to get back some of the highway cruising while keeping some of the lower MPH grunt.

I believe the gears didn't help much because the car can't breath at the higher rpm range that the gears put the motor in.
I didn't do any real porting to the heads and I think that is a VERY common mistake. Just knocking down the thermactor bump and valve seat cutter ridges does not equal porting in my book. You really have to work the short turn radius to get any noticeable gain, at least in my very limited opinion.
I hope to test the that theory in the spring, although the quality of my amateur short turn porting work is questionable…. But, this is all for fun/curiosity anyway. If I wanted simplicity and dead reliability, I would have left the performer intake, 625cfm carb, pre72 Tchain & 204/214 cam on the stock long block and drove it forever.

rmcomprandy wrote:A hood-scoop on a Lincoln ... now that would be a novelty.

Interesting you should say that…. A buddy of ours is finishing up a 2 3/4" full length cowl hood for our 77 Mark V. Will it look "right"? We'll see in a couple of months….. Its more for function than looks. The hood line is so low that the engine bay gets smoking hot while sitting in traffic jams on Power Tour. We're hoping a decent vent will help. If it doesn't, I'll build a cold air intake and see what that does.

Sorry for the hyjack to the OP!! I hope you get your current block problems sorted out.

andymarkv wrote:Wow, great honest answer as to how a mild build will react in a heavy car!!
Our 77 Lincoln Mark V motor build is very similar. (We have slightly less compression & performer intake) The performance is just like you described….. It's a nice driver, but definitely tame with the same 10-13mpg.
Our car loved to cruise with 3.0 gears and 29" tall tires! It just felt right. But it was still pretty tame in the 0-40mph range
We currently have 3.50 gears and to be honest, the trade off of losing our great highway cruising wasn't worth it. 70mph is now 3000rpm.
The lower gears made it feel a little stronger, but not a night and day difference by any means.
I have a set of 3.25's to try. I'm hoping to get back some of the highway cruising while keeping some of the lower MPH grunt.

I believe the gears didn't help much because the car can't breath at the higher rpm range that the gears put the motor in.
I didn't do any real porting to the heads and I think that is a VERY common mistake. Just knocking down the thermactor bump and valve seat cutter ridges does not equal porting in my book. You really have to work the short turn radius to get any noticeable gain, at least in my very limited opinion.
I hope to test the that theory in the spring, although the quality of my amateur short turn porting work is questionable…. But, this is all for fun/curiosity anyway. If I wanted simplicity and dead reliability, I would have left the performer intake, 625cfm carb, pre72 Tchain & 204/214 cam on the stock long block and drove it forever.

Other than the bumps, no port work was done. The engine runs too nice for my to want to really dig into (read that as spend $) on it. It's a backup daily driver and cruiser and serves that purpose well. I have a 3.00 trak lok to install in that car, and I suspect I will be really pleased with it. Even my white stroker car, If cash were no object, I'd do a 3.25, wide ratio trans, and a Gear Vendors, but money is something I am not made of.

As long as a person is 100% honest with themselves on the goals of the car, there should be no disappointments. I've made that mistake in the past.

I tend to lean towards "daily driveable cruiser" and "why the heck is a car this size so quick?". It doesn't do much for the drag racing crowd, but if I wanted to go fast, I'd take said engine, install in Fairmont, and go fast without changing anything else. *I'M* happy. I've seen what it takes to make a midsized go 11s and I don't have the cash to do it right, or the cash for the fuel to go with it.

Andy, you need to see a picture of psquare75's truck....

(hijack over)