New Ride got my first Power Stroke

So Sunday I did a even trade with my 2002 Ranger and got a 1997 F250 XLT Crew Cab, short bed 4x4. 7.3 PSD, 4.10 gears, beastly brush guard and bumper 285/75r16 tires. So far the truck is awesome. Only points that need attention are the steering and needs tires soon. Recent starter, batteries, and vacuum pump.

I just wish it was red and not white. Gosh white is BORING.

Im not sure about the headache rack. The bar across the middle of the bed is going to get in the way.

I just got a truck just like it................. It looks like a twin to yours, I will try to post some pictures of it tomorrow night.

IDT-572 wrote:I just got a truck just like it................. It looks like a twin to yours, I will try to post some pictures of it tomorrow night.

Thought you already had a truck?

scottke wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:I just got a truck just like it................. It looks like a twin to yours, I will try to post some pictures of it tomorrow night.

Thought you already had a truck?

he had a "truck", now he's got a "real truck" lol.

Just wait til he gets the injectors and custom chip in it.............smoke be rollin'

needs some stacks..............

Hell, I'm half affraid of chipping my 04 6.0. It might puke out a head gasket! LOL I shouldn't say that, it's been a great truck so far.

it could be worse, could be a 6.4....they take a shit with no added help............

Im mulling the idea of a chip. I did toss the muffler and cat today. When I get the money saved up I am redoing the exhaust from the turbo back. 3" down pipe into 3" to the back of the truck. After that a new intake.

The Red truck is probably gone.................... I really liked the red truck, but this 97 is a very clean and tight truck.

And yes it will be getting injectors and a custom tuner soon.

IDT-572 wrote:The Red truck is probably gone.................... I really liked the red truck, but this 97 is a very clean and tight truck.

And yes it will be getting injectors and a custom tuner soon.

get a HeRo tune!

I had to put a transmission in mine when I got it, I added the 3 inch down pipe at that time. It already had a 5 inch pipe all the way from the down pipe to out the rear behind the rear tire in the stock location. Also has a 6 inch folgers fart can for a tip................ (It may have to go)

cool40 wrote:

IDT-572 wrote:The Red truck is probably gone.................... I really liked the red truck, but this 97 is a very clean and tight truck.

And yes it will be getting injectors and a custom tuner soon.

get a HeRo tune!

I;m gonna..................

OldRedFord wrote:Im mulling the idea of a chip. I did toss the muffler and cat today. When I get the money saved up I am redoing the exhaust from the turbo back. 3" down pipe into 3" to the back of the truck. After that a new intake.

get ready for a chip gimme a hollar.................


supporting mods that are a must..............intake/airfilter (no K&N) the Tymar set up or similar homemade conversion is one of the best. You need to get rid of the stock flat downpipe and get a 3" deal, get rid of the cat, muffler not so bad on those but a complete system is best.

Get a pyrometer, boost, and if an auto a trans temp.

If its an auto you need a custom accumulator body if you do a chip............otherwise the tranny wont last long (I build these too).

Bigger tranny cooler a must, just bypass the factory radiator cooler, they are prone to bloackage and besides not cooling very well if plugges it will starve the rear and middle portion of the tranny and kill it.

richter69 wrote:

OldRedFord wrote:Im mulling the idea of a chip. I did toss the muffler and cat today. When I get the money saved up I am redoing the exhaust from the turbo back. 3" down pipe into 3" to the back of the truck. After that a new intake.

get ready for a chip gimme a hollar.................


supporting mods that are a must..............intake/airfilter (no K&N) the Tymar set up or similar homemade conversion is one of the best. You need to get rid of the stock flat downpipe and get a 3" deal, get rid of the cat, muffler not so bad on those but a complete system is best.

Get a pyrometer, boost, and if an auto a trans temp.

If its an auto you need a custom accumulator body if you do a chip............otherwise the tranny wont last long (I build these too).

Bigger tranny cooler a must, just bypass the factory radiator cooler, they are prone to bloackage and besides not cooling very well if plugges it will starve the rear and middle portion of the tranny and kill it.

I will be doing a cold air intake,
Already has a 3 inch down and 5 inch exhaust all the way out back. (no muffler)
5 speed trans ZF with a 4.14:1 first gear
I have a boost gauge and egt (pyrometer)
As soon as the injectors go in I will call you on the chip or tuner.

Soory about the high jack of your thread.

i like these trucks.they'll be like the 67-72 trucks some day.this body style with p/s should be a keeper.my wrecker is a 96 and runs pritty good for over 10'000#.

Tim keep us posted on what you do to it. I think you will love the truck. I have driven an 97 one ton at work that I bought new, It.s been a good truck and has had very little work done to it. I just traded it off for a new F-450 6.7 power stroke.

Tim you got your old ford up and running yet.

Jim

The F100 runs but isn't drivable still.


On the F250...what would be causing the torque converter to stay locked all the time?

How often is all the time? Are we talking about pushing you into the intersection at a stop light or just not getting as much slip as you are used to?
When driving you can give the brake pedal a tap (after letting off the gas) and the trans. should let go and let the engine idle down.

Other '97 F250 notes: watch the bearings on the idler pulley (one that doesn't move) and tensioner pulley. And change the fuel filter more than you think you should!

the1969fordguyinky wrote:How often is all the time? Are we talking about pushing you into the intersection at a stop light or just not getting as much slip as you are used to?
When driving you can give the brake pedal a tap (after letting off the gas) and the trans. should let go and let the engine idle down.

Other '97 F250 notes: watch the bearings on the idler pulley (one that doesn't move) and tensioner pulley. And change the fuel filter more than you think you should!

I think its just me not being used to the truck yet. Haven't had the truck a week.

Noticed the other day the drivers side front brake rotor had some cracks in it. So I decided to replace both rotors, and pads, and front bearings while I am in there.

Dissasembly went ok. Now my problem is that the wheel studs are pressed through the brake rotor its self and then through the hub for the wheel. I also have a feeling the hub has frozen its self up inside the brake disc over time. How do I separate the two? I don't have a shop press.

Also there is a little lock washer that clips half way around the axle shaft and then slides into a tab in the hub nut. One of them I bent all to hell. Having trouble finding a replacement.

Brake rotor and hub are one piece, looks like a trip to the local picnpull is in your future.

Id rather buy a new one if I can. Its a Dana 50 axle if that helps out the post.

I thought the 3/4 and 1 ton hub/rotor split apart.
Here ya go
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Rotor-Front/1997-Ford-F250-3-4-ton-P-U-4WD/_/N-j9ktvZ8knrq?counter=1&itemIdentifier=113361_172993_2708_12812

The ones I've worked on and that is several, the rotor and hub are seperate pieces. You need to get the studs pushed out in a press, and then the rotor and hub seperated, (much easier after the studs are out), then the studs pressed back in. A qualified machine shop can do it quite easily, then have them put the assembly in a rotor lathe and true it up while its there. If you find a new hub/rotor assembly, have it turned true before you put it on. I've seen a few new assemblies be out of true and the brake pedal surges.

Those look just like the rotors I took off my dually.