What do I need to do to get this thing to run 10.0's? Sorry long post.

OK, I've been playing with this combo for 2 season's now and I can't seem to squeeze anymore ET out of it. I'd like to run at least 10.0's next year without spending a ton of money. What's wrong with this combo and how can I improve it? 512 ci, flat top pistons (12:1 CR), Out of the box P-51's, Comp roller 260 and 266 @ .050", .679" and .690" lift, 4150 Victor modified for dominator but not port matched, 1050 Dominator #8896, 1/2" 4 hole spacer, 3500 lb car, C-6 rollerized with wide ratio kit, 4.11 rear, tci super street fighter converter. Best ET 10.32@130 1/4, 6.54 @105 1/8, 1.42 60 ft. I'd like to go 10.0's as cheaply as possible. I want to do some index racing next year and they don't have a 10.50 class. It's 10.0 or 11.0.

Is there any easy way to take weight out of the car? If it isn't totally gutted, I'd start there. A sawsall and some holesaws can do wonders. Just a thought. Then I'd do as many fiberglass components as my budget would allow.There are things that could be changed in the engine combo, but cheaply probably isn't part of the equation.

Yea, I agree w/Nev's. The car needs to lose weight.

Hey guys losing weight would help,but wouldn't porting the heads also help since he said they were out of the box?

Later Mark.

spray it! LOL. 60' looks pritty good,whats your converter act like. i ran one of the super street/competition version which was a 10" in my 3400# mustang and it hauled ass in low gear but wouldnt mph.i pulled it out and went back stock and ran the same,just wouldnt 60' but ran hard at the far end.my point being that the right converter could get you closer at the least.

What is your finish line rpm now...

A bigger cam might help, pretty sure those P51's will use more than what you have now.

dkp

Quickest, and cheapest, is swap that heavy c-6 for a glide, you will be in the 10.0's easy.

Mark Miller wrote:Hey guys losing weight would help,but wouldn't porting the heads also help since he said they were out of the box?

Later Mark.

That's a good thought Mark, but given the "budget" constraints, I thought removing excess weight would be simpler. "Sweat equity" so to speak. I'd also go to lexan windows if it has the stock glass, but then we are back to the budget thing again. It's sad but true, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

I haven't priced a complete port job on the P-51 heads, but I'm sure you would kill close to $1K. Given their advertised flow numbers and their as cast port job, I doubt you would get the same gains as you would on say the SCJ or TFS Streets. I'd give it more camshaft and compression if money wasn't an issue, but it is. So the cheapest is still to start cutting out anything that isn't needed.

A 'glide would be great as well, but we are back to budget. If you have a core, you still need the parts to build it and assuming you can do it yourself, it still isn't cheap. Just my opinion, obviously it's not shared universally...

personally the cam is on the way smallish side, the heads I don't see needing ported, unless he is going to up the compression and get a larger stick..... with heads that big on a smallish engine they are probably a little biggish now so lets not make it worse...With the port volume as big as it is the velocity is down, so right now a bigger stick will help more than Porting.....Now for the C-6 the best help he can get is a Frank Merkle Brake and get rid of the 2nd to 3rd flare...... Flare cost time........


JMHO
Randy

I'd lean towards more cam and a better converter matched to the more agressive camshaft. The P-51's flow well up into the mid 700's on the lift and would do better having the valves yanked open faster. My old C6 tci super street fighter converter had retarded slippage in the top. According to mph/rear gearing/tire size and rpm in the traps it was over 11%.

Put a real torque converter in it..........

I agree with Randy and Jon and 4thhorse.....More cam, more converter, and oh yea....More gear. Spool that booger up, and keep it spooled up.

QUESTIONS

what converter? stall, shift@ ? tire size/hight and what rpm do you run the car?weight w/you?

342g wrote:Quickest, and cheapest, is swap that heavy c-6 for a glide, you will be in the 10.0's easy.

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ive seen too many a car slow down after installing a glide

Pull the heads and intake and clean up the ports and get them matched, after that swap out your 1/2" spacer for a 1" 4 hole and knife edge the holes, leave them with a little texture to them because if theyre super smooth the fuel is gonna bead up on the sides. Swap the boosters in your carb over to annular boosters, youll get better a/f mixture that way. And lastly GET MORE CAM!!! The cam youve got is strangling your motor and keeping it from reaching its full potential.

for the carb spacer I would get a HVC super sucker or one of the new Jomar carb spacers they are wortha few ponies....



Randy

BOSS 429 wrote:

342g wrote:Quickest, and cheapest, is swap that heavy c-6 for a glide, you will be in the 10.0's easy.

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ive seen too many a car slow down after installing a glide

I've seen them pick up lol...........but here I dont think the glide is the answer, the 3 speed fits this application better IMO.


best way to get the et you want is to pick it up in the first half of the track, the numbers you have are not bad, but getting it to the 330 quicker is what you need to do.

Those 300 dollar summit converters are not going to do it any good, trouble is a quality unit will not be cheap.

IMHO, send your carb to Competition Carburation and have him tune it to your application, and get a converter made for your application. You asked for as cheaply as possible, but you're at a point where every tenth is going to cost you.

You be past the point of easy money. It going to cost bigs money now.

Dave

DJOHAGIN wrote:IMHO, send your carb to Competition Carburation and have him tune it to your application, and get a converter made for your application. You asked for as cheaply as possible, but you're at a point where every tenth is going to cost you.

You be past the point of easy money. It going to cost bigs money now.

Dave

I think he should be able to knock of those 3 tenths with head and intake work as well as a bit more spacer, if the work is done at a shop then it gets expensive really fast but doing it yourself can save a boatload of cash in the long run.

Wow lets see if I can answer all these in one post. I shift at 6600 and go thru the lights at 6500. It doesn't seem to pull in high gear like I think it should. The tires are 30.5" tall x 13.5 wide. I do have a 2nd-3rd flare. The 3500 lbs includes my 260 lb ass. I agree it needs to go on a diet (so do I). I footbrake it and can only hold the car to 2500 rpm at the line. The converter is supposed to stall at 3800-4000 but its tighter than that. I'm surprised it leaves as hard as it does. My best 60 ft. was the 1.42 but I think it averages more in the 1.45-1.47 range throughout the summer. I haven't checked the converter slippage. That would be an interesting calculation. Lem helped me spec the cam based on the converter and combination I had and I think it works pretty good but I agree with a converter and or a transbrake I could probably go bigger. I hope I'm not using the full potential of these heads yet. I bought them with room for expansion. I'd like to put a taller carb spacer on it but that will require a taller hood so I'm not sure its the most bang for the buck either although I could get a fiberglass hood. That would lighten it up too. I've held back on cutting up the doors and adding lexan because I could still put this back on the street easily, but I may have to get out the sawzall because that is the cheapest solution. I just hate to cut it up. Thanks for all the ideas. Keep them coming.

It's one of those ....aint nothing cheap deals . The engine could use more cam but then it'd need a different converter . more comp ratio will help...but others have said this also .

is alky a consideration?

nos will help 200hp should do it !

richter69 wrote:is alky a consideration?

I'd consider anything. Did you pick up a lot when you switched?

fastford600 wrote:nos will help 200hp should do it !

Since I primarily bracket race, I'm not sure nitrous is the answer. Just one more variable I'd rather not add. I'd prefer to get this thing to run to its full potential first.