5/16 socket stuck on oil pump drive/in-car oil pan removal help?

Man the hits just keep on coming. I was all set to fire up the car after a head swap, changed the oil and figured I'd prime the pump before I set the distributor......

My 5/16 socket, which I had taped onto the extension, stuck fast to the oil pump drive...... The socket was slightly worn, but not that bad, and must have spun on the drive?

I tried to hold on to the socket and drive it off with a piece of 1/8" rod, but it won't move at all.

I assume at this point I need to pull the oil pan, drop the pump and get the drive out where I can work on it.

The car is a 77 Lincoln mark V. The oil pump drive is an ARP unit.

Any advice? Socket removal, in-car oil pan removal, in-car oil pump removal, anything would be great.
This set back has really sucked a lot of fun out of this project.....

does it turn freely with the pump shaft or is it stuck in the hole? If its just the shaft its stuck to it should move up and down a tad fairly easy.

JB weld the end of the extension...put it in the socket ...wait ten minutes move it around and slowly work it out

or even brake clean the socket and ext good and use a dab of super glue. I'd try all options before pulling pan or until you drop it in there ans can get it out............pulling pan = last resort.

inbred-jed wrote:JB weld the end of the extension...put it in the socket ...wait ten minutes move it around and slowly work it out

XXX2 JB weld that sucka and let dry for at least 24hrs. and pull it out.

ps: just put a little bit on the end of the extension, dont what it to come out the top and get on the block.or go down in the socket and weld to the shaft

res0rli9 wrote:

inbred-jed wrote:JB weld the end of the extension...put it in the socket ...wait ten minutes move it around and slowly work it out

XXX2 JB weld that sucka and let dry for at least 24hrs. and pull it out.

ps: just put a little bit on the end of the extension, dont what it to come out the top and get on the block.or go down in the socket and weld to the shaft

JB Kwik it and let it sit, it will harden in 4 minutes but you could let it site for 24 hours if you want it to cure 100%. I always wondered why my JB took so long to dry, then I realized it was the regular slow drying junk. I hope you don't have to pull the pan, been there.

I do not know the best way to resolve this issue...but...welding the socket to the extension is the way to avoid this issue. Don't ask me how I know this

Thanks guys!

The socket spins freely in the hole and the whole pump drive lifts up until you hit the retaining clip.
You can lift up a 1/2 to 5/8 inch and "set" the pump drive on top of the pump's drive slot. There is just enough clearance before the retainer clip hits
I can still see the pump drive inserted in the socket through the hole between the 1/4" drive and 5/16 sides of the socket. The distance is always the same even when I lift it up.

This was a decent MAC socket too, not just a parts store cheapy.
But it sure looks like the socket has "spun" on top of the pump drive and wedged itself on there.
Its position is so tight, I really can't do too much.....
JB welding an extension into the socket and trying to get it off sounds like its worth a shot.
I thought if I could get it to adhere well enough, maybe a small side hammer would work.

Otherwise, I just need to start yanking the pan. But I'm sure that has its own issues.
I thought there was a good one piece oil pan gasket that might make installing it on my back easier....?
Dang it!!!

Just wondering, (and this may be horrible advice) but could you take a small punch to the drive through the socket and hammer it? If you did that the worries I would have is the drive falling down in the pan.

knowing its stuck on the shaft..............put your extension on ratched on and run it in reverse, might even tap it a few times to shock it as there is not much drag on the shaft for it to work against. Once it gets worked back to the spot its supposed to be in it should come free.............if that makes sense.

richter69 wrote:knowing its stuck on the shaft..............put your extension on ratched on and run it in reverse, might even tap it a few times to shock it as there is not much drag on the shaft for it to work against. Once it gets worked back to the spot its supposed to be in it should come free.............if that makes sense.

Damn you beat me to it but that is exactly what I was going to say. When ever a socket gets stuck on any bolt you just put the ratchet in reverse and back it up. It will pop off 99% of the time. If it doesn't immediately work try a 1/4" impact driver in reverse to shake it loose.

The good news is if the socket falls off into the pan it can be retrieved with a magnet attached to a long piece of welding rod. (Even with the pan full of oil). Don't ask me how I know this. Now I always wrap the socket and extension with several wraps of duct tape. Welding would probably be a better idea though.

richter69 wrote:knowing its stuck on the shaft..............put your extension on ratched on and run it in reverse, might even tap it a few times to shock it as there is not much drag on the shaft for it to work against. Once it gets worked back to the spot its supposed to be in it should come free.............if that makes sense.

