Alcohol, Plugs?

First year running alky and was wondering what plugs you guys were running? Im currently running ar3934"s and I cant seem to read them. Ive been all over on jetting and the motor seems to like the 192s but would like the plug to tell the story. Any advise would be great, maybe just need to learn what to look for. Thanks, Pat....

The AR3934 should work.

meth wont dirty up a plug like gas will, so tuning by the plugs alone on a alky deal wont work.

The window is real big on meth, unless your way off one way or the other you may not see much change.

The plugs should read about the same as leaded gas. It's the fuel ring at the base of the of the porcelain that can be read.....not the nose which can get 'dirty' during warm up and part throttle driving.

How do the timeslips and the water temp relate to the jetting changes?

richter69 wrote:How do the timeslips and the water temp relate to the jetting changes?

Who are you asking?

The OP.... .

I'd use more water temp. with methanol than gas.

I've never ran Alky,but would it be safe to say that if it was Fat it would run cooler and Vice versa?

Heat gain or lack of can also depend on the cooling sydtem
used. Our carbed stuff with a small radiator will gain approx 5-10 degrees on the run. I dont even run a radiator on my injected deal, it wont gain any on the run.

You need to get a set of air bleeds and fine tune in that area also.

Cool water and hot oil makes more power in my world.
But, a few years ago a methanol 2 x 4 engine was not where it needed to be. Mike....the guy that owns and was running the dyno said thought his methanol stuff ,from years ago, ran better with more water temp than we had.
He was correct........with 25* more water temp. than the gas deal wanted the HP came up and the crank case vacuum did also [5 stage dry sump].
I am not talking about HOT.........all temps were less than 190*.

Good point Lem, I have a heater in both sides of the block and a pad on the pan, even in this heat when I get back to the pits it gets plugged in. I keep the water about 180 when we drag it up there, it will cool a bit if I get stuck in the lanes but the gas primer plus warms it up real fast if needed. With the smallblock car it has a leanout and building heat is easy to do if needed. After the burnout if will be in the 165-170 range..........seems to be a good temp for both cars. The water temp gain is during the pass, just prior to staging and crossing the stripe.

If its real fat your oil will let you know it, oil temp is a big in keeping the moisture out as is some sort of evac system, the electric smog pump deal works for this but a real belt driven pump is best IMO.

2 weeks ago my alky small block went on the dyno first pull was 633 hp

the only changes made to get it to 688 the jetting stayed the same 2 degrees more timing and some heat in the engine. made the most horsepower at 140 water degrees.

I have been using Autolite 3932s for quite some time from recomendations from this group on this forum.
In my A-Head 605 with alky injection they will last for 2 seasons with lots of runs (and were still running fine when removed). I typically replace them only when I feel bad about them being in there so long.
I just tune with EGT and never pay any attention to the appearance of the plug. Eventually the electrodes will round off..and wear out...
Keith

i like NGK,read the heat on them pritty easy.JMO

Hey thanks guys, time slips fell off when i went to 184 jets and didnt gain any thing when i ran 200 jets so i went back to the 192s. As far as water temp gain it doesn't do much but then again we only run 300' so i dont know if it would. The engine seems to like 160 to 170 deg. where as on gas it liked 180. What kind of egts u guys looking for? Also Ive noticed on acouple different cylinders the heat line on the ground strap is around the bend more then i would like it and other cyl. seem to be good, what causes this? thanks, Pat...