Yep, I tried that and like you said, with minimal drag it didn't do anything.....

I do see that there are "locking" 1/4" extentions. I think I'll grab one of them and JB weld it in the socket and use a small slide hammer and see if I can knock it loose.

If that doesn't work or I pop the retainer clip off, I'll need to get in the pan anyway.

an old dizzy with the gear taken off and the topside stripped where you can get a drill on it is the best tool in the world for priming an engine...............but that is beside the point.

richter69 wrote:an old dizzy with the gear taken off and the topside stripped where you can get a drill on it is the best tool in the world for priming an engine...............but that is beside the point.

x3,i got one for bb and sb.

richter69 wrote:an old dizzy with the gear taken off and the topside stripped where you can get a drill on it is the best tool in the world for priming an engine...............but that is beside the point.

No thats second best the best tool would be a oil pump primer there cheap enough and yes they have a locking 1/4'' drive the new craftsman 1/4'' extension i just got is the new style and it has a little tab you have to push to unlock it. You will have to put it against the socket and get a skinny flathead to pry up the little tab to get it in the socket but its worth a try or i would do the jb weld kwik thing just make sure you get it clean with some brakeclean first.

even better^^^^^^ oil pump that is not in the pan.............driven by a belt.............

richter69 wrote:even better^^^^^^ oil pump that is not in the pan.............driven by a belt.............

that's what I was thinking. Our fuel pump is on the back of the oil pump so when he hit the wall the other night the belt got knocked off and killed the fuel supply. No oil pressure=no fuel with that setup

richter69 wrote:even better^^^^^^ oil pump that is not in the pan.............driven by a belt.............

Yes thats the real deal

Thanks Guys for everything!!!!!!

I went to Sears and bought a nice three piece 1/4" extension set with locking tips. Then I bought adapters for my 1/2" impact.
Just hitting it clockwise wasn't enough. So I hit it in both directions six times and it pulled right out.

I put a brand new socket on and primed the pump, it came right off no problem.

Then I caught it on fire from a gas leak...... Thank God for fire extinguishers.... If you don't have one in the shop, GET ONE! I'm starting to think I'm not qualified to touch anything!!!!!
But we did get it running and everything seems OK..... We'll see.

I feel so relieved that I didn't have to pull the pan.... It was the ideas and suggestions you guys gave that helped me get through this!

Glad you got out ok.

good luck with everything else.



Keith

andymarkv wrote:
Then I caught it on fire from a gas leak...... Thank God for fire extinguishers.... If you don't have one in the shop, GET ONE! I'm starting to think I'm not qualified to touch anything!!!!!

Holy crap, lmao!

Yeah, it was a comedy of errors.... We had used thin .016 copper head gaskets and I was extremely paranoid about them leaking. We fired the car and it sounded good, but we were having some weird weather conditions. Semi warm with cold air coming in, slight drizzle and very humid. Well that makes for HUGE, and I mean HUGE clouds of steam out the exhaust. So I freaked out and shut it down. Probably super lucky that I did....
I pulled all the plugs and everything looked fine. Pulled the coil wire and grounded it to the valve cover and started doing a compression check. (all cylinders are now 175-180, from 160psi)
At some point the fuel started leaking from the carb inlet and the sparking coil wire set the fumes on fire. (the leak was a good 8-10" away from the spark) And anyone that has worked on a gas fire knows they are pretty miserable to put out. The fuel line still had pressure so it kept feeding the fire.
Two short blasts from the extinguisher put it out, but if had burned through the fuel line with the pressure behind it...it could have gotten ugly fast.

It was a new clamp on the fuel line to carb. The slot for the straight blade screw driver wasn't very deep and apparently I didn't get it tight..... I pulled on it and couldn't turn it so I thought it was tight enough.

I think things are OK now. But I'm going to be watching the whole car it like a hawk and won't be comfortable until I get some run time on it.

At least you got the socket out, it could have been worse..... I lost the oil pump shaft deep in the oil pan of my F100 once when I was in college.. Of course it was my only car.. Of course I had an exam the next day.
("Oh? There's supposed to be a retainer?": Said after I heard ::CLINK!


Glad you didn't burn up.